f 



GARDENING. 



James H> Holmes. 



Price 




fe^ 50 cts. 




A MANUAL 



ON 



WINDOW GARDENING. 



FOR 



POPULAR USE 



BY 



V 

JAMES H. HOLMES. 




MONTPELIER, Vt. : 
JAMES H. HOLMES, Publisher, 
i377. 



r 



Copyright 
By JAMES H. HOLMES. 
1877. 



A II rights reserved. 



PREFACE. 



The design of this Manual is to provide a ready- 
means of assistance in the cultivation of those win- 
dow plants most commonly grown, particularly in 
winter, and to furnish an inexpensive book within 
the reach of those of the most humble means. 

To this end the information has been collected 
with much care from every reliable source, supple- 
mented by original observations of plants, and 
necessarily placed in its briefest form. 

An alphabetical arrangement, according to bo- 
tanical names, has been adopted as, all things con- 
sidered, most convenient. Most house plants are 
known by -their botanical name, yet many have 
several local or " common " names, confusing by 
their multiplicity. The thorough index completes 
the Manual as a ready reference for all. 

A descriptive list of some plants available, 
though not so valuable for the window as those 
fully treated, is added. 

Montpelier, October i$th t 1S77. 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Abutilon 27 

Achania 28 

Achimenes. : 179 

Achyranthes 30 

Agave ... 31 

Ageratum. 33 

Air Layering 19 

Air Piant (Tradgescantia) 170 

Alamanda 179 

Aloysia Citriodora 34 

Alternanthera 35 

Alyssum 36 

Amaryllis 37 

American Aloe 31 

Ampelopsis Quinquefolia 180 

Anemone 40 

Angle Worms, to destroy 24 

Anomatheca Vulgaris 180 

Aphis, to destroy. 23 

Aqueous Vapor 17 

Artilery Plant(Pilea Sepyllifolia) 184 

Arrangement of Plants 21 

Atmospheric Moisture 1 5—1 7 

Azalea 41 

Babiana 1S1 

Bay Window for Plants 20 

Begonia 44 

Belgian Daisy 47 

Bellis (Daisy). 46 

Belladonna Lily. ...... 5 49 

Bizarres (Dianthus) 81 

Bleeding Heart (Dielytra) 86 

Blue Bell (Campanula) 58 

Bottom Heat , 20 

Bouvardia. 48 

Box, Zinc-lined for plants 12 

Brompton Stocks (Mathiola). . . 119 

Browallia 48 



Page. 

Butter Cups (Ranunculus) 148 

Bulbs, Watering 14 

Cactus . 51 

Calceolaria 53 

Calla Lily (Richardia) 152 

Camellia 56 

Campanula 58 

Canterbury Bell (Campanula). . . 59 

Cape Heaths 88 

Carnation (Dianthus) 81 

Catalonian Jasmine 112 

Cedronella Cordata. 181 

Centauria 60 

Century Plant (Agave) 31 

Chamomile (Pyrethrum) 148 

Cheiranthus Chieri 60 

Chinese Bell Flower (Abutilon) 27 

Chinese Pink (Dianthus C). . .. 84 

Chinese Primrose (Primula). . . . 146 

Chrysanthemum . 62 

Cigar Plant (Cuphea) 77 

Cineraria 64 

Cissus Discolor 181 

Citrus Aurantum 65 

Citrus Lemonium 67 

Cleanliness of Plants 22 

Clerodendron Balfouri 181 

Climbing Fern 94 

Cobea Scandens 67 

Coleus 69 

Coliseum Ivy (Linaria) 116 

Convallaria ' 71 

Convolvulus 72 

Crassula 73 

Crocus 74 

Crows Foot (Ranunculus) 149 

Cuphea 76 

Cuttings, propagation by 18 



VI INDEX. 



Page. 

Cyclamen Persicum 77 

Cypress Vine (Ipomcea) 108 

Daisy (Bellis) 46 

Dames Violet (Cheiranthus 

Chieri) 61 

Damping off of Plants 18 

Daphne Odora 79 

De\vPlant( Mesembryanthemum ) 1 2 1 

Deutzia 181 

Dianthus Caryohillus 81 

Dianthus Chinensis 84 

Dielytra , 86 

Dracenas 87 

Drainage of Pots 12 

Dust, injurious. • 22 

Dusty Miller (Centauria) 60 

Dusty Miller (Cineraria) 64 

Dutchman's Breeches (Dielytra) 86 

Easter Lily (Richardia A.) 152 

East Window for Plants 20 

Elk Horn Fern 94 

English Ivy (Hedera) . ........ 97 

English Violet (Viola Odorata). 175 

Erica (Heath) 88 

Eupatorium ^90 

Ferns 91 

Ferneries 92 

Fertilizer, liquid 23 

Flakes (Dianthus) 81 

FleurdeLis (Iris).... 108 

Flowering Flag (Iris) 108 

Flower of Jove (Dianthus) 8x 

Foliage, Watering rough- leaved, 15 

Forcing the Calla 153 

" the Convallaria 71 

" the Crocus 75 

" the Hvacinth 104 

" the Rose -. . 158 

Fuchsia 95 

Fungus 18 

Furnace heat injurious 17 

Geraniums 134 

Ivy-leaved 130 

Sweet scented 138 

Zonales 135 

German Stock (Mathiola) 120 

Gill-over-the-Ground (Glechoma) 181 

Glazed Pots 11 

Glechoma Hederacea 181 

Gloxinia. 182 

Greenhouse, temp, and moisture 

of 16 

Golden Feather (Pyrethrum). . . 149 



Page. 

Ground Aphis, to destroy. 24 

Ground Ivy (Glechoma) 181 

Guano as a stimulant 25 

Gypsophila 182 

Hanging Baskets, drainage 13 

Hare Bell (Campanula) 58 

Heart's Ease (Viola Tricolor).. 177 

Heat, injurious 15 

Heaths (Erica) 88 

Hedera (English Ivy) 97 

Hedera Poetica 98 

Heliotrope. . 100 

Hen Manure 25 

Hibiscus 101 

Hoya (Wax Plant) 102 

Hyacinth s 103 

Hydrangia 106 

Ice Plant (Mesembryanthemum) 121 

Insects 23 

Aphis 23 

Mealy Bug 24 

Red Spider 24 

Scale 24 

Ipomaea 108 

Iris (Flowering Flag) 108 

Irish Ivy , 97 

Italian Ivy 98 

Ivy (Hedera Helix) 97 

Ivy, Coliseum or Kenilworth, . . 116 

Ivy German (Senecio) 165 

Ivy, Ground (Glechoma).. 181 

Ivy-leaved Geraniums 136 

Ixias no 

Jacobean Lily (Amaryllis) 39 

Jacob's Ladder (Tradescantia). . 170 

Japan Rose (Camellia). ....... 55 

Jasmine in 

Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum). . . 166 

Johnny-jump-up (Viola Tricolor) 1 77 

Jonquils (Narcissus) 128 

Kenilworth Ivy (Linaria) ..... 116 

Kit-run-about (Viola Tricolor)... 177 

Lachenalia. 113 

Lantana 113 

Lapageria Rosea 182 

Laurestinus 183 

Leaf-mold n 

Lemon Tree (Citrus L.) 67 

Lemon Verbena ( Aloysia Cit.) . . 34 

Lily of the Valley (Convalaria) . 71 

Libonia Floribunda 115 

Lime Water for Insects 25 

Linaria Cymbalaria 116 



INDEX. 



vii 



Pa 

Liquid Fertilizers 

Living Room, air of 

Loam - 

Lobelia 

Lophospernum 

Love in Idleness (Violet Tricolor) 

Lysimachia Xummularia 

Mahernia 

Management of Plants 9 

Manure , 

Mathicla (Stock) 

Maurandia 

Mealy Bug.. , A 

Melon Thistle (Cactus) 

Mesembeyanthemum 

Mignonette (Reseda Odorata). 

Mimosa (Sensitive Plant) 

Mimulus 

Money Wort (Lysimachia) 

Monkey Flower (Mimulus) 

Morning Glory (Convolvulus). . 
Mountain Daisy (Pyrethrum). . . 

Muhlenbeckia Complexa 

Mvrsiphvllum Aspagoides 

Myrtle 

Narcissus 

Nasturtium ( Tropaeolum) .... 
Neapolitan Violet (V. Odorata). 

Nerine Undulata 

Nerium Oleander 

Night Blooming Cereus. 

Nier embergia Gracillas 

Nierembergia Rivulas 

North Window Plants., 

Orange Tree (Citrus Aurantum) 

Oleander (Nerium) 

Ornithogalum Aureum 

Othonna Crassifolia 

Oxalis 

Panicum Variegata 

Pansy (Viola Tricolor).. 

Partridge Breasted Aloe 

Passirlora 

Peacock Iris 

Pelargonium or Geraniums 

Periwinkle (Vinca) 

Petunia 

Phlox Drumondii 

Picotee or Pink (Dianthus) .... 

Pilea Serpyllifolia 

Pittsosporum 

Plants, Additional List of 1 79 — 
Plants, Arrangement of 



Gfi. 

2 5 

16 

11 
117 
183 
I 77 
183 
118 
-26 

1 1 
119 
120 

24 

51 
121 
150 
122 
123 
183 
123 

72 

148 
183 
124 
125 
126 

J /i 

176 

183 
12S I 

184 
21 

128 

184 

*3* 
184 

176 
180 
132 
109 

134 
185 
140 
142 

81 
184 
184 
-184 

21 



Page. 

Plants. Atmospheric Moisture for 16 

Plants. Fertilizers for 25 

Plants. Insects on 23 

Plants. Lifting from Pots 13 

Plants. Potting 11 

Plants, Re-potting 12 

Plants, Soils for 10 

Plants, Suitable for North Win- 
dow 21 

Plants, Temperature for 15 

Plants, Watering 15 

Plants, Washing 22 

Plants, Ventilation 22 

Poinsettia Pulcherima 184 

Polianthus Tuberosa. 143 

Potato. Common (Solanum). . . . 166 

Pots and Potting Plants 11 

Primula Chinensis. ... 146 

Propagation of Plants. 17-20 

Pruning 26 

Pyrethrum (Fever Few) 148 

Ranunculus ..... ............ 149 

R.ed Spider on Plants 24 

Reseda Odorata 150 

Richardia Aetheopica (Calla) . . . 152 

Rockery of Ferns 93 

Rose. 154 

Russian Violet (V. Odorata)... 176 

Salvia (Sage) 161 

Saxifraga 163 

Scale on Plants 24 

Schizanthus 185 

Sea Pink or Sea Lavender rSo 

Sedum 164 

Seeds, Propagation by. ........ 17 

Selection of Plants 10 

Senecio Scandens (German Ivy) 165 

Sensitive Plant (Mimosa) 122 

Shade-Loving Plants 21 

Situations for Plants 20 

Smilax ( Myrsiphyllum A.). . . . 124 
Soap, Whale Oil for Insects. ... 24 

Soils, Constituents of 10 

Solanum Pseudo-Capsicum 166 

South Window for Plants 20 

Spanish Iris no 

Sparaxis ". 185 

Souirel Corn (Dielytra) 86 

Stevias .... 168 

Stimulants for Plants 25 

Stock (Mathiola) 119 

Stonecrop (Sedum).. . 164 

Strawberry Geranium 163 



viii 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Sulphur, Fumigation with 23 

Sun, necessary for Plants 20 

Sutherlandia , 185 

Swamp Honeysuckle 41 

Sweet Alyssum 38 

Sweet Orange (Citrus Aurantum ) 6 5 

Sweet Violet (V. Odorata) 175 

Temperature for Plants 15-17 

Ten Weeks Stock (Mathiola). . 120 

Thermometer, near Plants 16 

Three-Faces-under-one-hood. ... 177 
Thrift (Armenica Vulgaris). . . . 180 

Thunbergia 169 

Tongueing Plants 19 

Tradescantia 170 

Tritonia 185 

Tropaeolum 171 

Tuberose (Polianthus) 143 

Two i\tmospheres of Plants. . . , 17 
Wall Flower(CheiranthusChieri) 60 

Walking Leaf Fern 94 

Waltonian Case , 20 

Wandering Jew (Tradescantia).. 170 
Warty Alee 180 



Page. 

Washing Plants 22 

Water, evaporation of 16 

Watering Plants 14 

Wax Plant (Hoya) 102 

Whale Oil Soap for Insects. ... 24 

White Mites or Ground Aphis. . 24 

Windows, Double 16 

Window, best for Plants. ...... 20 

Wood Sorrel (Oxalis) 131 

Working Roots, injured 12 

Vallotta Lily (Amaryllis) 40 

Vapor Aqueous 17 

Vase of Centauria, etc 30 

VenusLookingGlass(Campanila) 59 

Ventilation of Plants. 22 

Verbena 172 

Verbena Mite 174 

Vick, James 106 

Vinca Major and Minor 185 

Viola Odorata. 175 

Viola Tricolor (Pansy) 176 

Zinc-lined Box for Plants 12 

Zonale Geraniums. . , . 135 



WINDOW GARDENING. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF HOUSE- 
PLANTS. 



Soil — Pots and Potting — Watering — Temperature and 
Atmospheric Moisture — Propagation — Situation and 
Sunlight — Ventilation— Cleanliness — Insects — Fer- 
tilizers — Pruning. 

So general is the desire for window plants at the 
present day that their cultivation is almost univer- 
sal, and they have become, in a measure, a popular 
necessity. 

Plant life is a never failing source of interest. It 
provides a diversion for the mind in leisure hours 
or from vexatious cares. Indeed, the mysterious 
principles of life and growth it presents, furnish 
physical and moral lessons of the most healthy 
character. 

But, while house plants have been introduced into 
almost every home, and some succeed well in their 
cultivation, many meet a greater or less degree of 

9 



IO 



SOILS. 



failure and disappointment, which might be avoided 
by observation and by availing themselves of the 
experience of others. 

The main points in rearing window plants, after 
having made a judicious selection of the best vari- 
eties of each kind, are to secure for them, as near 
as possible, the soil, temperature, degree of atmos- 
pheric moisture and the amount of light and water 
required by their natural habit. 

SOILS. 

Most plants will flourish in widely different soils 
if they have favorable atmospheric conditions as to 
moisture and temperature. Many florists have dis- 
carded the use of special soils, and pot nearly all 
their plants from the same heap of mold ; the con- 
ditions supplied by the greenhouse render the com- 
position of the earth of less importance. But when 
subject to the vicissitudes of the living-room, plants 
should have every possible advantage to be derived 
from a congenial soil. We have, therefore, given 
the soil most desirable in the treatment of each 
plant. . 

The best constituents for compost are fresh loam, 
rotted stable manure, leaf -mold and sand. Those 
who cultivate many plants should keep a barrel or 
box of each of these on hand, from which they can 
readily prepare proper material for potting or shift- 
ing as becomes necessary. On the approach of 
winter a supply should be placed in the cellar. 



SOILS — POTTING PLANTS. IT 

Loam best adapted for house-plants is to be found 
under sods that have grown a long time, as in the 
corners of old fences. Sods piled up and rotted, 
thus combining loam and decayed vegetable matter, 
make an excellent potting earth that is extensively 
used by florists. 

Stable or barn-yard manure, thoroughly rotted, 
the strength of which has not leached away by ex- 
posure to the weather, should be secured if possible, 
as a fertilizer of such plants as Roses and Carna- 
tions, which require an extra rich soil. The sweep- 
ings of paved streets, if moistened and allowed to 
rot, forms a good manure or partial soil, available 
in cities. 

Clean, light leaf-mold from the forest is almost 
indispensable for lightening soils, and furnishing a 
food that is necessary to many plants, as the Ivy 
and Calla. It is also the best covering for small 
seeds. 

Sand is also an important constituent of soil, 
rendering it friable and less liable to become packed 
or baked. 

The different ingredients should be thoroughly 
incorporated by stirring together and sifting 
through a coarse sieve — a coal-ash sieve will do. 

POTTING PLANTS. 

The light colored (soft baked), porous pots, known 
as greenhouse pots, are perhaps the best for house 
plants, if they can be set in a box of sand to pre- 



12 



POTTING PLANTS. 



vent too rapid an evaporation of moisture. But 
when they are to be surrounded on every side by 
the too often hot, dry, absorbing atmosphere of 
living-rooms, glazed pots are preferable. The glaz- 
ing prevents evaporation, and the working roots 
which form against the inner sides of the pots are 
less liable to be injured by drying. On the other 
hand, careful attention must be paid to the drainage 
of glazed pots ; if this becomes obstructed, the plant 
is in danger from too much moisture. Those who 
have not much time to devote to plants, will find a 
zinc-lined box ten or fifteen inches wide, and four 
inches deep, in which to set porous pots and surround 
them with sand, convenient. Similar boxes two 
inches deep and four inches wide may be placed 
across half way up the window, for small pots of 
young plants. 

It is important to select pots of a proper size. 
A very common mistake is made by giving flow- 
ering plants too large pots and producing a 
growth of foliage instead of flowers. Nearly all 
plants bloom more abundantly if their roots are 
somewhat restrained. Those cultivated for foliage 
should be supplied with plenty of earth, as an 
abundance of leaves is the main object. 

When it is desired that plants should continue in 
a growing condition they should be repotted with a 
little fresh earth as often as the roots become mat- 
ted against the sides of the pot, and before they 
lose their white suculent appearance from want of 



POTTING PLANTS. 



13 



nourishment. An occasional examination of the 
condition of the roots may be made without injury 
to them, if carefully done, by lifting the pot from 
the inverted plant. The operation is very simple r 
place the left hand on the earth with the stem 
between the second and third fingers, and having 
turned the plant downward, tap the edge of the 
pot on some stationary object. A slight rap is 
usually sufficient to release the ball of earth. Never 
insert a knife between the earth and pot; it is 
certain to injure the roots. 

Pots for newly rooted cuttings should not exceed 
three inches in diameter, and when filled with roots, 
they should be changed to those half an inch, or at 
most only an inch, larger. Pots should only be 
filled to within half an inch of the top, as that space 
is necessary for watering. 

In potting, the soil should be settled among the 
roots by tapping, and carefully pressed around them 
so the plant will stand firmly. Wet soil should 
never be used, as it packs and becomes hard. After 
potting water thoroughly once to settle the earth. 
The plant should then be kept rather dry until it is 
well established and commences growth. 

It is not necessary to fill the bottom of porous 
pots with broken crocks, or rubbish for drainage, ex- 
cept hanging baskets, or pots that have no outlet 
for water. 

The exhausted soil may be carefully washed from 

the roots and replaced with fresh earth and the 

2 



14 



POTTING PLANTS 



I WATERING. 



plants reset in the same pots. By this means a 
growth is produced that seems inadequate to the 
size of the pot. This method may be practised by 
those who have a limited space for plants or have 
no larger pots to shift into. 

WATERING. 

This is the chief regular attention the house 
plant demands. No general rule can supply the 
place of that observation and experience which en- 
ables those accustomed to the care of flowers, to 
readily determine the exact wants of each plant. 
As much care should be exercised not to over water, 
as to guard against excessive dryness. If the soil 
sours by being kept in a sodden state, it should be 
replaced with fresh, or the plant is ruined ; this con- 
dition of the soil is equally as fatal to the working 
roots as extreme drouth. 

When the surface of the soil appears dry and will 
readily absorb water the plant needs it. The ap- 
plication should then be sufficient to saturate the 
entire soil, not merely the surface. No more water 
should be given until the surface of the soil again 
appears dry. An exception must be made to this 
rule in the case of bulbs, when forcing for bloom, and 
all semi-aquatic plants, which will admit of water 
standing in the saucers and a soil kept constantly 
saturated. 

Plants in bloom and vigorous growth, always re- 
quire more water than when in a dormant state. 



WATERING TEMPERATURE. 



If their growth is checked from any cause, they 
should be carefully watered. Very likely, nearly all 
the roots are destroyed, and they cannot use much 
water until new ones are formed. It should be re- 
membered that plants in porous pots require more 
water than those in metal or glazed vessels, as it 
evaporates through their sides. 

Watering should be done at a regular hour and 
in the early part of the day, to provide plants ex- 
posed to a hot sun, with a plentiful supply of mois- 
ture at their roots. On cloudy or rainy clays, they 
will need less, and perhaps none at all. Plants in 
porous pots surounded by sand require water but 
two or three times a week. 

Care should be used not to wet the foliage of 
rough leaved plants, as the Begonia or Chinese 
Primrose. 

TEMPERATURE AND ATMOSPHERIC MOISTURE. 

Extremes of temperature, as permitting plants to 
get too cold at night, and too warm during the day, 
have a tendency to check their growth and induc e 
disease. Window plants are most frequently 
injured by too much heat. For a general collection 
of plants, a temperature that ranges from 60 to 70 
degrees by day, and not below 45 degrees at night, 
will produce the best growth and the greatest 
amount of flowers. A high temperature, with in- 
sufficient light and ventilation, produces spindling 
and unhealthy plants. 

Attention should be given, as far as possible, to 



l6 TEMPERATURE AND ATMOSPHERIC MOISTURE. 



the different temperatures, which different plants 
require. It must be remembered that if a Carna- 
tion and a Begonia, or a Rose and a Coleus, are 
grown side by side, one or the other must suffer 
from an improper degree of heat. Having noticed 
the temperature given for each plant under its treat- 
ment, so distribute them that the coolest locations 
at command be given to those demanding the lowest 
temperature. A thermometer should always hang 
in the vicinity of plants, out of the reach of the sun, 
that the window-gardener may be able to regulate 
the degree of heat. 

Double windows are an excellent protection 
against frost in winter, and are necessary to the 
safety of window plants. But if not possible to 
have them a paper may be pinned against the win- 
dow and the curtain drawn down to protect them 
from frost on very cold nights. The temperature 
of the green-house ranges from forty to fifty de- 
grees at night, raising to seventy degrees during 
the day. 

Temperature and atmospheric moisture are the 
main difficulties to contend with in the house. 
Every part of the greenhouse is kept in a splashy 
condition and the air is charged with moisture, 
while the atmosphere of the living-rooms of our 
houses is often hot, dry and dusty. It is impor- 
tant that moisture should be constantly supplied by 
evaporation from a vessel of water placed on the 
stove or under the grates of the registers, and by 



TEMPERATURE PROPAGATION. 



17 



sprinkling the plants both night and morning* The 
dry heat of a furnace is especially injurious to 
vegetable life. 

There are in reality two atmospheres, that of air 
and that of aqueous vapor, although we are not so 
accustomed to regard them. Water received into 
the atmosphere is not dissolved, but exists in a state 
of vapor, a distinct atmosphere, so to speak, from 
that of air, though co-existing with it, and discern- 
ible only when by reason of there being a large 
quantity and low temperature it is condensed. 
Plants cannot live for any length of time without 
this atmosphere of aqueous vapor, and they flourish 
in proportion to its existing in sufficient quantity. 

PROPAGATION OF HOUSE PLANTS. 

Nearly all window plants are increased by seeds 
or cuttings. Many species sport, or do not come 
true from seed, and the easiest, most rapid, and 
generally the best method, is to raise them from 
cuttings. 

Seedlings are most conveniently grown by sow- 
ing the seed on the surface of light, rich soil in 
shallow boxes, and covering it lightly with finely 
sifted leaf-mold. The boxes mav be two inches 
deep, filled to within half an inch of the top. Black 
leaf-mold is the best possible material in which to 
germinate seeds, as in this light substance they may 
be safely covered to a greater depth than in soil, 
and thus kept more moist. In soil they should be 



1 8 PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 

placed not much more than the thickness of their 
own diameter below the surface. Press the earth 
firmly, and water carefully to avoid washing the 
seeds out. A piece of thick flannel may be wet and 
laid over the surface of the soil, until the seeds 
germinate ; this will tend to preserve a uniform 
moisture and obviate the necessity of too frequent 
sprinkling, which must be very carefully done or 
the seeds will be washed up. The soil should be 
kept damp but not wet, with a temperature of about 
6o°. If the atmosphere is too dry, the box in 
which seeds are planted, may be set in a larger one, 
surrounded by wet moss and covered with glass. 
Tiny plants grown in the house are frequently at- 
tacked by a minute fungas, scarcely perceptible, 
soon after they are up, and " damp off," as it is 
termed. This must be guarded against by frequent- 
ly raising the glass and giving them fresh air. If 
attacked with it, they should be promptly and care- 
fully transplanted to another box of leaf-mold or 
soil, where they may be set half an inch apart. In 
a few weeks they may be transplanted to small 
pots ; this should be done before the. roots get long 
and interlaced to such an extent that they are much 
disturbed or injured in removing. 

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 

There is little difficulty in raising plants from 
cuttings, taken at a proper stage of growth and 
placed in sand, having a proper amount of moisture 



PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 



19 



and in the right temperature. Cuttings should 
always be made from plants in a vigorous state 
of growth ; when budded for flowering, is the best 
time with many plants. With few exceptions they 
should be made of the unripened wood. Those of 
most soft-wood plants should be in that condition, 
they will easily snap when bent, rather than bend 
without breaking. Such cuttings root soonest 
and make most vigorous plants. This test does 
not apply to woody plants as Roses and Azaleas. 
Cuttings should not be allowed to wilt either 
before or after placing them in sand as this im- 
pairs their vitality. The best material in which 
to start most cuttings is clear sand free from any 
foreign substance, though soil, tanbark, brick or 
charcoal dust, cocoanut fibre and many other ma- 
terials are sometimes used. Cuttings should not 
be made too long ; three or four inches will gener- 
ally answer. They will sometimes root best if cut 
a short distance above a joint, as the wood directly 
at the joint is often too hard to strike readily. 
Those cuttings that touch the sides of the box or 
pot usually root first. If cuttings of young wood 
are tongued, or partially severed from and allowed 
to remain on the parent stem a few days, they will 
root much more readily. This causes the end of 
the slip to become partially callused and less liable 
to decay than the young freshly cut wood and is 
termed " air layering." 

Perhaps the most difficult point in striking cut- 



20 PROPAGATION SITUATION AND SUNLIGHT. 

tings is the temperature. Most cuttings root more 
readily, if supplied with bottom heat and the sand 
kept at a temperature ten or fifteen degrees higher 
than the atmosphere of the room. This is easily 
accomplished in the greenhouse, where the flues 
conducting heat run under the benches, but at 
home it is difficult ; the use of a Waltonian case is 
perhaps the easiest method. Yet a larger per cent 
of cuttings will root and make fine plants simply 
placed in sand in the ordinary way. 

Some forethought is required to make cuttings 
to produce blooming plants at the desired season. 
A little timely attention will reward the gardener 
with an abundance of flowers, while neglect can 
only be remedied by patronizing the florist. 

SITUATION AND SUNLIGHT. 

A south window is the best location for most 
plants, as sunlight is requisite to bloom them suc- 
cessfully. The east window comes next ; one that 
receiyes the full rays of the morning sun. Those 
who have neither of these to devote to flowers will 
find a window taking in the afternoon sun answer 
admirably for many plants. The rays of the sun 
a few hours each day are necessary to deyelope 
flowers and produce a bright rich foliage with most 
plants, though there are quite a large class that do 
not require the direct sunlight. A bay window 
shut off from the room by glass is an admirable lo- 
cation for plants, as moisture can be retained and 



SUNLIGHT ARRANGEMENTS OF PLANTS. 21 

the hot dry atmosphere and dust of living rooms 
excluded to the infinite advantage of the occupants 
of the window, though not of the room. 

NORTH WINDOW PLANTS. 

A very satisfactory result may be reached even 
in windows from which the sun is entirely excluded 
by a judicious selection of ornamental foiliaged and 
other shade-loving plants. The following are 
names of a few plants suitable for north or other 
windows not having sunlight. Anemone, Achyr- 
anthes, Begonia Rex, Chinese Primrose, Coliseum 
Ivy (Linaria Cymbalaria), Convallaria (Lily of the 
Valley) Ferns, Lysimachia Xummularia (Mony- 
wort) Lycopodiums, Mountain of Snow and other 
Silver Leaved Geraniums, Mrs. Pollock and other 
Tricolar Geraniums, Pansies, Smilax and Violets. 

ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS. 

A symmetrical arrangement of plants tends to 
enhance their attractiveness, grouping or separating 
them to produce the best effect. Some plants of 
elegant and graceful habit appear to advantage 
alone, their individual beauty is entirely lost when 
grouped with others. A large number produce 
the finest effects in groups. Their arrangement 
affords a wide scope for exercising refined taste. 
An eye for the beautiful is necessary to place each 
plant in such a position as to hide its defects, if it 
has any, and at the same time exhibit all its attrac- 



22 



VENTILATION CLEANLlNEbS. 



tions, bringing out by effective contrasts, or har- 
monious blendings of flower and foilage, beauties 
that will be a continued feast to the eye. 

VENTILATION. 

Fresh air should be given plants daily, or when 
ever the temperature of the room rises too high. 
Especially in the mild days of winter the window 
garden should have ample ventilation. A vitiated 
atmosphere, as the unconsumed gas from lights or 
stoves, is as detrimental to plant as to human life, 
while frequent exposure to fresh air strengthens 
and enables them to endure the changes of temper^ 
ature to which they are subject. Colorless, spin- 
dling, sickly looking plants denote a want of fresh 
air and sunlight. Direct drafts of cold air should 
however be guarded against. 

CLEANLINESS. 

House plants should be protected as much as 
possible while sweeping rooms, by throwing a light 
cloth or newspaper over them ; yet with the best 
care much dust will settle on the leaves and ob- 
struct the numerous and delicate pores, which help 
to maintain the vitality of the plant. Washing in 
moderately warm water once a week will remove 
dust and assist to guard against or exterminate in- 
sects. A plant may be placed on its side in the 
kitchen sink, and washed with a sponge or soft 



CLEANLINESS INSECTS. 



23 



cloth, taking care not to wet the blossoms as water 
injures them. The foilage should be allowed to 
dry before returning to the sunshine. The stem 
and branches of all hard wood plants should be 
thoroughly washed as well as the leaves. A paint- 
ers small sash brush is a convenient instrument 
with which to wash small stems and leaves. 

The foilage of rough or woolly leaved plants as 
Begonia Rex and Chinese Primrose should not be 
wet, as water injures them, and especial care should 
be used to protect them from dust. 

INSECTS. 

The aphis or green fly, red spider, mealy bug 
and scale are the only dangerous insect enemies to 
plants and they should be vigilantly guarded against 
by cleanliness and good ventilation. A prompt 
attack should always be made on their first appear- 
ance. It is far more difficult to remove them after 
their number has become legion as it surely will if 
left undisturbed. 

To destroy the aphis, the most common enemy, 
place the plant, being careful that the foilage is 
dry, under a barrel, and fumigate with tobacco not 
so dry that it will blaze by burning it on a shovel, 
letting the plant remain in the smoke fifteen min- 
utes, after which wash or syringe thoroughly. 
Heliotropes, Lantanas, Salvias and some other 
plants with downy foilage will not bear fumigation 
without injury to the leaves. From such plants 



24 



INSECTS. 



the aphis may be removed by brushing them off 
with a feather and washing the plant in warm water 
to kill the eggs. 

The red spider which infests plants only when 
the atmosphere is hot and dry, may be effectually 
disposed of by repeatedly washing the plant in 
soap suds and keeping the atmosphere properly 
moist. This insect is a tiny mite, scarcely discerni- 
ble to the naked eye, with a blood-red body and 
light red feet, but is a destructive enemy. Very 
slight fumes of sulphur will also destroy this pest. 

The mealy bug is similar in appearance to the 
scale, except that it is covered with a white downy 
substance while the latter is smooth and brown. 
Whale oil soap is its aversion and a weak mixture 
in proportion of one pound to five gallons of water 
destroys them. 

The scale like the mealy bug infests the bark 
and leaves and feeds on the sap of the plant. Few 
remedies except detaching them by hand are effec- 
tual. A very little alcohol applied with a broom 
splint or camels hair brush, is said, to kill this in- 
sect. 

White mites sometimes called ground aphis oc- 
casionally appear in the soil in pots. They are 
destroyed with difficulty, and if possible, it is best 
to wash the infested soil from the roots and replace 
it with fresh earth. 

Should angle worms be troublesome they may 



INSECTS FERTILIZING. 2 5 

be driven away by lime-water, which will also in- 
vigorate the plant. 

FERTILIZING. 

Stimulants such as guano, ammonia, camphor, 
etc., should be very little used except it is desired 
to force plants without regard to their subsequent 
value. Many plants will grow more freely if occa- 
sionally given a small quantity of liquid fertilizer, 
made in proportion of half-a-peck of well rotted 
stable manure to ten gallons of water, well stirred 
and allowed to settle, using only the clear liquid. 
Some plants, as Coleus and Camillias, will not en- 
dure its use. For the Ivy, Violet and some others, 
water leached from leaf-mould or decayed wood is 
most suitable as a fertilizer. 

Guano when used should be in proportion of a 
teaspoonful to a quart of water. Hen manure may 
take the place of guano, and is a powerful agent to 
force bloom. A teaspoonful of aqua ammonia 
added to a gallon of water is a safe and valuable 
stimulant. All fertilizers should be used with cau- 
tion and if the soil is rich and the plant growing 
and blooming well, it will not be necessary to use 
them at all. When the soil is fresh it will not be 
safe to use the fertilizer oftener than at intervals of 
two weeks ; but later after the richness of the soil 
is exhausted it may be given once a week, always 
using care to keep the plant well watered for a day 
or two after the application ; if the plant becomes 

> 3 



26 



FERTILIZING PRUNING. 



dry and exposed to the hot sun, it is in great danger 
of being fatally burned. 

No liquid fertilizer should ever be applied to a 
plant until it has formed working roots and is in a 
growing state. 

PRUNING. 

The symmetry of many plants depends upon the 
care and taste exercised by the gardener in pinch- 
ing or pruning the shoots at the proper time. Most 
plants need pinching when the shoots are young 
to make them branch and form a compact growth ; 
others require to be thinned out. All ill-shaped 
branches or those which grow out of place should 
be carefully cut off. After pruning the wood of 
plants from which the sap excudes, the cut part 
may be seared with a hot iron or the flow stopped 
by applying earth to the wound, 

Many plants, as Fuchsias and Heliotropes, may 
be grown in any shape to suit the fancy by careiul 
pruning and training. 

It is usually best to prune away the old wood, 
as new branches appear. Suckers, or branches 
which spring from the base of the stalk should be 
removed. 



POPULAR WINDOW PLANTS AND THEIR 
TREATMENT. 



ABUTILON. 

(FLOWERING MAPLE.) 

Abutilon, an ancient name of a plant analagous 
to marsh-mallow, is now given to the well-known 
Flowering Maple or Chinese Bell Flower, a native 
of Brazil, Chili and New Holland. They are green- 
house ever-green shrubs of easy culture, free 
growing, attaining from two to six feet in height, 
and bearing a profusion of pendulous, bell-shaped 
flowers of various shades of white, straw, orange, 
rose, scarlet and crimson. The flowers of many 
varieties are exquisitely veined with contrasting 
colors, and the foliage of some is mottled with a 
bright golden yellow. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL CARE. 

A soil suitable is light sandy loam, not too rich, 
as they will grow tall so rapidly as to lack the side 
branches which are necessary to a symmetrical 
shrub. 

They require a good supply of water, and pre- 
fer a cool, moist atmosphere, as they will not 
bloom in a hot, close room. 

27 



28 



ABUTILON — ACHANIA. 



Thev should have good ventilation, but not 
exposure to cold drafts. 

Prune freely in the spring and root the cuttings 
in wet sand to get new plants, which is important, 
as the old ones soon outgrow their quarters. In 
some of the newer varieties the tall straggling 
habit of the old is overcome and they bloom abun- 
dantly when quite small. 

VARIETIES. 
Abutilon Album, pure white. 

A. Boule de A T iege, white flowers, a new variety, of compact 
growth, and an abundant bloomer. All the old white sorts have 
been coarse growing. 

A. Darwiniiy entirely distinct, the flowers a deep orange scarlet, 
veined with pink, opening like a parasol, making it unlike all other 
sorts of Abutilons The flowers are thrown out beyond the foli- 
age ; an abundant winter blooming variety. 

A. Due de Malakoff, variegated dark green leaves irregularly 
marked and shaded with bright yellow, retaining its variegations 
through the hottest and dryest weather. 

A. Marmaratum, a beautiful hybrid, producing white flowers 
veined with rose. 

A. Mesopoiamlcum, scarlet calyx, yellow petals. 

A. Santaua, flower bells of a large size, and of dark brownish 
crimson, veined with orange ; the darkest sort cultivated. 

A. Striatum, an almost constant bloomer, bearing a profusion of 
pendulous golden flowers, veined with brown. 

A. Thorn sonii, variegated leaves, mosaiced with yellow. 



ACHANIA. 

This plant receives its name from the Greek, 
signifying not gaping, as the flowers never expand. 



ACHANIA. 



29 



It is a native of Mexico, South America and the 
West Indies ; was introduced to house cultivation 
in 1 710. The Achania Malvaviscus is a shrubby 
plant, bearing at every season — for it is never out 
of bloom — scarlet blossoms which are succeeded by 
an ornamental white fruit. The foliage, flower and 
berries combine to make it desirable for house cul- 
ture, though it seems to have been overlooked in 
the great variety of plants our florists offer us of 
later years. It is allied to the Hibiscus. 

SOIL, WATER, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

Two parts loam and one of leaf-mold, with a 
slight admixture of sand is a suitable soil. 

Water regularly, but only when the surface of 
the soil indicates the necessity. 

Cuttings, root readily in sand protected by 
glass. They should be taken off as near the stem 
of the plant as possible, not being so apt to root 
when severed at the middle of the shoot, and 
none of the leaves should be removed or shortened 
above the sand. 

The plant should be taken in hand when young 
and trimmed to a symmetrical shrub. Grown in 
the form of a pyramid or cone, it best show T s the 
flower and fruit to advantage. It should receive all 
the sunlight possible, and be frequently turned 
that all sides may be equally vigorous. 

It is not subject to the attacks of insects. 

A. Malvaviscus Arbor eus leaves green, heart-shaped and sharply- 
pointed. Auxiliary scarlet flowers, very beautiful. 



30 



ACHYRANTHES. 



ACHYRANTHES. 

The name achyranthes from achuron* chaff, and 
anthos, a flower, is in allusion to the chaffy nature 
of the floral leaves. . They are cultivated solely for 
the beauty of their foliage, being otherwise unin- 
teresting. But their rich crimson or claret-colored 
leaves mingling or contrasting with other plants, 
render them so desirable that no collection should 
be without an Achyranthes Lindenii with its 
rich claret foliage, almost equal to flowers, espe- 
cially in hanging baskets or windows where the sun 
shines through the leaves. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

They grow well in common garden soil, need a 
good supply of water, with good drainage, and 
require very little care, thriving in the living room 
temperature of from 50 to 75 degrees. 

They root easily in water, and may be kept 
growing in vases all winter if given fresh water 
once a week. A few of their branches mingled 
with Tradescantia, and cuttings of Centaurea, (Dusty 
Miller), make a collection of rare beauty for grow- 
ing in a vase of water. 

They may be set into the earth through the sum- 
mer, as they endure the heat admirably, keeping 
their bright hues till frost appears, when they 
should be potted for the window garden. 

If troubled with the aphis, as they are very likely 



ACHYRANTHES AGAVE. 



31 



to be, fumigate repeatedly, with tobacco until the 
pests disappear. 

VARIETIES. 

Achyra?itkes Aurea Reticulata, leaves bright green, marked with 
a net-work of bright yellow. 

A. Gilsonii, an improvement on " A. Verschaffeltii " ; leaves 
carmine, stems a rich shade of pink. 

A. Lindenii, deep blood red, changing to crimson, leaves lan- 
ceolate. 

A. Lindenii Aurea Reticulata, willow-shaped leaves, netted 
with yellow, bright carmine mid-rib and stems. 



AGAVE. 

[CENTURY PLANT.) 

Agave, a word altered from aganos, admirable, is 
the very appropriate name for the stately American 
Aloe, a plant indigenous to a large area in the 
United States, Mexico, and South America. In 
nature its fleshy spiked leaves grow from three to 
six, and even eight feet in length, and from four to 
twelve inches wide ; it is from ten to seventy years 
in reaching maturity, when throwing up a gigantic 
flower stem, often forty feet in height, it blooms 
and perishes. It has been said to flower only once 
in a hundred years, but is now known, to flower 
sooner or later, according to the treatment it re- 
ceives ; being like the pine apple, forced forward 
by the application of bottom heat. 

It is a plant of great historical interest. The 



32 



AGAVE. 



Aztecs applied the Agave to many important uses. 
From a paste of its bruised leaves they made a 
paper more soft and beautiful than parchment. Its 
thorns and fibres were needles, thread and cord- 
age ; its fermented juice, pulque, an intoxicating 
beverage, and its leaves thatched their houses. 

Prescott says : " The Agave, in short, was meat, 
drink, clothing and writing material for the Aztecs. 
Surely never did nature enclose in so compact a 
form so many of the elements of human comfort 
and civilization." 

The less massive plants are very ornamental for 
the parlor, but require too much room for many 
households. 

SOIL, TEMPERATURE AND VARIETIES. 

The Agave will flourish in any good sandy loam, 
and endure much ill treatment as to water and 
temperature, neither drouth nor heavy frost being 
sufficient to kill them. The main care is to give 
them but a moderate supply of water, to dust and 
occasionally wash their leaves. 

They are propagated by suckers from the root. 

Agave Coccima, a massive species, deep green leaves, armed with 
red spines. 

A. Ghiesbreghtii, leaves bright green, bordered with red, and 
armed with red spines. 

A. Milleri, free growing, with long variegated leaves. 

A. Schcdigera, edges of leaves white, from which hang long 
woolly filaments. 

A. Xalapensis, leaves dark green, the edges thickly set with 
brown spikes. 

A. Xylacantha, leaves glaucous green, with broad white margin. 



AGERATUM. 



33 



AGERATUM. 

The Ageratum derives its name from the clear 
and constant color of its flowers, as they will 
remain fresh for a long time after being cut. It is 
a native of Mexico, and while an old favorite, it is 
indispensable on account of its constant blooming 
for the garden ; it is equally desirable for the 
window at all seasons of the year. The plant 
grows about fifteen inches high, and has a 
brush-like appearance. The flowers are white, 
lilac, blue and pink, and being adapted for bouquets 
are prized by florists. 

SOIL, WATERING, TEMPERATURE AND PROPAGATION. 

The proper soil is a light sandy loam. 

Care should be taken not to water excessively. 

It is not particular as to temperature. 

Cuttings root freely in soil under a glass, or they 
may be grown from seeds sown at any time of 
year in order to produce plants as desired. For 
winter blooming sow seed the latter part of August 
and pot in October, or the blossoms of earlier sown 
plants may be pinched back through the Fall and 
permitted to bloom in early winter. 

The foliage of the plants should be kept clean 
and fresh by occasional washing. 

VARIETIES. 

Ageratum Blue Tom Thumb, flowers of a beautiful light porce- 
lain blue. Height six inches. 

3 



34 



ALOYSIA CITRIODORA, 



A. Imperial Dwarf, a variety of A. Mexicanum, which it re- 
sembles. Flowers blue. 

A Mexicanum, flowers light blue. 

A. Mexicanum Variegatum, leaves variegated with creamy white ; 
flowers blue A valuable addition to variegated plants. 

A Odoratum (fragrant), dwarf compact plant, flowers pink. 

A Prince Alfred, a newer variety, habit medium, with flowers of 
a delicate lilac shade. 

A. White Tom Thumb, dwarf, growing not more than six inches 
in height, profusely covered with bluish-white flowers. 



ALOYSIA CITRIODORA. 

(LEMON VERBENA.) 

This plant was introduced from Chili in 17S4. 
and named by a Spanish botanist in compliment to 
Maria Louisa, Queen of Spain. It is a half-hardy, 
deciduous shrub and indispensable for the parlor or 
greenhouse by reason of its delicious citron-scent- 
ed foliage which is used in the construction of 
bouquets. Its flowers are of little beauty. It makes 
an attractive standard plant, having a neat habit, 
and it requires but little care. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

A soil of equal parts loam and leaf-mold, and a 
little sand is suitable. 

Give them a good supply of water when they are 
in vigorous growth, and withhold it entirely during 
the season of rest. 

They like a moist atmosphere and a temperature 
of about 65 Q by day, 45 by night. 



ALOYSIA ALTERN ANTHER A. 



35 



The Aloysia is easily propagated from cuttings, 
started in May or June, in damp sand, under glass. 
As soon as rooted, transplant to small pots and 
sink them in the open ground until October. On 
removing to the house give them a sunny window. 

Plants over a year old will drop their leaves in 
the fall, when they should be placed in a cellar 
and allowed a few weeks' rest. They may then be 
brought up, pruned if necessary, and watered 
sparingly at first, but more freely as their growth 
increases, and they should have liquid manure once 
a week. 

To make an ornamental standard plant, trim a 
single stem to the desired height, say three feet, and 
then allow it to branch out in a graceful form 



ALTERN ANTHER A. 

The name Alternanthera refers to the stamens of 
the plant, being alternately fertile and barren. 
They are natives of South America. Though prin- 
cipally used for ribbon lines or borders in the flower 
garden, their bright foliage is an acquisition to the 
window and especially for the hanging basket. 
Their leaves are beautifully tinted, blotched, mar- 
gined and variegated with the brightest colors, car- 
mine and crimson hues prevailing. They reach a 
height of about six inches. 



36 



ALTERNANTHERA ALYSSUM. 



SOIL, WATERING AND VARIETIES. 

They require a light rich soil composed of loam, 
leaf-mold and sand. 

They need plenty of water and rather a high 
temperature, with full exposure to the sun to bring 
out their colors. 

Cuttings root freely either in sand or soil 

Alternanthera Am&iia, leaves yellow, brown and rose. 

A. Latifolia, broad, smooth, autumn-tinted leaves. 

A. Magnified, leaves broad, yellow, scarlet and green. 

A. Parychoides, leaves tinted green, crimson and straw-colon 

A. Spathulata, leaves tinted carmine and green. 

A. Versicolor, leaves tinted light rose to deep crimson. 



ALYSSUM. 

The name of this plant si nifi \s to allay anger, 
and is derived from an idea the ancients entertained 
of its properties. It grows wild in many parts of 
Europe, and especially on the shores of the Medi- 
terranean. The Sweet Alyssum, as it is commonly 
called, is a modest little plant with pure white 
blossoms, whose delicate fragrance, reminds one of 
the peculiar aroma of the hay-fields. The annual 
varieties grow six inches, and the perennial a foot 
in height. It can be had in bloom at all seasons, 
by seeding or from cuttings made at the proper 
times, and its flowers are very useful in making up 
bouquets, softening the brighter colors and en- 
hancing their beauty. 



ALYSSUM AMARYLLIS. 



37 



SOIL, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL CARE. 

Alyssum is suited with any good garden soil, and 
wi'th the ordinary care as to watering and temper- 
ature. 

Alyssum is easily propagated from seeds, cut- 
tings or divisions of the roots. Plants from seeds 
sown in spring — either early under glass or later 
in the open ground — may be potted in October, and 
will bloom during the early winter. If cuttings 
are taken from these plants about the first of Sep- 
tember they will bloom later in winter and in the 
spring. It is well to arrange to have two or more 
succession of fresh plants during the year. 

The little black flea that attacks young cabbages 
and turnips is very fond of Alyssum. They may 
be destroyed by applications of tobacco water, dilute 
soft-soap, or dustings of fine ashes mixed with 
snuff. 

VARIETIES. 

Alyssum Benthamii, white, fine hardy annual. 
A. Benthamii Compactum, a compact growing variety of the 
favorite old White Sweet Alyssum. 
A. Wiersbeckii, white and yellow. 



AMARYLLIS. 

This plant has received the name of a nymph, 
celebrated by the poet Virgil. A. Belladonna was in- 
troduced from the West Indies in 171 2. Some of the 



38 



AMARYLLIS. 



vast number of varieties are from Brazil and the 
Cape of Good Hope, but there are several hundred 
hybrids, and many are of surpassing loveliness, 
with large drooping, bell-shaped, lily-like blossoms, 
varying in hues, from white to the richest crim- 
son. Some are striped with crimson or scar- 
let. Their gorgeous flowers can be produced 
nearly every month in the year. This with their 
ease of culture, makes them highly desirable for 
the window-garden. The habit and duration of 
several varieties differ widely. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

They thrive best in a soil composed of one part 
loam, one part peat, and one part well-rotted cow 
manure, with a slight mixture of sand. Pot either 
variety, except A. Purpurea, in six or eight inch 
pots, and having filled them with soil to within an 
inch of the rim, press the bulb down about half its 
diameter into it, then water thoroughly and give 
them an even moderate heat. 

Amaryllis are increased by offsets from the 
bulbs. 

The general treatment applicable to all the vari 
eties of Amaryllis, except Purpurea, is that when 
growth commences, give water freely once a week 
and liquid manure occasionally. In a few weeks 
they will develop flowers. Often the first sign of 
growth will be the flower stalks, and frequently the 
second one will appear while the first is in bloom, 



AMARYLLIS. 



39 



and be ready to succeed it. The blooming season 
lasts about two months, after which it should be 
immediately repotted and given plenty of heat and 
water, that a vigorous growth may develope the 
bulb for future flowering. When the leaves show 
symptoms of ripeness, water should be withheld 
gradually and the bulbs allowed to dry off. On 
again bringing them out to pot for flowering, soak 
for one hour in water. 

The special treatment of some of the varieties is 
as follows : — 

VARIETIES. 

Amaryllis Anlica. This is a species with large bulbs. The 
flowers are also large, the color green and scarlet, the long leaves 
of glossy green, rise from the crown of the bulb and droop slightly 
at the end Some bulbs will produce two or three strong stems 
from the side, each yielding two flowers. The bulbs of this variety 
seldom fail to bloom. Its season of rest is usually from August to 
December, when it should be sparingly watered, but unlike other 
varieties, should not be allowed to dry off. 

A. Belladonna. This is the well-known Belladonna Lily, bearing 
large pale-pink, lily-shaped flowers on a stem eighteen inches high. 
A vigorous growth of leaves, followed by entire rest is essential to 
its successful flowering. Plant in August and by the middle of 
September the flower will appear. The flowering season is followed 
by an abundance of leaves. 

A. Blanda, has an enormous bulb, flower buds four inches long, 
and flower stalk three feet high. The flowers are whitish. Treat- 
ment same as for A. Belladonna. 

A. Formisissina is the Jacobean Lily. Flowers of rich crimson 
and peculiar shape, produced in June. 

A. Johnsoni, a splendid bloomer, has been made to produce two 
crops of flowers yearly by giving them two months for blooming, 
two for growth and two for rest, though, doubtless, the better way is 
to give more time for growth. 



40 



AMARYLLIS ANEMONE. 



A. Purpurea, (Vallota), a bright purplish scarlet, of dwarf habit. 
It throws up a strong flower stem in August about eighteen inches 
high and continues in blossom a long time. The bulbs may be 
potted any time in Spring, or even as late as June. After flowering 
they may remain in the pot until the following Spring, not be al- 
lowed to wholly rest, and should be kept cool and but slightly moist. 
Repot for flowering the following season. 

A. Vitata, blooms in the house from April to June, flowers white, 
striped with rose. Requires a season of rest just before flowering. 



ANEMONE. 

Many species of this plant inhabit elevated, windy 
places ; hence the name, from anemos, the wind. It 
belongs to the Ranunculaceae family, and is found in 
almost all parts of the world, there being nearly a 
hundred varieties of it. Their foliage is beautiful, 
intensely bright green, and the flowers are of bril- 
liant and varied hues and produced in great pro- 
fusion, a constant succession of which can, by 
proper management, always be secured. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Anemone require a rich soil composed of two 
parts strong loam and one part well-rotted cow 
manure. 

They need only a moderate supply of water, and 
like a warm atmosphere, but not the noonday sun. 

They are increased either from seeds, divisions, 
or offsets from the roots, and some of the species 
ma) r be propagated from cuttings rooted in light 
loam under glass. 



ANEMONE AZALEA. 



41 



The roots keep well in a dry place for two years. 
For winter blooming select roots that have been 
out of the ground the previous season, as they pro- 
duce flowers much earlier than those which have 
been growing without rest. Pot them in four-inch 
pots, three roots that will produce different colors 
in each. Press them firmly into the soil and cover 
to the depth of half an inch. Set them in a cool, 
shaded spot until the first of October, when they 
should be given a light warm location, but must be 
protected from the sun, which destroys their bright 
colors. After blooming they can be dried off 
gradually and kept for next year's use in a dry 
place. 

VARIETIES. 

Anemone Fen Superbe, bright scarlet. 

A. Queen of the Netherlands, white and rose. 

A. Lord Nelson, violet. 

A. IS Omiment de la Nature, rich dark blue. 

A. Queen Victoria, bright scarlet. 

A. Rembrandt, carmine. 

A. Rose Surpassante, rose. 

A, Shakespeare^ beautiful blue. 



AZALEA. 

This genus of flowering shrubs take their name 
from inhabiting dry places, though some varieties 
grow in swamps, as the " Swamp Honeysuckle," 
found in all the Atlantic States. The Azalea is a 



42 



AZALEA. 



native of China and Turkey, as well as North 
America, and by cross fertilization and again cross- 
ing the hybrids with each other, florists have pro- 
duced an immense number of greenhouse varieties, 
comprising all shades and combinations of color in 
white, yellow, orange, copper, rose, crimson, brick- 
red and purple. Beautiful specimens of Rhododen- 
dron are also sometimes cultivated as Azalea, the 
dividing line between the two genera being a 
puzzle to the best botanists ; Azaleas have a com- 
pact shrubby growth, dark oblong ever-green leaves, 
and flowers growing in clusters of two or more at 
the ends of the branches, each flower of rare etherial 
beauty. Those of some varieties are fragrant. 

Azaleas are becoming very popular. Elegant 
specimens may now be seen at florists, and in win- 
dow gardens, tree-shaped, two or more feet in 
diameter, covered with hundreds of brilliant flowers, 
Twenty-five dollars are often asked by florists for 
these plants when in bloom. Mr. Sargent, in 
Brookline, Mass., recently had an Azalea Indica 
decora about five feet high and sixteen feet in cir- 
cumference, nearly thirty years old, bearing more 
than 3000 blossoms. He was offered $1000 for his 
collection of about 200 Azaleas. 

SOIL, WATERING AND PROPAGATION. 

Azaleas should have a soil of equal parts of rich 
sandy loam and leaf-mold, well mixed though not 
sifted. 



AZALEA. 



43 



Give them but a small supply of water, though 
never let the soil get dry, and be sure of good drain- 
age. The plant is subject to rottenness of the root 
if the soil becomes sodden through over-watering, 
while excessive dryness produces yellow and un- 
healthy foliage. 

Azaleas require about the same temperature as 
Camellias, or from 40 to 45 degrees at night, and 
about 65 degrees during the day. 

New plants may be propagated by cuttings, which 
should be taken off close to the parent stem, in sand 
under glass, or they may be multiplied by seeds. It 
would perhaps be as profitable for most people to 
obtain plants from the florist as to attempt their 
propagation. 

GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Azalea is a rapid growing plant and requires 
frequent shifting, as the roots become pot-bound. 
Re-pot them as often as the pots are filled with 
roots. In shifting, first see that the ball of earth 
is completely moist, and pack the new soil firmly 
around the old with a small wooden rammer. 

They need only sufficient pruning to keep them 
in o-ood form. 

o 

Most varieties bloom in May, though by keeping 
the plants in a cellar and bringing them forward at 
suitable times a succession of Azaleas may be had 
in bloom from February to June, each plant remain- 
ing in flower from three to six weeks. 



44 



AZALEA BEGONIA. 



VARIETIES. 

Azalea Amcena, flowers double purple, produced in great pro- 
fusion in mid-winter. 

A. Charles Quint, rose. 

A. Fielden, white, very early. 

A. Indica Lateritia, salmon. 

A. Iveryana, pink and white. 

A. Minerva, scarlet, profuse. 

A. Narcissiflora Plena, six weeks in bloom. 

A Punctata, variegated, fine. 

A. Punctata Omnicolor, early bloomer. 



BEGONIA. 

The Begonia is named in honor of Michael 
Begon, a Frenchman and a promoter of botany. It 
is a native of South America, West Indies and China 
and is a fine genus of plants, remarkable for the varied 
and beautiful foliage of many varieties, and the 
splendor and profusion of the flowers of others. Their 
immunity from the attacks of insects, their capacity 
to endure drought, although they prefer moisture, 
their delight in warm temperature, and their grow- 
ing well alike in partial shade or bright sun, all 
conduce to make them excellent house plants. 
While their foliage is their chief attraction the 
fringe-like flowers of some varieties, shading from 
white to scarlet, are very beautiful. 

SOIL, TEMPERATURE AND TREATMENT. 

They thrive well in a compost of two parts loam, 



BEGONIA. 



45 



two parts leaf mould and one part sand, and require 
a temperature from 65 to 70 degrees. 

A moderate supply of water and good drainage 
is necessary. Many choice Begonias are killed by 
trying to grow them in hanging baskets and pots not 
properly drained. They need plenty of light and air, 
but must not have the hot sun or be placed too near 
the window. They are beautiful in hanging 
baskets or vases, but should be kept in the shade. 

Begonias are easily propagated by cuttings placed 
in water or damp sand, but root most readily in 
water. Plants for winter blooming should be re- 
potted in June and placed in a shaded location. 
Pinch off all the flower buds and keep them trim- 
med closely till the last of August, then allow them 
to grow. If inclined to sucker, as some varieties 
are, remove by cutting them out closely, and allow 
the central branches to extend their growth. 

Begonias will not bear liquid manures, but may 
be given an application of aqua ammonia, one tea- 
spoonful in two quarts of water, once in two weeks. 

VARIETIES. 

Begonia Alba, flowers pure white, and produced very freely. 
B. Argyrostygma Veitchi, flowers pink, leaves spotted white. 
B. Carnea, flowers bright carmine. 

B. Foliosa, white, with neat drooping foliage, good for baskets. 

B. Fucha7-ides Alba, flowers pure white; finest wintei sort. 

B. Incamata, foliage dark green, beautifully marbled and 
variegated with white, many of the leaves being entirely puie white, 
and some of the younger ones tinged with pink, and occasionally a 
stem upon which all the leaves are pure white. These variegated 



4 6 



BEGONIA BELLIS. 



leaves when arranged among other plants exhibit finely. It also 

blooms as freely as the old variety. 

B. Incarnata Grandiflora, possesses several characteristics 
which place it far ahead of the old incarnata variety. It is very 
strong growing and profuse-blooming, its flowers borrue in large 
drooping clusters of bluish and rosy pink ; foliage rich dark green. 
It is one of the best varieties for cut flowers. 

B. Incarnata Variegata, a valuable variety. 

Begonia Glancophylla Scandens, a new drooping or creeping 
species, with large panicles of orange-salmon flowers. One of the 
most beautiful plants in cultivation for hanging baskets. 

Begonia Pal?7iata, a new ornamental leaved variety, peculiar for 
its palm-shaped leaves. 

B. Parnelliy leaves spotted silvery white on a dark green back- 
ground. 

Begonia Rex, foliage of immense size, tinged with crimson and 
emerald hues, varied with broad silvery zones, and snowy spots. 
The richness and quaintness of their coloring render them a pic- 
turesque ornament anywhere you can place them. They may be 
propagated by rooting part of a leaf in water or damp sand under 
glass. Florists divide a leaf so that each cutting includes a rib, 
burying the base of the cutting slightly in sand so closely together 
that the tops' lap over each other. Thus a leaf will make many 
plants. 

B. Subpelta Nigricans, forms a fine bushy plant. The leaves are 
a purplish bronze, with a metallic lustre. It is a very free-bloom- 
ing variety, flowers shaded with salmon pink, entirely different 
from any other Begonia, and forms a pleasing contrast when placed 
beside the other varieties. 



BELLIS. 

(THE DAISY.) 



The plant commonlv known as the Daisy re- 
ceived the name Bellis in allusion to its pretty 



BELLIS. 



47 



flowers. It is a native of Britain and Europe, has 
been cultivated for more than a century, and is now 
grown extensively in England. Cultivation has 
greatly increased the number of its petals and the 
brightness of its hues. It is much used for edgings 
to borders in our flower gardens, and the Belgian 
Daisy is admirably adapted to house culture, having 
tufts of green leaves and a profusion of beautiful 
flowers. 

SOIL, WATERING AND TEMPERATURE. 

A rich loam with a little mixture of sand is suit- 
able for the Bellis. 

It requires very little water through the summer, 
but the supply should be increased when it is grow- 
ing and blooming during the fall and winter. 

Keep it in a cool shady location in summer, and 
in a warm sunny place in winter. By resting the 
plant through the summer, giving it enough water 
merely to prevent its withering, and keeping it in 
the shade, its strength is reserved for growth and 
• bloom in winter, when it should be placed in a sunny 
window and given liquid manure once a week. It 
will need re-potting every spring, when the roots 
may be divided — an easy way to propagate it. It 
can also be grown from seed which may be sown in 
pots in spring and the young plants reserved for 
winter flowering. The Bellis can be transplanted 
without checking its growth even when in bloom 
if the soil is kept about the roots. 



4 8 



BROWALLIA. 



BROWALLIA. 

This plant was named by Linnaeus in honor of 
J. Browallins, Bishop of Abo.* The Browallia is 
a free flowering, half-hardy annual from South 
America. It grows about eighteen inches high. 
The stem is strong and much branched and bears 
delicate flowers, about an inch in diameter, ranging 
from dark blue to white. The Browallia has been 
generally cultivated as a flower-garden annual, but 
those who have tried it as a window plant warmly 
recommend it. A lady in Portland, Maine, who 
had a B. Elata, "a perfect mass of bloom beginning 
in September and continuously covered until late 
in January," has furnished us her method of 
treatment. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT, AND VARIETIES. 

A rich garden soil is suitable. 
It requires an abundant supply of water while in 
bloom. 

* Bishop Browallins wrote in defense of Linnaeus, who was 
severely attacked for his system which discarded the cumber- 
some Latin names of plants hitherto used, and founded classes 
upon the number of stamens and orders upon the pistils. It was 
in gratitude therefore that Linnaeus named this plant after the 
friend who supported him. They subsequently quarreled, and 
Linnaeus is said to have named the different species to commemo- 
rate the friendship and its rupture. B. Elata is said to denote the 
extent of their attachment, B. Demissa, its decrease, and B. Ali- 
enata their alienation. The account, though interesting, may be 
fanciful. 



BROWALLIA BOUVARDIA. 



49 



The Browallia is increased by seeds, which for 
house plants may be sown the first week in June 
in a flower border where there is a sunny exposure. 
When the plants are well started, weed out the 
weaker ones and water those that are to grow, 
freely. By the middle of September pot them for 
the house, and if carefully removed neither the 
leaves or flowers will suffer. Sunlight and water 
liberally supplied will keep them in perfection four 
months. The plant may then be partially cut back, 
when a new growth will start for renewed bloom- 
ing. 

Browallia Alba, free-grooving, white. 

B. Elata Coerulea, blue, sometimes attains a height of three 
feet. 



BOUVARDIA. 

The Bouvardia is named in memory of Dr. Bou- 
vard, superintendent of the Royal Paris Botanical 
Gardens, and is a native of Mexico and South 
America. They are of a shrubby character, bear- 
ing clusters of delicate and fragrant little tubular 
flowers whose colors shade from scarlet to 
white, or from pink to crimson. T\e plant pro- 
duces an abundance of flowers ana will bloom in 
the out-door garden from August to cold weather, 
and if taken in before frost, will continue to bloom 
all winter. The flower trusses sometimes measure 
1- 4 



5o 



BOUVARDIA. 



four or five inches in d ; ameter, and are excellent for 
bouquets. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

A suitable soil for Bouvardia is composed of leaf- 
mold and loam and a little sand. 

They require a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees 
during the day and not less than 55 degrees at 
night, to bloom them in perfection. 

Give them a plentiful supply of water when in 
bloom. 

Bouvardia is usually increased by root cuttings, 
as those from the wood do not strike easily. The 
roots are thickly studded with what are called ad- 
ventitious buds, and are cut half an inch or so in 
length, each piece containing a latent bud. These 
pieces are strewn on a prepared bed and covered 
with sand mixed with sifted leaf-mold. They are 
watered sparingly until growth commences, and 
when up two or three inches potted in two-inch 
pots and planted out in the open ground. These 
cuttings require a high temperature, and are gen- 
erally propagated in April. A box covered by a 
pane of window glass will answer the purpose of 
the amateur for propagating the Bouvardia. Hav- 
ing pinched back the tops of the young plants one 
or more times during the summer they should be 
taken up and potted early in September to give 
them time to establish their roots in the pots be- 
fore bringing them into the house, which must be 



BOUVARDIA CACTUS. 



5 1 



done before the least frost touches them, as they 
are very tender. Lift them carefully without 
shaking the earth from the roots, pot them firmly, 
keep shaded and water freely, at least a week before 
giving them the full sun. Or another method, 
after potting, is to cut them back unsparingly, give 
them only a little water and place them in a cellar 
a month or six weeks, then bring them up, give 
them plenty of light and heat, and water them 
freely and they will soon begin to bloom. 

VARIETIES. 

Bonvardia Bridal Wreath, blush white. 

B. Davidsonii, pure white. 

B. Hogarth, deep carmine. 

B % Hogarth Hendersojiii, French white. 

B Lady Hyslofi, recent variety ; light rose color. 

B. Leianthdy scarlet, yellow anthers. 



CACTUS 

This name was used by Theophrastus to describe 
a spiny plant. It is now commonly applied not 
only to many species that belong to other genera 
of the order Cactaceae, but frequently to unrelated 
plants that bear a similar habit. In some localities 
Cactus is known as, " Melon Thistle." These plants, 
very interesting in appearance and variable in 
structure, are natives of North and South America. 
Many varieties of Cactus produce brilliant flowers, 
some are grotesque in form ; all require less care 



52 



CACTUS. 



than almost any other plant, and they are therefore 

a general favorite for the house, flourishing in the 
dry atmosphere of our dwellings under a neglect 
fatal to other vegetation, from having the capacity 
of storing up supplies of water for their sustenance 
through long periods of drouth. 

The varieties most commonly cultivated belong 
to the families Cerens and Epiphyllum. The former 
are mostly tall-growing, and as the latter are droop- 
ing in their habit they are often grafted on their 
tall-growing relations to render them more showy. 
Cereus Speciosissimus makes the best stock to graft 
on. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Cactus thrive in a soil of two-thirds sandy loam 
to which add well rotted manure and lime rubbish 
or old plaster from walls. 

Water sparingly while in growth. Some florists 
say, withhold water while they are not growing, 
but it is doubtless better to give them a little once 
a week if the atmospher r . is dry and hot. They 
should have good drainage. Stagnant water at the 
roots causes them to decay rapidly. 

They will live in almost any temperature, but do 
best in winter at from 40 to 45 °, if they have 
plenty of light and are kept dry. 

They are increased by cuttings which root readily 
if dried a little before planting. 



CACTUS CALCEOLARIA. 



S3 



VARIETIES. 

Cereus Flagelliformis, a trailing species with deep rose-colored 
flowers. 

C. Grandiflorus, the celebrated night blooming Cereus. 

C. Mallonsonii) a hybrid variety with scarlet flowers. 

C. MonstrosuSy resembles a piece of rock-work. 

C. Senilis, with long white hairs, giving it the appearance of the 
locks of an aged person, hence its name. 

C. Speciosissimtts, the most gorgeous colored of all flowers, of a 
rich crimson, shaded with purple. 

Epiphyllum Ackermannii, bright scarlet flowers. 

E. Aiatwn, white flower. 

E. Jenkinsonii, bright rose-colored flowers, 

E. Truncation; and its varieties with scarlet, rose, violet and 
white flowers. 



CALCEOLARIA, 

This plant is named in allusion to the form of 
the corolla which resembles an ancient Roman , 
slipper. It came from Peru in 1773, in a simple 
form ; but the art of hybridization has so increased 
the varieties, that a collection is in itself, a study 
a: d a wonder. Caheolarias are both shrubby and 
herbaceous ; the latter are best adapted for house 
culture. Their heavy clusters of golden, crimson, 
maroon, or rose-colored flowers, some plain and 
others curiously mottled or flecked, all singularly 
beautiful, entitle them to a place in every collection 
of window plants. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Calceolarias thrive in a soil composed of three 
parts sandy loam and one of leaf -mold. 



54 



CALCEOLARIA. 



Water sparingly, as they are liable to damp off 
from an excess of moisture. 

The temperature should be about 50 at night 
and 6o Q to 65 by day, with good ventilation, and 
all the sun possible, keeping the plants near the 
glass. 

They are propagated from seeds or cuttings. 

Seed should be sown in August in a sunny, 
sheltered spot, and the young plants transferred to 
small pots when two inches high at the same time 
pinching out the centre shoots to produce a stocky 
growth. As soon as the little roots touch the pots, 
shift -the plants to larger ones. 

Cuttings may be placed in damp sand under 
glass, and in the sunshine, taking care not to allow 
the temperature to get too high at mid-day. Either 
remove the glass or shade from the noon-day sun; 
as they need ventilation, the first is preferable. 

Tie the plants carefully to supports. Old plants 
should be closely pruned and repotted in May, and 
left out of doors in a warm, shady location until 
September, scantily supplied with water, yet enough 
to keep them from withering. 

VARIETIES. 

Calceolaria Hybrida Grandijlora, very large fine flowers. 

C. Hybrida Superba^ fine strain, spotted and marbled in all shades 
of yellow, maroon, rose, white, and crimson, completely covered 
with masses of pocket-like flowers. 

C Hybrida Tigrina Nana 9 six or eight inches in height, and of 
very compact habit. 



CAMELLIA. 



55 



CAMELLIA. 

The Camellia belongs to the same natural order 
of plants as the Bohea and Viridis which supply 
the well-known black and green teas of commerce, 
and is named in honor of George J. Camellus, a 
Moravian Jesuit, and traveler in Asia. It is a 
native of China and Japan, from whence it was in- 
troduced into English gardens about the year 1739, 
and perseveringly experimented upon for more than 
a century before its cultivation was thoroughly un- 
derstood. 

The Camellia Japonica y or Japan Rose, is a lofty 
tree in its native country, a beautiful feature of 
oriental landscape, and a splendid flowering shrub 
with us. Its blossoms vary from white to red and 
resemble the rose, but want its fragrance. It is 
universally admired for the magnificence and dura- 
tion of its flowers and its dark-green, glossy, 
laurel-like leaves. There are more than three 
hundred varieties. The double white is the most 
valuable for winter blooming. 

Camellias are grown by florists of large cities to 
an astonishing extent, and are the most important 
of all flowers used in the construction of bouquets. 
A cool, damp atmosphere is so essential to their 
successful cultivation that they cannot be generally 
attempted in living rooms, yet the treatment of so 
important a plant cannot well be omitted from any 
work on flowers. 



56 



CAMELLIA. 



SOIL, WATERING AND TEMPERATURE. 

Camellias thrive in a soil of equal parts of sandy 
loam and leaf-mold or peat, though a rich light 
loam will answer. Any incorporation of manure, 
unless a very little and well-rotted, is positively in- 
jurious, nor will they bear any fertilizer whatever. 

When growing freely they can hardly have too 
much water, which should also be frequently ap- 
plied to the foliage with a fine sprinkler. After the 
season's growth is completed, partly withhold water 
from the soil. Provide the pots with good drain- 
age, as the roots are liable to injury by standing 
water. 

Camellias are natives of damp and shady places 
and a humid climate. The temperature for them 
ought not to exceed 45 ° by night and 65 by day. 
A winter temperature of 50 is most suitable, yet 
in summer they will endure a great degree of moist 
heat if in a shady location. The season for their 
highest temperature is in the spring after flowering 
and while making their growth. 

PROPAGATION AND GENERAL CARE. 

Camellias are increased from cuttings, which 
should be taken from the base of a leaf, or at a 
joint, as soon as the wood is ripened, and rooted in 
damp sand under glass. When they show signs of 
growth transplant to small pots. They are also 
very extensively propagated by inarching and graft- 
ing by florists. As either of these methods are not 



CAMELLIA. 



57 



likely to be practised by amateurs, a description is 
unnecessary. 

A north-eastern window is most suitable for 
them, as they are injured if exposed to the rays of 
the sun. They do well in rather small pots. Re- 
pot them before they make their growth in the 
spring. Forcing must be done in the spring while 
the plants are growing, immediately after blooming, 
when they will bear a temperature of 60 or 65 de- 
grees at night with safety. By this treatment the 
buds are made to set, and produce early flowers in 
the ensuing fall and winter. It will not do to ap- 
ply this heat at any other time. Care should be 
taken not to stimulate a second growth during the 
summer by app 1 :ng too much water to the soil. 
Camellias are hardy greenhouse plants requiring 
only to be sheltered from frost. 

The buds have an inclination to drop, caused by 
too great variations in temperature and too much 
or too little watering, when swelling, hence the im- 
portance of good drainage and an even tempera- 
ture. If the plants are shaded when in bloom the 
flowers will remain in perfection much longer. 
Give them plenty of air at all times. 

Cover the plants while sweeping. The surface 
soil should not be disturbed nor should thev re- 
ceive any liquid manures. The atmosphere should 
be supplied with moisture by the evaporation of 
water. 

They are apt to be infested by the red spider for 



58 



CAMELLIA 1 



CAMPANULA. 



which a vigilant watch must be kept, the plant lain 
upon its side and the leaves thoroughly sponged, 
syringed or showered, both as a prevention and a 
cure. 

It must be remembered that Camellias absolutely 
require a cool, moist atmosphere to grow them in 
perfection. 

The white varieties are double the value of the 
colored. 

VARIETIES. 

Bhuieyii, crimson, striped with white. 
Candadissima, late white. 
Couspersa, striped carmine. 
Double White, early. 

Downing^ deep crimson, blotched with white. 

Duchess of Orleans, pink and white, striped. 

Fimbriata, early white. 

Imbricata, crimson and white. 

Landrethii, rich rose color. 

Reine des Fleurs, a rich crimson. 

Sacco Nora, beautiful pink, blotched with rose. 

Wilderii, a scarlet crimson. 



CAMPANULA. 

The name is diminutive of Campana> a bell ; on 
account of the resemblance thereto of the corolla. 
There are more than two hundred species of Cam- 
panula, natives of the colder portions of America, 
Asia and Europe, among which are included the 
famed Blue-Bell of Scotland — the Hare-bell of 
America. The roots of one variety, C. Rapicuculus, 
are sometimes eaten. 



CAMPANULA. 



59 



The annual Campanulas become biennials by 
house culture, and are one of the finest plants for 
decoration in conservatory, greenhouse or garden. 
The perennial Campanula is the well-known Can- 
terbury-Bell. The Campanula medium, is the only 
variety really entitled to the name that is com- 
monly applied to all. Some new and valuable 
varieties have lately been produced. The double 
Campanulas are not desirable, for in them is lost 
that airy lightness and symmetry that constitute 
the greatest charm of the flower. 

Only those who have plenty of room and care for 
the striking effect that can be produced by arrang- 
ing these plants in contrast will care to introduce 
them into the house. Some of the tall varieties 
bear racemes of flowers four or five feet in height. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND VARIETIES. 

Any rich loam or garden soil is suitable for Cam- 
panulas. 

They are all easily propagated and cultivated. 
The less hardy kinds should be sown under glass 
and the small plants potted. 

Campanula Calycaiithema, calyx large, and same color as the 
corolla. 

C. Speculum Proatmdeus, a quite new and distinct race of the 
well-known Venus's Looking-glass, growing only four inches high, 
and forming compact plants about twenty inches in diameter, com- 
pletely studded with flowers which comprise all the colors and 
tints of the parent specie, and continue in bloom a much longer 
period. 



60 CENT A UREA CHEIRANTHUS CHEIRI. 



CENTAUREA. 

(DUSTY MILLER.) 

With one of these plants it is said the centaur 
Chiron cured the wound made in his foot by the 
arrow of Hercules, and hence the name. They are 
from South Europe and Asia. Most of the species 
are ornamental-foliage plants growing from six 
inches to five feet in height. One of the kinds of 
the " Dusty Miller " is a Centaurea. 

CULTIVATION AND VARIETIES. 

The Centaurea require merely a good garden 
soil and the ordinary care as to watering and tem- 
perature. They are slow to root from cuttings, 
which can be started in water, but plants are easily 
raised from seeds. 

Cautanrea Candida, a valuable plant, as a contrast with Coleus 
or Achyranthes, Leaves white, forming a neat compact bush. 

C. Clemeiiteii, a robust growing variety, forming a rounded mass 
of silvery-white leaves, deeply cut and fringed, six inches in height. 

C. Gymmcarpa, attains a diameter of two feet, forming a grace- 
ful rounded bush of silveiy gray, which contrasts admirably with 
dark foliaged plants. Its drooping, fern-like leaves are effective 
for hanging baskets. 



CHEIRANTHUS CHEIRI. 

(WALL FLOWER.) 

The Wall Flower came into cultivation three cen- 
turies ago from Southern Europe, and the word 
Cheiranthus, is derived from its Arabic name and 



t 

CHEIRANTHUS CHEIRI. 6l 

Antkos y a flower. In ancient literature the praises 
of this old-fashioned flower were often sung. It is 
called an emblem of fidelity from a fantastic tra- 
dition with which it is associated. In ancient times 
it was much worn by English ladies and thus re- 
ceived the appellation of " Dame's Violet." The 
beauty and fragrance of its flowers borne in clusters 
of bright orange, yellow, or blue, make the plant 
attractive. 

SOIL, TEMPERATURE AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Wall Flower requires a very rich soil com- 
posed of loam, leaf -mold and well-rotted manure. 
If grown in poor soil the flowers will become single. 

It should have a temperature from 6o° to 70 , 
with a moderate supply of water, 

It is propagated from seeds or cuttings. Plants 
from seeds do not bloom till the second year in the 
garden : but if potted the first of September, and 
brought in-doors they will blossom the following 
March or April. 

Cuttings taken in June from plants which are 
blooming in the garden may be rooted in sandy 
loam, and will make plants for blooming the next 
winter. As soon as they begin to grow, transplant 
into small pots. 

VARIETIES. 

Belvoir Castle, dwarf, campact variety. Very large bright yellow 
flowers. 

Double- Branching, ye] low. 
Double- Dwarf blue. 



t)2 



CHRYSANTHEMUM. 



CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

This plant received its name from the Greek words 
meaning gold and flower, the prevailing color being 
yellow. It is a native of China and Japan and the 
emblem of royalty of the present sovereign of the 
latter country, its form or color being imprinted on 
his flag and all goods manufactured for his exclusive 
use. The genus embraces numerous varieties of 
great beauty, but the Japanese, the China and the 
Pompone are most commonly cultivated. It grows 
from one to three feet in height, yet the flowers of 
the hybrids obtain the enormous size of five inches, 
and in rare instances have been eight inches in 
diameter. The Dwarf or Pompone varieties are 
most suitable for the window. 

The Chrysanthemum has a special value as a 
house plant, since it flowers in great profusion in 
early winter, w T hen but few plants are in bloom. 
The fine form and brilliant color of the flowers 
which remain in perfection for weeks render them 
highly desirable. Few plants have such an extend- 
ed range of colors, crimson, orange, yellow, pink, 
white, carmine and purple, blended in every con- 
ceivable shade 

SOTT., PROPAGATION AND GENERAL CARE. 

A good soil for the Chrysanthemum is a mixture 
of loam, sand and well-rotted manure. 

They require a moderate supply of water, with a 
temperature ranging from 45 ° at night to 70 by 



CHRYSANTHEMUM. 



63 



day. They are quite hardy ; will endure a slight 
frost without injury. 

The Chrysanthemum is easily increased from 
cuttings of the young shoots taken early in the 
spring, rooted in damp sand, and may be planted 
out in the open ground in May. For winter bloom- 
ing they should be frequently topped through the 
summer to induce a bushy growth, and the flower 
buds pinched off till the first of October. If pro- 
vided with large sized pots, placed in a cool, shady 
location for a few days, and then removed to a sunny 
window, they will yield a profusion of flowers for 
two months or more. After blooming they should 
be dried off and set in a cellar until spring, then 
brought forward, and again supplied with water. 
New shoots, which may be used as cuttings to sup- 
ply plants for the succeeding fall and winter, will 
rapidly appear. 

They are also propagated from seeds sown early 
in the spring, and the young plants treated in the 
same manner as cuttings. 

VARIETIES. 

Acton, golden yellow. Golden Aurora, bright yellow. 

Atala, rosy lilac. Iris, white, tipped with yellow. 

Bottle Blanche, white, globe-shaped. La Brazier, deep brown. 

Bottle de Niege, white, yellow centre. Mad. De Soulangis, pure rose. 

Bouquet Blanc, white. Mignonette, deep purple. 

Can-robert, beautiful yellow. Rosabella, carmine and white. 

Chameleon, pink, white and orange. Sinbad, bronze purple. 

Countess de Mojis, pale rose. Sunset, carmine. 



6 4 



CINERARIA. 



CINERARIA. 

This plant derives its name from Cineres, ashes, 
referring to the soft white down which covers the 
surface of the leaves. Some varieties of Cineraria 
are much admired for the richness and diversity in 
color of their flowers, which are produced in great 
abundance. Others are cultivated for the beauty 
and fragrance of their foliage. Some of the latter 
varieties are called "Dusty Millers," a name they 
share with the Centaurea. Their ease of culture, 
immunity from insects and striking effect renders 
them desirable for house plants. The dwarf varie- 
ties are an improvement upon the older sorts. 

SOIL, WATERING AND PROPAGATION. 

Cineraria requires a light sandy loam and but a 
moderate supply of water. 

It needs a warm location, but not the noonday 
sun, doing best in west or south-west windows. 

It is propagated by seed, by cuttings, and by 
divisions of the roots. The first method is prefer- 
able as cuttings root slowly and are somewhat un- 
certain, though they may be rooted in water or 
damp sand. Seed sown in sandy soil in May will 
make fine blooming plants in January. The little 
plants should be potted when two inches high, in 
small pots, and as the roots fill them change them 
to those of a larger size. 



CINERARIA CITRUS AURANTIUM. 



65 



VARIETIES. 

Cineraria Acanthifolia and Asplenaefola, beautiful white foliaged 
plants, a little in the style of C. Maratima, but with wider and longer 
leaves, hence more effective, dwarf habit. 

C Hybrida, this is a Winter and Spring flowering species, hy- 
brids of which are among the most gorgeous of green-house plants. 
The colors range through all shades of blue, violet, crimson, pink 
maroon and white. 

C Maratima, a white foliaged plant, known as " Dusty Miller." 



CITRUS AURANTIUM. 

(SWEET ORANGE TREE 

The genus Citrus, said to have its name from 
the town Citron in Judea, is native of tropical coun- 
tries, and embraces the lemon and orange. These 
trees, beautiful in form, with shining-evergreen 
foliage, oderiferous flowers and fragrant fruit, were 
much cultivated years ago though now rarely seen. 

The finest variety for house cultivation is the 
dwarf Mandarin or China Orange. The dwarf Ota- 
heite is more commonly grown, but neither its 
flowers or fruit are equal to those of the Mandarin. 

Oranges require more than a year to ripen, and 
remain on two years. The tree is thus in perpetual 
fruitage and exhibits blossoms, green and ripe fruit 
at the same time. A medium sized tree is said to 
have borne, at once 20,000 oranges. 

The treatment of the orange and lemon plant is 
identical. 5 



66 



CITRUS AURANTIUM. 



SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Citrus require a soil of equal parts loam, 
leaf-mold and well-rotted manure. 

A plentiful supply of water, with good drainage, 
is necessary when the plant is growing, but it should 
be given sparingly while resting. 

They like rather a cool atmosphere though they 
will not bear the least frost, and should have plenty 
of light, but not the hot sun, except when the fruit 
is ripening. The full noonday sun injures the 
foliage. 

Oranges are usually grown from seed and when a 
year or two old grafted or budded with a fine variety. 

They should be pruned closely every five or six 
years, cutting off the shoots several inches. They 
will not need re-potting oftener than this, if they 
flourish well. When re-potted the earth should be 
well shaken from the roots, and the smallest fibres 
and mouldy roots cut back, then kept in the shade 
for three weeks and watered sparingly, after which 
they may be removed to a partially sunny location 
and the supply of water gradually increased as 
growth advances. A violent wind disfigures the 
foliage, therefore keep them indoors until the young 
growth hardens. 

Apply liquid manure once in two weeks or 
oftener when growing. 

They are liable to be infested with slugs and 
mealy bugs. The remedy is frequent and thorough 
spongings with soap-suds. 



CITRUS LIMONIUM COBEA SCANDENS. 6/ 

CITRUS LIMONIUM. 

(LEMON TREE.) 

The blossoms of the Lemon Tree are not as large 
as those of the Orange nor as pure white, the under- 
side of the petals being tinged with purple. The 
fruit ripens irregularly and falls when ripe. As an 
instance of successful house cultivation of this plant 
a gentleman in Reading, Pa., grew one that in 1876 
bore 23 lemons, ten by twelve inches in circumfer- 
ence, and weighing more than one pound each. In 
1877 the tree was nine feet high, had 30 lemons of 
the same size. The seedling of a common lemon 
was budded with a large variety. The tree stands 
during the warm season in the yard, is in a half 
barrel, and each spring and fall part of the earth 
is freshened and mulched with dried cow-manure. 

For treatment of the Lemon Tree see that of the 
Orange — Citrus Aurantium. 



COBEA SCANDENS. 

This vine is named in honor of B. Cobo, a 
Spanish priest and botanist, who first cultivated it 
in Mexico, where he found it growing in great lux- 
uriance and beauty. It is an old favorite on account 
of its ample size, rapid growth, fine foliage and 
large, bell-shaped flowers. It thrives with little 
trouble, in the hot air of living-rooms, and will 
gracefully drape or festoon windows, mirrors or pic- 



68 



COBEA SCANDENS. 



tures — its tendrils cling to anything within their 
reach. The flowers are about two inches long, at 
first of a greenish hue, changing to a rich bluish- 
purple, and last a week or more. A new variety, 
Cobea Scandens Variegata, is the most suitable for 
house cultivation. 

SOIL, WATERING AND PROPAGATION. 

The Cobea requires a rich soil. Two parts loam, 
one of leaf-mold, one of well rotted manure, with 
a little sand, is suitable. 

Plenty of water, with good drainage, is essential. 
If allowed to get dry it will wither. 

It likes a high temperature 55° to 70 , and the 
sunlight. 

The Cobea is easily increased by cuttings rooted 
in damp sand and with more difficulty from seeds. 
These should be planted in a hot-bed, in March or 
April, or in pots or a shallow box, protected by 
glass. Moisten the soil well. Set the seed edge 
down and cover closely with the glass. Unless the 
earth becomes very dry do not water until the 
plants appear, and when two inches high transfer 
them to small pots. 

The roots of the Cobea must have room ; there- 
fore give the mature plants a large pot. During the 
summer it may be removed to the porch or bedded 
out until fall, when it should be well pruned back 
and again placed in a sunny window where it will 
soon commence a new and rapid growth. 



COBEA SCANDENS COLEUS. 



6 9 



Cobeas planted two feet apart out-doors will 
make a close and beautiful screen. A plant taken 
up in the fall, set out in a box fifteen inches in 
diameter by twelve inches deep and the summer's 
growth cut back, will make a luxuriant winter vine. 



COLEUS. 

This name is from the Greek word meaning a 
sheath ; referring to the manner in which the 
stamens are united. The Coleus was first offered 
for sale in this country in 1869. The varied and 
brilliant colors of its leaves makes it a valuable ac- 
quisition to the list of ornamental-leaved plants. 
When grown in perfection few flowers are more 
effective than its foliage for house or garden deco- 
ration, Florists are constantly increasing the 
varieties, each with new combinations of colors. 

To cultivate the Coleus successfully a moist and 
uniformly warm atmosphere must be provided. 
They are, however, easily propagated and grow so 
rapidly that the loss of a plant is readily replaced. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

A rich sandy loam is suitable for the Coleus. 

They want a moderate supply of water but no 
fertilizer whatever. It is sure to injure if not de- 
stroy them. 

A temperature of not less than 6o° nor more 
tharu75° is most desirable. They are very tender, 



70 



COLEUS. 



will not bear the least chill and prefer a sunny 
location. 

The Coleus is increased by seeds or cuttings. 
The latter root very rapidly in water and should be 
potted as soon as the roots are half an inch long. 

It is best to raise new plants each year for the 
house as they grow quickly and the old ones are 
generally coarse and unfit for the window. Pinch 
off the tops frequently to force a. -growth of side- 
branches or they will soon display an undue amount 
of leafless stems. Being very tender they should 
not be set in the open border until the season is 
well advanced. 

The Coleus is not subject to the attack of insects, 
a strong recommendation in their favor. 

VARIETIES. 

Albert Victor, centre purplish red, broad yellow margin. 

Aurea Marginata, rich velvet crimson with yellow margin. 

Batiseii, deep chocolate crimson, leaves deeply serrated. 

Brunette, velvet maroon, splashed green. 

Canary, bright yellow. 

Chameleon, purple, rose and green, novel. 

Compte de Circonrt, bronzy red, with blotches of carmine. 

Eclat, bronzy crimson, golden edge. 

Excellent, deep shade of maroon, netted with light green. 
Frou-Frou, changeable- yellowish green, centre blotched with 
maroon. 

Gigantic, rich purplish maroon, yellow edge. 
Hamlet, purplish maroon. 

Mcrrimac, lemon -colored with large bronze blotches. 
Mondani, bronzy crimson, narrow yellow margin. 
No?iesnch, deep shade of crimson, yellow edge. 
Rcfulgens, very dark maroon. 



COLEUS CONVALARIA. 



Rival, dark claret, crimson, yellow edge. 

Shah, base of leaf rich violet crimson, upper half golden yellow. 
Verschafeltii, rich velvet crimson. 



CON V ALL ARIA. 

( LILY OF THE VALLEY. ) 

The botanical as well as the common name of 
this plant is in allusion to the situation where some 
of the species grow. The Convallaria is stemless, 
with bright, green foliage and has a raceme of tiny, 
bell-shaped flowers, nodding and fragrant. It is 
hardy and will thrive in almost any shady nook or 
corner. of the garden where most other plants would 
not. The fashion in cities for the flower of the 
Lily of the Valley, produced by winter forcing, has 
recently so increased that the roots are exten- 
sively imported and the supply unequal to the de- 
mand. 

PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

They are increased by divisions of the roots. 

The Lily of the Valley blooms in the Spring out 
of doors, but may be forced to flower in the house 
in the w T inter. Cut out the earth containing the 
roots late in the fall, after the ground is frozen, 
and place them in a cool cellar. When wanted for 
forcing they may be brought up and set in a warm 
location, as on a shelf over the kitchen stove, where 
they can have a moist atmosphere and a tempera- 
ture jof 70 . Water them carefully at first, increas- 



72 



CON VALL ARIA CONVOLVULUS. 



ing the supply as growth commences, and both 
leaves and flower will soon appear. 

If not so fortunate as to possess a garden bed of 
Lily of the Valley, roots can be obtained from a 
florist. Plant them in a rich soil from three to 
six in a pot, according to its size. They may 
be grown in moss as well as earth, as they make 
little or no root before flowering, or they Will grow 
finely in a Wardian case. 

Only well matured roots, whose crown or " pip ' 
is developed, will flower. 



CONVOLVULUS. 

(MORNING GLORY.) 

Linnaeus named this plant from Convolvere, to 
entwine or wind about ; in reference to its habit It 
was first introduced into cultivation from Southern 
Europe in 1597. The minor varieties are the easi- 
est of ail vines to raise in doors, and make an effec- 
tive plant for the hanging basket or for any 
situation when a climbing or trailing plant is de 
sired. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Convolvulus will flourish in any good garden 
soil, and requires but ordinary care. It is easily 
grown from seeds. For winter blooming sow late 
in the season, out-door, and pot them on the ap- 
proach of frost. 



CONVOLVULUS — CRASSULA. 



73 



Sprays of C. Major, gathered from the garden 
may be used for house decoration in summer. 
Placed in a vase of water the buds will open day 
after day for a week or more and remain open most 
of the day. 

VARIETIES. 

Convolvulus Mauritanicus^ trailing, the flowers, borne freelv, are 
bright blue, two inches in diameter. Perfectly hardy, of more slen- 
der habit than the other varieties, and continues a long time in 
bloom. 

C. Minor, a garden annual, lies nearly prostrate, and projects 
just above its foliage masses of blue, white, and many colored 
flowers, fine for growing in vases or hanging baskets. Its blossoms 
are about two-thirds the size of the common Morning Glory. 



CRASSULA. 

This name is a diminutive of Crassus, thick ; in 
reference to its fleshy leaves. The plant is a native 
of the Cape of Good Hope. The Crassula produces 
from ten to twenty spikes, each containing hun- 
dreds of delicate, white, starry-shaped flowers. The 
succulent nature of the plant enables it to thrive in 
the dry and variable heat of the living-room, and as 
it can always be relied upon to bloom in mid-winter, 
when flowers are desirable, it is a valuable window- 
plant. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL CARE. 

The Crassula likes a sandy loam and brick-rub- 
bish soil, to which may be added some leaf-mold or 
rotted manure. 

4 



74 



CRASSULA CROCUS. 



It requires an abundance of water except in the 
months of September and October, when it should 
be kept rather dry and be given rest to prepare for 
winter blooming. 

The Crassula will endure any amount of heat, 
wants the full sun, should be kept in-door all sum- 
mer. 

It is easily multiplied by cuttings which should 
be taken off and laid for two or three davs in the 
sun to dry. Start them in damp sand under glass. 

As soon as rooted establish the plants in 2i-inch 
pots, in which they will bloom. Spring cuttings 
will make profusely-blooming plants the next winter 
if kept in small pots.and allowed to fill them with 
roots. They should never be set out in the open 
ground. 

After the plants have bloomed prune them into 
shape and keep them rather dry until they make, 
new shoots. Then turn them out of the pots and 
shake off part of the soil, replacing it with fresh. 
Unless the plant is very crowded, which may be 
determined by the condition of the roots, a pot of 
the same size will answer. 



CROCUS. 

Crocus is said to be a Chaldean name, applied to 
this plant by Thedphrastus. It is also stated 
to have been named for the youth, who, ac- 
cording to Grecian mythology, was changed into 



CROCUS. 



75 



this flower. It has been cultivated in the garden 
for ages past, having been introduced into Britain 
from Turkey in 1605. By proper management it 
is made to bloom in the house. The blossoms have 
a long tube-like form, gradually enlarging upwards, 
with colors of white, yellow, purple, lilac, blue, and 
variegated. A fine display of them may be pro- 
duced for the Christmas holidays. The period of 
bloom is brief, but the bulbs are cheap and flower 
soon after planting. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The crocus wants a sandy loam enriched with 
well rotted manure. 

It is increased by off-sets of the bulbs or by 
seeds. 

The method of forcing them into bloom during 
the winter is to take the bulbs, which should be 
kept in a cool, moist atmosphere until wanted, and, 
if for Christmas, pot early in September, placing a 
number of bulbs in each pot three inches apart and 
covering them with an inch or more of earth. Make 
the soil damp and set the pots on dry sand in a 
cool, well ventilated cellar, or cold-frame, where 
they will have a temperature of about 50 . In a 
few weeks roots will have formed and a growth of 
foliage commenced. The pots containing the most 
advanced plants, those showing the flower-truss in 
the centre of the leaves, may be placed in a cool 
window, shaded from the sun, and plentifully sup- 



.76 



CROCUS — CUPHEA. 



plied with water. In about a week they may be 
changed to a south window in a room warmed to 
60 or 65 degrees. If the pots are warmed to a 
temperature ten degrees higher than the atmos- 
phere they will advance most vigorously. 

Give them an application of liquid manure once 
a week. If they grow too rapidly remove to a 
cooler room and give more air. A succession of 
bloom may be kept up by bringing them forward 
as wanted. The bulbs should be used but once for 
the second flowering is inferior. 

VARIETIES OF CROCUS. 
Albion, very large white. 
Albertine, white-striped violet. 
Charles Dickens, large purple. 
David Rizzio, deep purple. 
La Neige, snow-white. 
Lord Paltnerston, sky-blue. 
Mammoth, pure white, very large. 

JVezv Golden Yelloiv, each bulb of this variety produces from ten 
to fifteen flowers. 

Prineess of Wales, pure white, very large and fine. 



CUPHEA. 

The Cuphea is named from KupJios, curved ; in 
reference to the form of the capsule. The species 
most commonly cultivated is CupJica Platycentra, 
from Mexico, often called the Cigar Plant. The 
Cuphea grows about a foot in height, is extremely 
easy of cultivation, a profuse and constant bloomer, 
hence a desirable house plant. 



CUPHEA CYCLAMEN. 



IT 



SOIL, WATERING AND PROPAGATION. 

A suitable soil for Cuphea is three parts loam 
and one each of sand and manure. 

Water freely, supplying means of thorough drain- 
age. 

It thrives in a temperature from 6o° to 75 °. 

Seed sown in the open ground during the late 
spring or summer will produce plants which, re- 
potted in autumn, will yield an abundance of bloom 
throughout the winter. 

They are also easily increased by cuttings started 
in sand or soil. 

VARIETIES. 
Ctiphea Galcottia7ta i flowers nearly black. 

C. Hyssopifolia, flowers small, tubular, of a purplish-lilac color. 

C. Platycentra,) (Cigar Plant,) tube of the flower scarlet, the 
upper end white and crimson, having a slight resemblance to a 
miniature lighted cigar. 



CYCLAMEN. 

The name Cyclamen is from the Greek word, 
meaning circular ; referring to its leaves, which are 
heart-shaped. It belongs to the primrose family, 
and is a native of Europe and Asia, where in some 
localities it has the name of "Sowbread," for not- 
withstanding that all the species are noted for their 
acridity, its bulbs are the principal food of the wild 
boars of Sicily. 

In all varieties both leaves and flowers shoot from 



73 



CYCLAMEN. 



the solid tuberous root. The flowers usually white, 
tinted at the base with a rosy purple, are of one 
petal, but deeply divided into five segments. After 
blooming* the flower stalk coils in a spiral form and 
bends earthward and buries its ripened seeds m the 
soil. 

The variety in common cultivation is Cyclamen 
Persicum. It is well adapted to the window. With- 
out much care it gives an abundance of flowers in 
winter, and they are valuable as a variety for 
bouquets. The plant well deserves a wider culti- 
vation than it has hitherto received. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND TREATMENT, 

For the Cyclamen a soil of light loam, enriched 
with leaf-mold. Small quantities of soot or charcoal 
well incorporated are said to increase the size and 
brilliancy of the flowers. 

The temperature should range from 45 ° at night 
to 65 by day. 

The plant seeds freely. To increase stock plant 
yearly. Seedlings bloom when two years old. 

The Cyclamen does not require a large pot, 
Place the crown of the bulb just above the surface 
of the soil. Give water sparingly until the leaves 
appear, and then not enough to make the soil heavy 
or pasty, and observe that the drainage is unobstruct- 
ed. Decrease the amount of water when the flow- 
ering s jason his passed, permitting the bulbs to 
dry off for a season of rest. 

The blooming quality is injured if seeds are 



CYCLAMEN DAPHNE ODORA. 



79 



allowed to ripen. Florists bury the bulbs in an 
open border during the summer, taking them up 
about the middle of September, when they are found 
fresh and plump. Mice are fond of them and care 
must be taken that they do not get at them. After 
potting keep the plants in a cool place until the 
leaves are well grown. When the flower stems ap- 
pear remove to a sunny shelf where they will soon 
bloom. Give them all the sun possible to promote 
flowering, after which by shading, the duration of 
the flowers, may be prolonged two or three months, 
and this season having passed, gradually withhold 
water and let the leaves die. 



DAPHNE ODORA. 

This name is from Daio, to burn, and phone, a 
noise ; the wood of the plant crackles when burn- 
ing. The Daphne resembles the laurel, and is also 
said to have received the name of the goddess 
Daphne, who not favoring the suit of Apollo, de- 
sired the gods to aid her in escaping him. In 
answer to her prayers she was changed into a laurel 
tree. The Daphne Odora, introduced from China 
in 1 771, is an old favorite, though latterly not much 
cultivated. It is a shrub attaining a height of four 
feet, with glossy-evergreen leaves and bears ter- 
minal branches of fragrant pinkish-white flowers, 
from December to March. It is one of the best of 
all wood\ r plants for house culture. 



8o 



DAPHNE ODORA. 



SOIL, TEMPERATURE AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The best soil for Daphnes is light loam, enriched 
with leaf-mold. The roots should have plenty of 
room, and may be repotted in the spring or fall. 

They should not be over-watered, but are capable 
of enduring great heat and drouth, though to pro- 
mote growth this plant should have a moist, cool, 
atmosphere not above 45 at night or 6o° during 
the day. The foliage should be kept clean by 
syringing, or washing in tepid water with a sponge. 

The Daphne Odora may be increased by graft- 
ing on the common laurel, or by cuttings rooted in 
bottles of water hung in the sun. When an abund- 
ance of white roots are formed, break the bottle 
and carefully set the cutting out. Keep it moist 
for two weeks by sprinkling and covering with 
glass. 

As this plant may be a household pet for years, 
it should be pruned when young into a symmetrical 
tree. It will bear the severest pruning, buds start- 
ing freely from all the young wood. 

VARIETIES. 

Daphne Odorata, flowers white or pinkish. 

D. Odorata Rubra$m<$s> red, flowers rosy-red and of a spicy frag- 
rance. 

D. Hybrida, hardy in England, flowers purple and fragrant, 
blooming at all seasons 



DIANTHUS. 



8l 



DIANTHUS. 

(THE CARNATION, PICOTEE OR PINK.) 

The genus Dianthus, name derived from dzos, di- 
vine and anthoSy a flower, includes three members of 
the floral kingdom, D. Caryophy litis, the Carnation 
and Picotee, D. Chinensis, the Chinese Pink, and D. 
Hortensis, the Garden Pink, unrivalled for the frag- 
rance and beauty of their flowers. The first named 
is the prominent variety for the window, and was 
introduced into cultivation nearly 400 years ago 
from Italy or Germany. The monthly Carnations 
bloom several times a year and are, therefore, most 
desirable. The distinction between the Carnation 
and Picotee is not botanical, but made by florists 
on account of the different marks of color in the 
petals. Under each of these names there are 
several classes as Bizarres, Flakes, etc., which in- 
clude all colors, from white to dark velvety carmine, 
with their shades, veins, stripes and marblings, and 
as these are all undergoing constant transformations 
the nomenclature of the different varieties is con- 
fusing. But the old fashioned common name Pink 
applies to all members of the Dianthus family. The 
spicy fragrance, beautiful colors and durability of 
the flowers make them indispensable for the win- 
dow, and justify the name " Flower of Jove." 

SOIL, WATERING AND PROPAGATION. 

A rich and congenial soil is indispensable to the 
Carnation, and there are curious old English re- 
4* 6 



82 



DIANTHUS. 



ceipts for preparing it. A soil composed of equal 
parts of sandy loam, leaf-mold and thoroughly rot- 
ted stable manure, to which may be added a little 
old lime rubbish, will suit them. 

They should be watered rather sparingly, as a 
wet soil destroys them, and hence the importance 
of good drainage. 

Though they will endure a low temperature, even 
a slight frost, they should have, when forcing for 
winter bloom, a temperature of 50 at night and 
70 to 75 by day. 

They are propagated by seeds for producing new 
varieties, and. by cuttings, layers and pipings for in- 
creasing. 

Seeds should be sown in April or May in sandy 
soil under glass, and transplanted when two inches 
high into small pots and thence to the open ground. 
They flower the second year. A seed rarely comes 
true to its variety. A celebrated Carnation grower 
states that the chance of obtaining a handsome 
Carnation from seed is as one to a hundred. 

To raise cuttings, sever a half-ripened shoot just 
below a joint with a sharp knife, remove the lower 
leaves close to the stem, and if between September 
and May set out in a pot of wet sand, or compost, 
under glass. If of compost cover the top with an 
inch of sand The pots should have drainage. In 
the summer season cuttings may be put out in the 
flower border under glass and frequently watered. 
An inverted fruit jar will answer for glass. When 



DIANTHUS. 



83 



the cuttings root they will commence to grow, and 
should be transplanted to small pots or two or three 
in a large pot, if preferred. Cuttings of the Dian- 
thus root at a lower temperature than most other. 

To increase by layers, when the plant is in full 
bloom or a little past, trim all except the two ter- 
minal leaves from a side branch, and cut upward 
through the third joint, commencing from the under 
side, half severing the stalk with an oblique incis- 
ion. Fasten this point carefully to the earth with 
a hooked peg and cover it with an inch of sifted 
mold and water slightly. In four or six w-eeks, 
when they have rooted, separate from the parent 
stem and pot. 

GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Carnations may be bedded in the open ground 
early in the season, but plants which are designed 
for winter flowering should not be allowed to bloom 
through the summer. Cutting the flower stalks 
back also induces a stocky growth, their natural 
habit being tall and slight. Pot them in Septem- 
ber, keep shaded a few days, then give them a 
sunny window and a frequent bath to keep their 
foliage fresh and free from insects. A weekly ap- 
plication of liquid manure benefits them, and will 
sometimes force a barren plant to bloom. 

Florists enumerate several hundred varieties of 
Carnations. The following list embraces a broad 
range of colors, including the latest and most im- 
proved kinds. 



8 4 



DIANTHUS CHINENSIS. 



VARIETIES OF DIANTHUS CARYOPHYLLUS. 
Beauty, white with scarlet stripes. 

Brightness, large bright scarlet, very double, clove fragrance. 

Centennial, a new variety only 18 inches in height, an abundant 
bloomer, flowers white, very delicately striped with carmine, strong 
clove fragrance. 

De Fontana, orange, shaded to purple. 

Gauntlet, a new variety, a light shade of carmine. 

Horace Greeley, slate, flaked with bright red, free -grower and 
profuse bloomer. 

hidisfiensable, deep yellow flaked, with bright red. 

Little Beauty, carmine edge, yellow ground. 

La Purite, bright deep carmine. 

Meteor, dazzling red. 

Mrs. McKenzie, light rose, clove fragrance. 
Oscar, yellow. 

Snow White, new variety, always pure white, fine form, rich 
clove fragrance. 



DIANTHUS CHINENSIS. 

(CHINESE PINK.) 

The Dianthus Chinensis, including the old 
Chinese Pink, now very much improved, and the 
new varieties from Japan known as Dianthus Hedde- 
wigii and D. Laciniatus, are among the most bril- 
liant and useful of our garden flowers. The last 
two comprise many varieties, the result of hybridiz- 
ation, with flowers very large and double and of 
rich and varied colors. Few plants are more easy 
of cultivation, and as they bloom profusely through 
the winter, they are an excellent house plant, though 
not fragrant. The dwarf varieties are best suited 
for the window. 



DIANTHUS CHINENSIS. 



85 



SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Chinese Pink thrives in a rich loam mixed 
with a little leaf-mold. 

They require an abundant supply of water. 

A temperature from 6o° to 75 is suitable. 

They are easily propagated from seeds or cut- 
tings. The former may be planted in June in good 
garden soil, and the flower buds pinched off until 
September, when they should be potted without 
disturbing the soil around the roots and kept shaded 
two weeks. Water sparingly till flower buds ap- 
pear, then increase the supply, and give them a 
sunny and airy location, with an application of 
liquid manure once a week. Under this treatment 
they will flower constantly all winter. 

Cuttings made in July or August when they are 
blooming out of doors will make fine plants for the 
succeeding winter. Take them off close to the 
root and place in damp sand or soil. 

VARIETIES. 

Dianthus Ckinensis Heddiwigii, flowers three inches in diameter 
rich colors often finely marked. 

I). Ckinensis florepleno atropurpurens, dark red, double flowers. 

D. Ckinensis imperialis rubrus striatus, double white, striped with 
red. 

D. Ckinensis imperialis purpnrenns striatits, double white, striped 
with purple. 

D. Chininsis imperialis flore-albo, double white. 

D. Ckinensis laciniatus, flowers very large, petals deeply fringed, 
and beautifully colored. 

D. Ckifiensis laciniatus flore-pleno^ magnificent double flowers, 
very large petals deeply serrated. 



86 



DIELYTRA. 



DIELYTRA. 

The word Dielytra from dis, double, and elytron, 
a sheath, alludes to the sheath-like spurs at the 
base of the flower. The plant is a native of North 
America and Northern Asia. Of the varieties one 
is known as Squirrel Corn, another as Dutchman's 
Breeches ; the best variety is D. Spectabilis, from 
China, sometimes called Bleeding Heart, from the 
form and color of the flowers. These are borne in 
graceful drooping racemes a foot or more in length. 
The plant is perfectly hardy and valuable alike for 
the garden, conservatory or window. 

SOIL, TEMPERATURE AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Dielytra thrives best in a light sandy loam, 
It requires a temperature of about 6o° and a 

moderate supply of water. 

It is propagated by division of the roots or by 

seeds. 

The Dielytra should be taken up in October and 
set in a sheltered place for a month, giving a little 
water daily. When the young shoots appear place 
the plant in the sunny windows of a cool room, and 
as it grows increase the supply of water. When 
through flowering remove to a shady place and 
withhold water Gradually till the leaves turn yel- 
low, when it should be allowed to rest and moist- 
ened only enough to keep it alive. The following 
autumn supply it with fresh soil and proceed as 
above. The roots should be divided yearly or be 
given more room for growth. 



DRACENAS. 



87 



DRACENAS. 

This plant, named from drakina, a female dragon, 
belongs to a genus of endogenous plants, natives of 
India, of which one species affords the resin of 
commerce called dragon's blood. Dracenas are 
cultivated for the beauty of their foliage. The 
graceful, palm-like form of growth and intense 
coloring of some varieties give them high rank 
among the ornamental-leaved plants. A few years 
ago they were seen only in collections of choice 
green-house plants. They will flourish in the living- 
room under ordinary treatment, and make beautiful 
standard plants for vases and hanging-baskets ; 
their pleasing tropical habit rendering them very 
suitable for house decoration. 

SOIL, TEMPERATURE AND PROPAGATION. 

Dracenas thrive in a light, loamy soil. 
They like a temperature of from 50 to 75 °. 
Large cuttings root freely in sand, provided 
there is a strong heat. 

VARIETIES. 

Dracena Anstralis, long, graceful, narrow leaves. 
D. Brasiliensis, broad, deep-green leaves. 
D. Congests narrow green leaves. 

D. Guilfoleyii, variegated white and green, rare and beautiful. 
D Indivisa, green and bronze, narrow leaves. 
D A T obilis Slricta, marked with crimson. 

D Terminate, a variety most used, easily managed ; foliage 
rich crimson, marked with pink and white. 



88 



ERICA. 



ERICA. 

(HEATH.) 

Erica is from the Greek, signifying to break ; in 
allusion to the brittleness of the stems. The Heath 
is a shrub used in Great Britain for brooms, thatch, 
beds for the poor and for heating ovens. More 
than a thousand species exist ; several hundred have 
been cultivated in Europe, where, they are grown 
to perfection and are considered the finest of all 
hard-woocled green-house plants. In this country 
they are cultivated to a much less extent ; the hot 
summers of our climate render the growth of many 
of the varieties very difficult. A few of the free- 
winter-flowerins; Heath are desirable on account of 
the delicate beauty of their flowers, in shades from 
purple, through red to white, and are used in bou- 
quet making. Those usually cultivated are from 
the Cape of Good Hope, and known as " Cape 
Heaths.*' Though not recommended as window- 
plants, their great beauty will reward those who can 
devote time to their cultivation. 

SOIL, WATERING, PROPAGATION AND TREATMENT. 

The free-growing Heaths thrive in black fibrous 
peat. The dwarf hard-wooded kinds should have a 
considerable mixture of sand with the peat. Either 
will grow well in partially decayed leaf-mold. 

They should have a moderate supply of water. 
That which contains lime or salt is injurious to 
thorn and rain water is best. The dwarf hard-wooded 



ERICA. 



89 



kinds need less than the free-growers. As stagnant 
water at the roots will destroy them, good drainage is 
essential. A careful attention must be given to the 
regular and proper amount of water. A day's 
neglect or a drenching is equally fatal to the hair- 
like roots, which cannot survive being either parch- 
ed or sodden. 

Heaths want a low temperature ; nothing short 
of frost is too cool for some varieties. Give them 
a cool part of the house in winter and a shaded 
northern exposure in summer. 

The seed of Cape Heath in mixed varieties, is 
sold by florists. 

The Erica is easily increased from cuttings. In 
March take an inch of the tops of the young shoots 
and place half their length in damp sand, under 
glass. Shade from the direct rays of the sun. give 
air daily ; keep them slightly moist and pot them 
as soon as rooted, in small pots. When the danger 
of frost has passed set them out in the open ground 
in a location shaded from the noon-dav sun. These 
will make flowering plants the next winter. In 
September pot and keep them in a cool shaded 
place, until they get established. 

Old plants should remain in pots through the 
summer. They may be sunk in the earth in a 
shady place, and well sprinkled every evening. Re- 
potting is necessary only when the roots become 
matted around the sides of the pot and is usually 
done- in the spring. Prune or pinch back the plants 



9 o 



ERICA EUPATORIUM. 



sufficiently to keep them from growing tall and 
spindling. 

VARIETIES. 

White or Light* Flmered. — Arborea, Margaritacea, Grandinosa, 
Boweana, Jasminiflora, Conferta, Vestita alba, Odorata, Ventri- 
cosa, Pellucida, Wilmoriana, Caffra alba. 

Red Flowers. — Gracilis, Ignescens, Mediterranea, Caffra Rubra. 

Scarlet or Crimson. — Ardens, Cerinthoides, Hartnelli, Splendens, 
Coccinea, Vestita fulgida, Tricolor. 

Purfle Flowers. — Amcena, Mammosa; Meianthera rnutabilis, 
Propendens tubiflora. 

Lilac. — Baccans, Suavolens. 

Yellow. — Cavendishii, Depressa, Denticulata. 

Green-Flowered. — Gelida, Veridiflora, Viridis. 



EUPATORIUM. 

This plant is named from Eupator, King of 
Pontus, who used it as a counter-poison. Many 
species of this extensive genus are scattered over 
the United States. Both foliage and flower of the 
cultivated kinds have been improved by the florist, 
and the white varieties are in great demand for 
funeral decorations, as well as for weddings and 
banquets. They are almost indispensable in bouquet- 
making, for their delicate tassel-like flowers con- 
trast admirably with those of brilliant colors. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Eupatorium should have a sandy loam con- 
taining some leaf-mold or peat. 

Give it plenty of water, and a low temperature. 



EUPATORIUM FERNS. 9 1 

It is easily propagated from cuttings, which may 
be rooted in damp sand. Those started in spring 
will, if pinched back, make fine blooming plants for 
the following winter. Slips taken early in June, 
grown in the flower-garden until September, and 
then carefully potted, kept shaded for a few days- 
and their buds pinched off until November, will 
bloom profusely until February. If wanted for 
later flowering, give them as low a temperature as 
possible without freezing through the first part of 
the winter. ' Full sunshine impairs the whiteness 
of the flowers. Eupatoriums should be well cut 
back in the spring, the earth shaken from the 
roots, and re-potted in fresh soil. If the plants are 
intended for the next winter, sink the pots in the 
earth and by pinching off the buds, prevent their 
blooming in summer. 

VARIETIES. 
Eupatorium Ageratoids, pure white. 
E. Arboreum, flowers from November to January* 
E. Elegans, flowers from November to March. 
E. Mexicanum, pure white. 
E. Salieifolium, flowers throughout January. 



FERNS. 

Ferns are an order of cryptogamous or flower- 
less plants called Felices, having their fructification 
on the back of the leaves or fronds, as their com- 
bined foliage of stem and leaf is termed. The 
genera number over 2000 species, generally in- 



9 2 



FERNS. 



habiting humid regions, sometimes growing parasit- 
ically on trees, and includes many curious and in- 
teresting varieties, from the slight feathery native 
of New England to the monster tree-fern of the 
tropics. It is supposed this was among the earliest 
forms of vegetable life, and that in the far distant 
past fern-forests covered the earth. 

For house cultivation most ferns need the protec- 
tion of a Fernery or Wardian case, though a few 
succeed well without it, and produce a fine effect 
with but little attention. Their pleasing symmetry 
of form, and their adaptability to growing in the 
shade, make them a desirable house plant. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Ferns have fine roots and require a light soil of 
leaf-mold or peat mixed with a little sand. The 
former is preferable. The soil should be broken 
fine but not sifted. 

Tepid rain-water should be given copiously once 
in two or three days, but must not stand about the 
roots, as it will cause them to decay. 

They thrive best in a cool moist atmosphere ; will 
even endure considerable exposure to frost. Ferns 
should not receive the direct rays of the sun. They 
are usually free from insects. All the care they 
demand is an occasional washing or syringing to 
clear their leaves of dust ; in a Fernery even this 
slight trouble is unnecessary. Re-pot them an- 
nually late in the Fall. 



FERNS. 



93 



The exotic Ferns are best adapted for house cul- 
tivation ; but some of our native species, with 
proper management, will thrive in cool rooms, and 
in Ferneries they do quite as well as the foreign 
varieties. Select small species, remove them care- 
fully with earth enough for future growth, disturb- 
ing the roots as little as possible. Make their soil 
firm, keep them in a cool shady, airy location, water 
plentifully and they will flourish as in the quiet 
nooks of their native woods. They appear to a fine 
advantage arranged in a rockery. One is easily 
made with a wooden bowl or any shallow vessel. 
Place first a layer of charcoal and pebbles, then a 
bed of leaf-mold, on this a mound of odd-shaped 
rocks, filling in the interstices with leaf-mold, in 
which firmly plant the Ferns, a tall-growing one in 
the center. Around the edge set Sedum or some 
trailing shade-loving plants. 

A few of those varieties best adapted for house 
cultivation outside the Fernery are given. 

VARIETIES. 

Adiantum Affine, a delicate Fern from New Zealand, easily 
grown. 

Adiantum Cuneatum, a beautiful Brazilian species, propagated 
so readily from spores, that young plants often come up in adjacent 
pots. 

Adiantum Pedatnm, the native Maiden-hair Fern. 

Adiantum CapiUns Veneris ■, the English Maiden-hair Fern. 

Blechnum Brazilienese, a large, coarse, but handsome Fern. 

Lygodium Scandens, a climbing Fern from the East Indies, 
growing rapidly like Smilax, as easily cultivated and used for 
similar .decorative purposes, climbing, when supported by strings 



94 



FERNS. 



or wires. It may also be used with equal advantage as a drooping 
plant for baskets or vases. 

Niphobolus Lingua Corybiferum, an evergreen species from 
Japan, China and the East Indies ; fronds simple, entire, dark 
green on the upper surface, spread with white stellate scales, their 
under surface covered with drab or brown scales, easily grown in a 
cool atmosphere. 

Platy cerium Grande, or Elk-horn Fern, so named from its 
branched form, a curious species of epiphytal Fern from Australia 
and neighboring islands ; can be grown on corks or pieces of wood 
with Sphagnum Moss, if kept liberally showered ; a curious and 
beautiful ornament, 

Pteris Cretica Alba Lineata, fronds with a clear white center and 
mid-rib, the only variegated Fern which will thrive in the house. 

Pteris Serrulata> the most common of exotic Ferns, native of the 
East Indies, a large, rapid-growing species, comes up so readily 
from spores in Fern-houses as to become a weed. 

RARE NATIVE FERNS. 

Lygodium Palmatum, or climbing Fern, a beautiful, somewhat 
rare native species, growing on moist, shady banks of some 
parts of New England and Pennsylvania. It has slight running 
root-stalks, from which proceed slender twining flexible stalks, 
with smooth palmate frondlets, which are sterile. The fertile 
frondlets are on the ends of the stalks in compound terminal pan- 
icles. The rurming stalks are often three or more feet long, and 
the whole plant is suggestive of a delicate miniature ivy. It is in 
great demand for house decoration in a dried, pressed form, which 
process does not in the least injure its beautiful green, and if taste- 
fully arranged on walls it appears as if actually gro wing there. It 
is not recommended for house culture except in Ferneries where 
it is surpassingly beautiful. 

Walking Leaf Fern, a rare and curious native Fern, growing in 
tufts with simple spreading, evergreen fronds, heart-shaped at the 
base, tapering gradually into a runner-like appendage, which roots 
at the apex, and a new plant is produced, that in time sends forth 
another stepping leaf. Borne irregularly on the reticulate veins of 
the frond, are the oblong fruit-dots, those towards the edge of the 
frond seemingly arranged in pairs. 



FUCHSIA. 



95 



FUCHSIA. 

The Fuchsia was named by the French botanist 
Plumier in honor of the celebrated botanist Leonard 
Fuchs, author of Historia Stirpium, in 1542. It 
ranks among the most beautiful plants of the tem- 
perate flora of Mexico and Chili, and was first in- 
troduced from the latter country in 1788. In 
South America they attain the size of trees. It is 
an admirable house plant, easily cultivated with fine 
foliage and a profusion of graceful pendulous flow- 
ers, having a wide diversity of coloring In the dif- 
ferent varieties. The Fuchsia naturally blooms in 
summer and autumn, but can be made to blossom 
abundantly in winter and spring, and indeed with 
proper management, nine or ten months of the 
year. The double Fuchsias are not free winter 
bloomers, though some of their varieties are most 
beautiful, and if their buds are pinched off through 
the fall will bloom as early as January. 

SOIL, WATERING, TEMPERATURE AND PROPAGATION. 

Fuchsias need a light rich soil of equal parts 
sandy loam and leaf-mold, to which should be added 
a little well-rotted manure. 

They should have an abundant supply of water, 
with good drainage. If allowed to become too wet 
or too dry the buds will drop. 

A moderatelv moist atmosphere is congenial to 
this plant, with a temperature of from 50 to 65 de- 
grees. Thev can be grown in an east, west, or even 



9 6 



FUCHSIA. 



north window, not requiring the direct rays of the 
sun, though to secure luxuriant growth and profuse 
bloom the morning or afternoon sun is necessary. 

They are increased by cuttings which root easily 
in sand or soil if kept quite wet. When protected 
by glass they should have frequent ventilation, 
being liable to damp off. The new woody shoots 
make the best cuttings. Plants rooted early in the 
spring will bloom the ensuing fall, though it is 
better the buds be pinched off until the plant has 
a year's uninterrupted growth before flowering. 
Young Fuchsias should be pruned into the desired 
shape before the shoots become woody. They can 
be trained to a trellis, in an umbrella shape, as a 
climbing plant, also in the form of a tree or shrub. 

GENERAL TREATMENT. 

It is important that the Fuchsia should be re- 
potted as soon as the roots touch the sides of the 
pot, and the plant kept in a constant state of growth 
until it blooms. Those who have a limited space 
or wish to cultivate a variety of Fuchsias will find 
young plants much more desirable than older ones. 
Old plants should be removed early in the fall to 
the cellar, and water withheld from them and their 
leaves allowed to drop. Bring them up late in 
January. Prune freely ; dig about the roots ; 
water carefully at first and more as growth ad- 
vances, giving also liquid fertilizer. 

Fuchsias may be watered occasionally with water 
impregnated with iron rust. Through the winter 



FUCHSIA HEDERA. 



97 



a luxuriant growth and profuse bloom may be in- 
duced by a plentiful application of liquid hen man- 
ure once a week. If infested with the red spider 
immerse them in a tub of water daily, or lay the 
plants on their sides and shower thoroughly with a 
sprinkler. 

VARIETIES. 

Aurora, corolla orange-scarlet, sepals white. 
Beauty of Sherwood, corolla cherry, sepals white. 
Brilliant, corolla bright scarlet, sepals white. A good winter 
bloomer. 

Carl Holt, corolla crimson, striped with white. 
Emperor of Brazil, corolla violet, flaked with rose, sepals scarlet 
or crimson. 

Lady Heytesbury, corolla violet, sepals pure white. 
Meteor, bronze leaves, very ornamental. 

Mrs. Marshall, corolla carmine, sepals white. Large and fine. 
Rose of Castile, corolla blush violet, sepals white. 
Speciosa, corolla scarlet, two inches in length, sepals blush. 
White Eagle, corolla white, sepals carmine, 



HEDERA. 

( ENGLISH IVY. ) 

The words Hedera and Ivy are derived from the 
Celtic; the former meaning a cord and the latter 
signifying green — both appropriate for the plant. 
The Hedera Helix is a native of Europe. On the 
continent it is called " English Ivy"; in Britain 
" Irish Ivy " ; in this country it is sometimes given 
one name, and sometimes the other. Hedera Cauari- 
ensis, also called Irish Ivy, is a slightly larger 
5^ 7 



9 8 



HEDERA. 



variety. What is known as Italian Ivy is a variety 
of the Hedera Helix, having smaller leaves and a 
more branching growth. Many climbers with a hed- 
eraceous habit, are falsely called Ivies, as Senecio 
ScandenSy know as German Ivy, Lindria Cymbalaria, 
commonly called Coliseum or Kenihvorth Ivy, the 
American or Five-fingered Ivy, and others. These 
plants deserve their own name. The Hedera has 
veined, dark shining-green leaves of a waxen ap- 
pearance, with three, five, and sometimes seven 
lobes. Its flowers of a greenish hue, produced in 
umbels, are unimportant ; its beauty consisting in 
a graceful green cord, studded with unfading 
leaves. In England and the more southern parts of 
America, it is hardy, attains an enormous size, and 
lends an indescribable charm to those stone struc- 
tures, ruins, trees, or objects about which it twines. 

The Hedera is a classical plant. In Egypt it was 
sacred to Osiris, in Greece to Bacchus, and the 
Romans twined the Hedera Poetica with laurel in 
the crowns of their poets. While poet, sculptor 
and painter have immortalized it, in the modern 
home it arches window or door, rounds the angles 
of the room or wreathes the pictures of loved 
ones with living green, adding to the walls of the 
humble cottage a richer ornamentation than gild- 
ing to the palace. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Hedera likes a loam well mixed with leaf- 
mold and rotted manure. 



HEDERA. 



99 



Make the soil damp but never wet. Liquid man- 
ure should be given fortnightly, and a tea of de- 
cayed wood occasionally. 

Too high a temperature should be avoided ; the 
plant does best in a cool room with a range from 
45° to 6 5 °. 

It is increased by cuttings which root readily in 
water, or they may be planted where they are to 
grow. 

As the sustenance of the Ivy is derived largely 
from its liquid food, it does not need to be re-potted 
often. Once in two or three years, when growth is 
arrested by the roots becoming pot-bound, transfer 
it to larger quarters, using care not to disturb the 
roots. Changing their location disagrees with 
them. They should remain in the same place if 
possible and never be taken out-door. A room 
darkened too much for Ivy would be unhealthy for 
human occupants. Sponge their leaves to keep 
them free from dust, and if infested by slugs wash 
each leaf with warm soap-suds. Branches placed 
in a vase or in a bottle behind a picture frame will 
flourish many months. The plant is of slow 
growth ; two feet a year is fair progress, though 
under proper treatment it advances much more 
rapidly. A thrifty plant in five or six years will 
decorate three sides of a dwelling room. 



100 



HELIOTROPE. 



HELIOTROPE. 

The flowers of the Heliotrope are said to turn 
toward the sun ; its name is from helios, the sun, 
and trope y to turn. H. Peruvianum % the species 
usually cultivated was discovered by the celebrated 
Jussieu while botanizing in the Cordilleras in 1 757. 
He sent seeds to Europe and the plant soon be- 
came a household treasure. It is esteemed for its 
delicious fragrance ; the Orientals say that its per- 
fumes elevate their souls toward heaven. In Cali- 
fornia immense bushes of this plant grow wild and 
bloom luxuriantly the entire year. The Heliotrope 
adapts itself to the window either as a small plant 
or a shrub several feet in height, blossoming from 
the age of a few months onward. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATNENT. 

The Heliotrope should have a sandy loam en- 
riched with leaf-mold or a little well-rotted manure. 

It requires but a moderate supply of water, a 
small amount of liquid fertilizer fortnightly, and 
frequent washings to destroy the red spider. 

It wants a warm temperature ; 6o° at night and 
75° to 8o° during the day. 

Cuttings of the young wood strike readily in wet 
sand or soil. When rooted they should be trans- 
ferred to 2^-inch pots, and afterwards be re-potted 
as their growth may demand. Cuttings rooted in 
March make blooming plants the following winter. 

The Heliotrope may be trained to a trellis and 



HELIOTROPE HIBISCUS. I O I 

made to fill a window, or in tree form ; the droop- 
ing habit of its branches gives it a graceful appear- 
ance. Old plants, if in a healthy condition, bloom 
most. They bear pruning well, though the old 
branches will produce larger flowers than a new 
growth. Plants bedded out through the summer 
attain a rank succulent growth, and should be well 
pruned when potted for winter. It is well for those 
who like the Heliotrope to have one or more old 
plants and a number of small ones in order to have 
a constant succession of bloom. 

Florists' catalogues contain lists of Heliotropes 
in colors, ranging from almost white to dark violet. 
As these names vary and maybe considered merely 
fanciful, a list of them is of no great value. Those 
wishing to purchase may consult catalogues from 
year to year. 



HIBISCUS. 

The name Hibiscus is probably derived from 
ibis, a stork, which is said to chew the leaves of 
some of the species. All the varieties of this ex- 
tensive genus are very showy flowering plants. H. 
Rosa-sinensis, an evergreen tree in the East Indies, 
is coming into extensive use for bedding-out in 
summer. The hardy sorts planted in the garden, 
and the more tender varieties grown indoor are 
alike characterized by the size and beautiful color 
of their flowers. 



102 



HIBISCUS HOYA. 



SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Hibiscus thrives best in a soil of equal parts 
loam and peat, or leaf-mold. 

It requires a plentiful supply of water and good 
drainage. 

It is easily propagated from cuttings, whicn root 
readily in damp sand under glass. The hardy an- 
nual varieties merely require to be sown in the open 
ground, while the tender annuals and biennials 
should be started in pots and treated as other tender 
annuals and biennials. 

Hibiscus Coccineus speciosus, scarlet green-house shrub, 3 feet 
high. 

H. LilifloruSy scarlet lily-flowered, 3 feet. 

H. Rosa-sinensis, single-red. 

H t Rosa-sinensis auranlica, double orange. 

H. Rosa-sinensis Cooperii, variegated foliage, white, green and 
pink. 

H. Rosa-sinensis fulgidns, flowers five inches in diameter, intense 
scarlet, paler towards the centre, where on each- petal is an oblong 
blotch of deep crimson. 

H. Rosa-sinensis Intens, a beautiful lemon color, marked with 
lake at the base. 

H. Rosa-sinensis rnbra-plena, double red. 

H, Rosa-sinensis versicolor, striped crimson, rose and white. 



HOYA. 

( WAX PLANT. ) 

This plant, named in honor of Thomas Hoy, 
F. L. S., is a native of tropical Asia and the East 
Indies. Hoy a Carnosa is a shrub-like climber with 



a* 



HOYA HYACINTH. 



103 



dark shining-green fleshy leaves. It bears clusters 
of waxen flowers, creamy white, with rose-colored 
center, and in each may be found a drop of limpid 
honey. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Hoya thrives in a soil of equal parts loam 
and peat or leaf-mold. 

Water moderately when in growth and scantily 
while at rest. 

It should have all the sunlight and heat possible. 

Cuttings planted in moist leaf-mold with heat 
will root freely ; even a leaf taken off close to the 
wood will produce a plant. 

A good location for the Hoya is a bracket at the 
side of or near a window. Like the Hedera it is 
suitable for training over doors or pictures, and it 
will be benefited by the warm air of the upper part 
of the room. The old bloom stalks should not be 
cut off, as they continue to flower from year to 
year. 



HYACINTH. 

The Hyacinthus is said to have received the 
name of a boy killed by Zephyrus ; or of a beauti- 
ful Laconian youth beloved by Apollo, who killed 
him by an unlucky cast of his quoit, and from whose 
blood this flower sprang. The plant is native of 
the Levant, has been a favorite for 300 years, and 
is the most desirable of all bulbs for its adaptabil- 



104 



HYACINTH. 



ity to almost any situation, its diversity of color, 
fragrance and the amount of bloom it yields. Its 
waxen lily-like flowers, borne in spikes from four to 
ten inches long, range from white to dark blue, and 
contribute all that a flower can to make winter 
cheerful. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

A sandy, porous soil is best suited to the Hya- 
cinthe ; mix thoroughly equal parts of sandy loam, 
leaf-mold and well rotted manure. 

They should be well and evenly watered. 

They like a cool, moist atmosphere, not above 
70 degrees. 

The Hyacinth is increased by offsets from the 
bulbs. These offsets become mature flowering- 
bulbs when four years old. Flower-stalks which 
appear during their growth should be cut off, that 
the whole strength of the plant may be thrown into 
the bulb. As the propagation of Hyacinths is not 
likely to be attempted by amateurs, an extended 
account is unnecessary. 

Bulbs sold by florists are grown mainly in Hol- 
land, and reach this country in September, and 
should be purchased soon, after their arrival. The 
Hyacinth naturally blooms in the spring, but by 
proper management their flowers are produced 
during the winter months. Various methods of 
thus forcing them into bloom are practiced. The 
use of pots is simplest and best, and a deep kind is 
made for this purpose. A small pot answers for a 



HYACINTH. 



ic5 



single bulb ; three or four in a larger one produce 
a fine effect. Set the bulb firmly in the centre of 
the pot, so only its upper surface appears above the 
soil. Saturate the earth with water, and set them 
in a cool, dark cellar a few weeks, where the bulbs 
will develop roots, though but little foliage. Re- 
move, a few at a time, to a warm, light room, and a 
succession of bloom can be enjoyed. If the tem- 
perature be above jo they should be changed at 
night to a cooler room. One or two applications 
of liquid manure, when first brought forward, will 
be beneficial. 

Hyacinths are flowered in glasses. Many fanci- 
ful designs are made for that purpose ; dark colored 
ones are best. Place the bulb in the crown of a 
glass filled with rain-water until it nearly reaches 
but does not touch the base of the bulb. Set them 
in a cool, dark place, and change the water weekly, 
or as often as it becomes discolored. When the 
flower buds appear give the plants a light moist at- 
mosphere, sprinkle frequently and they will soon 
bloom and may be taken to a warmer room as 
wanted. One or two drops of aqua ammonia added 
to the water after the plants are brought to the 
light will hasten the flowering. Hyacinths will not 
bloom in perfection in a dry hot room. Their 
flowers should be cut as soon as they begin to fade. 

Hyacinths can be flowered in wet moss, sand, 
charcoal, etc., by those wishing to gratify curiosity. 
The future value of bulbs forced otherwise than in 
5* 



io6 



HYACINTH HYDRANGEA. 



soil is destroyed. They bloom well but once, though 
they will produce inferior flowers for years. 

VARIETIES. 

All Hyacinths are seedlings or hybrids of the 
old H. Orientalis, and the varieties are innumer- 
able. Those wishing bulbs should consult the 
catalogue of a dealer ; that of James Vick, Roches- 
ter, N. Y., has always an extensive list, and no one 
imports better bulbs. Eight shades each of the 
single and double, some low and some tall grow- 
ing, are catalogued. The single varieties are best 
for winter forcing ; the Roman White for early 
blooming. Its bells are small, pure white, very 
fragrant and each bulb produces from three to five 
spikes. They may be grown in three-inch pots and 
will bloom by the first of December if started in 
September. 

The brilliant little blue Amethyst Hyacinth of 
Europe has flowers small, drooping and exquisitely 
fragrant, and is perfectly hardy. 



HYDRANGEA. 

The Hydrangea is named from hydor, water, and 
aggeion, a vessel ; the capsule of some of the species 
has been compared to a cup, The plant is a dwarf 
shrub, introduced into cultivation in 1736 from Vir- 
ginia. Though blooming only in summer it is an 
old favorite, on kcconnt of the great beauty of its 
flowers as well as its hardiness. 



HYDRANGEA. 



I07 



SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

A soil of loam enriched with leaf-mold and man- 
ure is suitable. 

While growing they should have a plentiful sup- 
ply of water, but none while resting. 

Ripened cuttings root freely, if planted in any 
sheltered situation. Flowers are produced on the 
shoots of the previous year, and are larger on 
young plants than those three or more years old- 
Most varieties require shade, as the hot sun injures 
their foliage. They may be grown in a tub and 
wintered in the cellar. The color of the pink 
varieties will become blue if iron filings are mixed 
with the soil. 

Varieties. 

Hydrangea Hortensis, the old hardy variety, growing about two 
feet in height, flowers pink, changing to bluish purple. 

H. Imfieratrice Eugenie ', large heads of white flowers, tinted blue 
and pale rose. 

H. Japonica Variegata, a hardy plant, yet excellent for indoors 
during the summer. The leaves, deep green, marked with white,, 
burn on full exposure to our hot mid-summer suns. 

H. Lindleyii, a new species from Japan, with small heads of 
bright pink flowers. 

H. Otaska, similar in color to the common H. Hortensis y but 
much larger, flowering when the plants ^e quite small, in panicles 
of rosy-carmine flowers. 

H. Paniculata grandiflora, flowers in large white panicles or 
trusses six inches in length. The plant attains a height and breadth 
of four or five feet, the flowers slightly droop. Blooms from 
August to November. 



IPOMCEA — IRIS. 



IPOMCEA. 

Tnis phnt derives its name from ips, bindweed, 
and homoios, similar ; alluding to the twining habit 
of the plant. The Ipomoea is native of all warm 
climates, a few extending into North America. 
It belongs to the same family and is often called 
Morning Glory. Som : of the varieties of Ipomoea 
are very large and excel the best Convolvulus ; 
others like the Ipomoea Quamoclit, (Cypress Vine), 
have small bright colored flowers with a dainty 
fragrance. They are generally more delicate than 
the Convolvulus, more desirable for house culture, 
and some are eminently beautiful, combining mar- 
vellously brilliant colors with white margins. 

For the general treatment of Ipomoea, see that of 
Convolvulus. 

VARIETIES. 

Ipomcea Coccinea, or Star Ipomoea, small scarlet flowers. 
/. Bona A r ox, flowers large white. 

/. Grandiflora superba, fine large flowers, sky-blue with broad 
border of white. 

/. Limbata elegantissima, large flowers, mazarine blue with broad 
border of white. 

7. Quamoclit, or Cypress Vine, tender climber, flowers small, 
elegant and striking, foliage beautiful. 

IRIS. 

The Iris or Flowering Flag, as it is sometimes 
called, or Fieur dc Lis of the French, is a well- 
known family of hardy border plants. Linnaeus 



IRIS. 



IOg 



named it from iris, the eye ; alluding to the variety 
and beauty of the colors of its flowers. The Iris is 
found in damp regions in every quarter of the globe, 
and has been cultivated in gardens more than three 
hundred years. The flowers of some of the species 
have a rich fragrance and rare combination of 
colors. Of the many hundred varieties the bulbous- 
rooted are the only ones that should be grown in 
pots. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Iris thrives best in a soil of sandy loam and 
leaf-mold. 

Water them freely when in full growth, and very 
little at other times. 

They are increased by seeds, or offsets from the 
roots. For winter blooming three or four bulbs 
may be planted in a six-inch pot in September or 
October, and kept in a cold frame or cellar until 
they are wanted for flowering, when they may be. 
brought to the window, the varieties which bloom 
earliest first. Water them moderately and increase 
the supply as growth advances. After blooming 
they will require no water until October, when they 
should be re-potted in fresh soil. 

VARIETIES. 

Iris Pavonia, or Peacock Iris, well adapted for pots, the bulbs 
are no larger than peas. 

/. Persica, possessing a delicious fragrance equal to that of the 
violet ; the colors white, blue, purple and violet. 

/. Susiana, the most desirable variety for winter, as it blooms 



110 IRIS — IXIAS. 

earliest. This variety and / Persica will bloom as the Hyacinth, 
in water. 

The variety of the Spanish Iris bloom later than the foregoing. 



IXIAS. 

The Ixias, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, 
are bulbous plants of graceful habit, and flowers of 
almost every conceivable shade of color. Many 
varieties have three or more diverse colors in a 
single flower. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Ixias thrive in a soil composed of sandy 
loam and peat, or leaf -mold, with a little well-rotted 
manure 

Water should be given freely when in growth 
and withheld during the season of rest. 

The temperature best suited to them is about 40 
at night and 6o° by day. 

They are mainly increased from offsets, which 
are freely produced. Plants can also be raised from 
seed, which should be sown about the first of Oc- 
tober. When they have had one year's growth re- 
pot in fresh soil and treat as old bulbs. They will 
bloom the third year, if properly managed. Old 
bulbs die and leave a number of offsets, which 
should be separated when re-potted, and they will 
soon make flowering plants. 

Bulbs for winter blooming should be planted 
anew in November, shaking off the old soil and 



IXIAS — JASMINE. 



Ill 



putting three or more bulbs in a four-inch pot hav- 
ing good drainage. Set them in a cool place until 
growth commences, and then in the window, as 
near the glass as possible, taking care not to give 
them too high a temperature ; forcing diminishes 
the size and number of the flowers. In January 
the flower stalks will appear ; they should be tied 
to sticks as they are frail and slender. After 
blooming the leaves turn yellow, indicating that the 
plants need rest. Dry the bulbs off gradually and 
store them in a dry place. The varieties should not 
be mixed ; the bulbs in a dry state are very similar 
and each pot should be labeled. 

VARIETIES. 

Ixia, Alba Oculata, color white, shading to yellow with a dark 
chocolate eye. 

I, Capitata, flowers white and black. 

/ Zoiichiflora, a strikingly beautiful variety, with long buff-col- 
ored flowers. 

/ Crispa, flowers blue. 
/. Erecta, white or rlesh color. 
/. Kerinisiana, vermilion. 
/. Leucantha, white. 

I. Viridiflora, leaves slender, flower spike long, producing from 
ten to thirty flowers ; the petals are of a peculiar vivid green, black 
at the base, stamens large and yellow, a very fine free-bloomer. 



JASMINE. 

The name Jasmium is derived, according to Lin- 
naeus from ia y a violet, and osme y smell ; others as- 
sert that it is tromysmym, the Arabic name of the 



112 



JASMINE. 



plant. It is a native of the East Indies and S. 
Europe. It is a climbing shrub with neat foliage 

and white and yellow flowers of exquisite fragrance, 
due to the essential oil which pervades them, and 
for which some of the species are extensively culti- 
vated. They usually bloom from February to June ; 
some varieties from the East Indies bloom the year 
round. 

SOIL, AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The jasmine does well in soil of equal parts of 
sandy loam and peat or leaf-mold. 

They should have a plentiful supply of water. 

They thrive in the usual temperature of living 
rooms. 

Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely in sand 
or soil under glass. 

They are sometimes infested with scale, which 
may be removed by frequent washings. They 
should be trained to a trellis and the branches al- 
lowed to droop. 

VARIETIES. 

Jasmine Grandiflomm, or Catalonian Jasmine, a winter-flowering 
variety, blooming constantly from October to May ; flowers pure 
white, deliciously fragrant, a species cultivated for the essential 
oil. 

J. Odoratissimum^ yellow flowers. 

Rei'ohitum, a rapid grower, attaining a height of ten feet ; 
flowers yellow, very fragrant. 



LACHENALIA LANTANA. 



113 



LACHENALIA. 

The Lachenalia, named in honor of W. de la 
Chenal, a botanical author, is a native of the Cape 
of Good Hope. It is a genus of bulbous plants 
seldom attaining a foot in height, with foliage 
variegated with black. The flowers are pendulous 
high-colored tubes produced in upright spikes. 
They bear forcing remarkably well, and may be 
made to flower at almost any season. 

SOIL, TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The soil best adapted to the growth of these 
plants is a mixture of peat, or leaf -mold and sand. 

Give them plenty of water while in growth but 
none during the season of rest 

They thrive in a temperature of 5 5 to 65 or 70 
degrees. 

They may be increased by offsets of the bulbs, 
or by seeds. Pot the bulbs in October, rive them 
the ordinary care, growing them as near the glass 
as possible, and they will bloom in January and 
February. 

Lachenalia fragrens, flowers white and red. 

L. Pe?zdiila, flowers white and red. 

L. Qiiadricolor, flowers red, yellow and purple. 



LANTANA. 

Lantana is an ancient name of Viburnum, to 
which its foliage bears a resemblance. It belongs 
to the same natural order as the Verbena. The 

8 



H4 



LANTANA. 



Lantana is a native of Mexico, the West Indies 
and South America, and was introduced into cul- 
tivation in 1692. It is a rapid grower forming a 
small bushy shrub and producing compact heads of 
flowers of different and changing hues in great 
abundance. Its curious mingling of colors invest 
the plant with peculiar interest — white, crimson, 
scarlet, orange and yellow sometimes appearing in 
the same flower. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

It thrives in a sandy loam enriched with a little 
manure. 

Give plenty of water while in flower. 

It should have rather a high temperature and a 
sunny location to bloom freely. 

The Lantana is easily propagated from seeds or 
cuttings ; the latter root easily in water or sand. 

This plant bears pruning freely and may be 
trained in almost any shape. It should be re-pot- 
ted every spring and cut back freely. Towards 
fall pinch off the buds and give less water to 
harden the wood. Its growth and bloom is accel- 
erated by a weekly application of liquid manure. 
Wash the foliage frequently to keep off insects. 
Plants too large for the window may be wintered 
in a damp, dark cellar without water. 

VARIETIES. 
Lantana, alba grandiflora, large white flower. 
L. Alba lutea grandiblora, white yellow centre. 
Z. Alba perfecta, pure white, very fine. 



LANTANA — LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA. 1 1 5 



Z, Aurantiaca, bright orange. 
Z. Clotilda, pink, yellow centre. 
L, Delicatissima, deep lilac. 
Z. Euge nie, rose and white 
Z. Flava Lilacina, lilac and orange. 
L. Grand Sultan, purple and yellow. 
L. Henderso7iii, rose, center white. 
Z. King of Roses, scarlet and orange. 

Z. Lina Etinger, straw color; dwarf and profuse bloomer. 
Z. Marcella, lilac rose, changing to yellow. 
Z. Monfeck, crimson ; compact habit. 
Z. Raphael, purple, orange and rose. 
Z. Triumph, dark orange. 



LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA. 

The Libonia is a neat growing shrub with shin- 
ing green foliage, attains a height and breadth of 
twelve or fifteen inches and bears flowers an inch 
in length, scarlet orange at the base shading into 
deep yellow at the top. It is a valuable winter 
house plant as it blooms profusely from December to 
May. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Libonia thrives in a soil composed of three 
parts sandy loam and one of manure. 

It requires a moderate supply of water. 

A temperature of from 55° to jo° suits it best, 
though it endures a greater variation. 

It is easily increased by cuttings, which root 
readiLv in damp sand under glass. 



Il6 LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA — LINARIA. 



The plant will survive much ill treatment and 
requires little care. An occasional washing to 
freshen and free its foliage from insects is benefi- 
cial. 



LINARIA CYMBALARIA. 

(COLISEUM IVY.) 

The genus Linaria is named from the resemb- 
lance of the leaves to linum, flax. The little trail- 
ing Linaria Cymbalaria, a- native of England, is said 
to grow on the ruins of the Roman coliseum, hence 
its common name. It has slender purplish stems 
and small, bright-green, five-lobed leaves with purple 
linings, and minute lilac, white, and yellow-tinted 
flowers, somewhat like those of the Antirrhinum or 
Snap Dragon, to which it is allied. It is a rapid 
grower and will produce hundreds of trailing sprays 
four or five feet in length in a few months, com- 
pletely covering a vase or hanging basket. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Linaria thrives in a soil of equal parts loam 

and leaf-mold. 

A moderate supply of water with good drainage 
is essential. 

It likes a temperature from 6o° to jo Q and grows 
well in living-rooms. 



LIN ARIA CYMBAL ARIA LOBELIA. 



117 



It is increased by seeds or cuttings. Seeds self- 
sow by falling in surrounding pots, and cuttings 
strike readily in clamp sand or soil. The foliage 
is injured by the noon-day sun. It likes east or west 
windows and grows best in partial shade. It is not 
troubled with insects and requires little care. 



LOBELIA. 

This plant named in honor of Mathew Lobel, 
physican and botanist to James L, and author, is 
extensively used for bedding, edging, or rockeries. 
The genus is found in all countries but the varie- 
ties most in cultivation came originally from the 
Cape of Good Hope. The Lobelia has graceful 
foliage, a profusion of delicate flowers usually ran- 
ging from intense blue to white, and is suitable for 
hanging baskets. 

SOIL GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

Lobelia thrives in a sandy loam, enriched with 
leaf -mold or rotted manure, 

It requires a plentiful supply of water and rather 
a high temperature. 

It is usually increased by seeds which may be 
planted into pots in June and covered but slighrly 
as they are very small. The buds should be 
pinched off through the fall, and the strength of the 
plants-given to growth. 



n8 



LOBELIA MAHERINA. 



Lobelia Erinus, in varieties, best for bedding. 

L. Speciosa, fine for pots yielding a long succession of intense 
azure-blue flowers, with darker foliage than the others. 

L. Gracilis \ a delicate growing variety, dark blue ; fine for hang- 
ing baskets 

L. Gracilis Alba, white. 

Z. Gracilis Compacta, blue and white ; fine variety. 



MAHERNIA. 

The name of this plant, an anagram of Herman- 
nia, signifies affinity. Mlahernia is a native of the 
Cape of Good Hope. It is a valuable constant bloom- 
ing plant, bearing a profusion of bell-shaped lemon- 
colored flowers possessing a fragrance not unlike 
that of the Lily of the Valley. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

Mahernia thrives in a sandy loam enriched with 
a little manure. 

It should have a plentiful supply of water but 
not enough to make the soil sodden. 

The plant is easily increased by young cuttings 
taken at a joint, and started in damp sand or soil 
under glass. Transplant them to small pots when 
the roots are half an inch long. 

It has a tendency to grow straggling which can 
be restrained somewhat by tying the stem to an 
upright support and frequently pinching off the 



MAHERINA MATHIOLA. 



too luxuriant growth. Give it an application of 
liquid fertilizer once a week. 

Maker nia odorata, the variety most commonly grown, flowers 
yellow, exquisitely fragrant. 



MATHIOLA. 

(STOCK.) 

This plant named in honor of Mathiola, a botanic 
author, is a native of England and South Europe. 
Stock is a valuable garden plant. Its good habit, 
fine foliage, beautiful flowers of almost every desir- 
able and delicate tint, and delicious fragrance fit 
it also for the window. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Stocks are best grown in sandy loam enriched 
with leaf-mold and a little manure. 

They should have a regular and plentiful supply 
of water, and if possible a moist atmosphere. 

They like rather a cool temperature but endure 
the ordinary air of living-rooms. 

The double varieties give no seed except through 
treatment known to skilful florists. They may be 
increased by cuttings rooted in damp sand under 
glass. The seeds of single-flowering plants that 
grow near many double ones will sometimes pro- 
duce double-flowering plants. 

The biennial or Brompton stocks may be grown 



I2G 



MATH I OLA MAURANDYA. 



in pots from seeds sown in July and August and 
will bloom late in the following winter, if not kept 
too hot and dry, after which they may be transferred 
to the garden for summer flowering, and removed 
to the house in the fall. They will last a number 
of years if protected from frost. If not wanted for 
winter blooming they may be kept in a cellar till 
March w? en thay may be brought forward and will 
soon bloom, 

VARIETIES. 

Brompton Stock, best suited for pot culture, a biennial, of larger 
growth than the annual, stmetimes bearing spikes of compact 
flowers nearly a foot in length. 

Emperor, a hybrid between the Brompton and annul I. 

Intermediate Stoek, blooms late in fall from seed sown in spring, 
and earlv in spring from seed sown in July and August. 

Ten-weeks-stock, (German) is an annual valuable for long con- 
tinuance in bloom and vigorous habit. 



MAURANDYA, 

The Maurandia, named in honor of Dr. Maurandy, 
professor of botany at Carthagena, is native of 
Mexico. It is a delicate twining plant attaining 
a height of five feet, bearing bell-shaped flowers in 
shades o. blue, white and mauve. Its graceful 
habit, abundant foliage, and rapid growth fit it 
admirably for hanging baskets or a trellis. 



MAURANDYA : 



■MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. 



121 



SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Maurandya, thrives in a light loam enriched 
with leaf-mold. 

It requires a plentiful supply of water, and does 
well in the ordinary temperature of living-rooms. 

The plant grows readily from seeds or cuttings. 
The latter should be started in damp sand under 
glass in June to make strong plants by fall. Plant 
seed in light rich soil in June. Give plenty of sun 
and when flower buds appear apply liquid fertilizer 
once a week till blooming is past. Shower or wash 
them freque J y to keep off spiders. 

Maurandya Bar clay ana^xv exceedingly pretty climber will cover 
a small tre. Is i:. "wo r X three months ; flowers blue and white. 
M. Barclaya7ia purpurea grandiflora, dark blue. 



MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. 

This plant named from mesembria y mid-day, and 
anthemon, a flower, is an extensive genus mostly 
natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They are suc- 
culent plants, easily cultivated, adapted for hanging 
oaskets or vases. The varieties most common are the 
Ice Plant and Dew Plant. The Ice-plant has thick 
fleshy leaves and stems, covered with little shining 
globules, resembling ice. The flowers are small 
white and unimportant. The Dew-plant has a smooth 
light-green, dewy-looking leaf, a graceful slender 
6 



122 



MESEMBRYANTEMUM MIMOSA. 



habit, and a pretty pink flower. Both are drooping 
plants. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Mesembryanthemum thrives in a light sandy 
loam, needs plenty of sunshine and water with but 
ordinary care. 

It is increased by seeds or cuttings. The latter 
should be allowed to dry a little after planting, be- 
fore watering. It flowers most profusely in a hot 
dry atmosphere doing better in hanging baskets 
than pots and fully exposed to the sun. 

Mesembryanthemum anranticum _ orange. 

M. Cordifolium y M. Deitoiditm and /)/. Glaiiaim, are pink. 

M. Blandi(7n and M.Nitidum, are white. 

M. Cordifolium Variegatum, leaves white, and green ; purple 
flowers ; used extensively in public grounds about London. 

M. Crystallimim, has a creeping stem about a foot in length 
which with the leaves have the appearance of being covered 
with dew or frost, hence its common name. 



MIMOSA. 

(SENSITIVE PLANT.) 

The Mimosa is named from mimos, a mimic ; 
the leaves of many of the species seem to sport 
with the hand that touches them. M. Pudica, 
the species most sensitive, is a native of Brazil. It 
is often cultivated in the open border, or in pots, 
for the interest excited by the singularly sensitive 



MIMOSA MIMULUS. 



123 



nature of the leaves, which if touched at once begin 
slowly to close, and if touched near the base of a 
leaf stalk not only will the leaflets close but the 
leaf stalk droop as if broken 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Mimosa likes a sandy loam and leaf-mold 
soil. 

It thrives with ordinary care as to water and 
temperature. 

It is increased by seeds, or cuttings of the young 
wood rooted in sand under glass. Plants for win- 
ter may be started in spring and repotted in fall. 



MIMULUS. 

From its gaping corolla this plant has received 
the common name of Monkey Flower ; the word 
Mimulus is from mimo, an ape or actor. It is a 
beautiful and tender plant with almost transparent 
branches, bearing gorgeous flowers with gold or 
white ground mottled with maroon and crimson, a 
great addition to any collection. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Mimulus thrives in garden soil enriched 
with leaf-mold. 

It requires plenty of water, often needs it twice 
a day and thri\ res in the usual atmosphere of the 
house. 



T24 MIMULUS MYRSIPHYLLUM ASPARAGOIDES. 



It is increased by seeds, divisions o: the roots, or 
lay cuttings which may be rooted in water, or soil 
under glass. 

Mimulus Lutens, comprises numerous varieties, with white, sul- 
phur and yellow grounds, spotted with crimson, scarlet, pink etc. 
A double variety called Hose-upon-hose, is very remarkable 

Mimulus moschatttS) or Musk Plant grown for the odor of musk 
in its leaves ; fl nvers yellow. 



MYRSIPHYLLUM ASPARAGOIDES. 

(SMILAX.) 

This twining plant named from myrsine a myrtle, 
and pJiyllon, a leaf ; alluding to the resemblance of 
the leaves, is a native of the Cape of Good Hope. 
It is commonly known as Smilax, and is extensive- 
ly grown by florists for decorative purposes. It has 
a sinuous stem with alternating glossy green leaves, 
giving it a remarkably graceful appearance. It will 
remain fresh hours after it has been cut, and this 
unusual quality makes it highly valuable for orna- 
menting rooms, tables, or dresses, and it is by 
many considered indispensable for decorations on 
festive occasions. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Smilax thrives in a mixture of loam and leaf- 
mold. 

It should be watered carefully, giving but little 
when the plants are young, slightly increasing the 



MYRSIPHYLLUM ASPARAGOIDES MYRTUS. 125 



supply as growth advances, and withholding it 
gradually at maturity. 

It endures the ordinary house temperature, and 
does not require a very sunny location, but will 
thrive in a partly shaded window or on a bracket. 

Smilax is propagated by off-sets from the parent 
bulb, or from seed. 

Pot the bulbs early in September and water very 
little until growth commences. Give them plenty 
of fresh air, but protect them from cold draughts 
when young, as they are very tender. The leaves- 
will turn yellow when nature indicates that the 
plant needs rest ; let the bulbs gradually dry off and 
put them away in a cool place until September, 
then repot in fresh soil. Give them liquid manure 
occasionally. They are often injured by the red 
spider, the remedy for which is frequent immer- 
sions or showerings; if neither of these are conve- 
nient dust them with red pepper. The vine re- 
quires some support, strings or threads will answer 
the purpose. 



MYRTUS. 

(MYRTLE.) 

The Myrtle is a hard wood evergreen shrub, pos- 
sessing an agreeable fragrance, a native of South 
Europe, Xew T Holland and China. The name is 
from myrou, perfume. It was considered by the 



126 



MYRTUS NARCISSUS. 



ancients sacred to Venus. The brows of bloodless 
victors were adorned with myrtle wreaths, and at 
Athens it was an emblem of civic authority. It is 
used in religious ceremonies by the Jews. Its ele- 
gant form and fragrance make it desirable for the 
house. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The myrtle is suited with a sandy loam enriched 
with one-fourth leaf-mold. 

Water moderately and wash the foliage fre- 
quently. 

It is increased by cuttings which if not too ripe 
root freely either in sand or soil. 

The myrtle does not require large pots, likes 
plenty of sun and air during the growing season, 
but flourishes well in almost any situation. If put 
out door in summer it should have a shady loca- 
tion. 

Myrtus communis^ the common parlor myrtle of which there are 
several varieties ; small, large, or variegated leaved, and single and 
double-flowered. 

M. tennifolia, a fine plant from New Holland. 

M. to??zentosa, of China, purple flowers changing to white, sev- 
eral shades on the same plant at once ; does not endure the hot 
sun. 



NARCISSUS. 

The Narcissus is named from narke, stupor ; on 
account of the effect produced by the smell upon 



NARCISSUS. 



127 



the nerves. In mythology Narcissus was a beauti- 
ful youth enamored of his own image as seen in a 
fountain, who was changed into the flower there- 
after called by his name. The Narcissus is an old 
and popular class of beautiful flowers ; some of the 
species are highly fragrant. They include the well- 
known Daffodil and Jonquil. Most of the varieties 
are hardy, and should be planted in autumn and 
may remain in the ground a number of years. 
When they become matted together a division of 
the roots is* necessary. The most beautiful class of 
this family is the Polyanthus Narcissus which is 
not hardy in New England, but is unsurpassed for 
flowering, in the hoire. They have glossy or leek- 
like leaves ; produce flowers in clusters of from 
five to twenty, ranging from pure white to deep 
orange ; are very fragrant and continue in perfec- 
tion a long time. The Jonquils are also desirable 
for winter flowering. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Narcissus wants a light rich soil of loam, 
leaf-mold and a little sand. 

They require plenty of water when in growth 
and flower ; less after the blooming season is past. 

They are increased by offsets from the bulbs. 

To force the Narcissus for winter bloom, plant 
the bulbs in September, one in a pot not less than 
five inches across, and keep them at a low temper- 
ature until Christmas, when they will be well rooted 



128 



NARCISSUS NERIUM OLEANDER. 



and ready to flower rapidly. After blooming they 
should continue growth in the pots and if conve- 
nient be plunged during summer in the garden 
They should not be disturbed until the bulbs and 
roots completely fill the pots and growth has 
stopped ; then remove the outside bulbs leaving 
the centre in a solid mass, and repot for the next 
season. 

VARIETIES OF NARCISSUS POLYANTHUS, 

Bazelmau Major, fine white. 

Double Roman, white and yellow, fragrant. 

Gloriosnm super bum, white with deep orange cup. 

Grand Monarque, white with yellow cup. 

Grand Soliel d'Or, bright yellow, deep orange cup. 

Grooiverst, white. 

Newton, yellow and orange. 

Staten General, handsome lemon. 

VARIETIES OF NARCISSUS JONQUILLA. 

Jonqnills, natives of Spain, large double and single, blossoms 
yellow and fragrant, both varieties very desirable for forcing ; 
three or four can be grown in a small pot and they may be bloomed 
any month of the year. 



NERIUM OLEANDER. 

This genus is named from neros, humid ; allud- 
ing to the habitat of the plants. Oleander is de- 
rived from words literally signifying rose-tree. The 
plant was introduced into cultivation from South 
Europe, in 1596. It is common on the banks of 
the Jordan and throughout Palestine, in moist situ- 



NERIUM OLEANDER. 



129 



ations. The Oleander is too well known to need 
description. It is easily cultivated and has hand- 
some foliage. It will bloom most of the year if 

properly treated, and when resplendent with rose- 
colored, white or variegated blossoms it is unsur- 
passed, being perhaps the most suitable of all hard 
wood plants for the window. 

SOIL, WATERING AND PROPAGATION. 

A light, rich soil, as equal parts of garden loam 
and leaf -mold suits it. 

The Oleander wants an abundance of water 
when in growth or bloom ; but little during its sea- 
son of rest and if wintered in the cellar none at all. 

It prefers a moist atmosphere of from 50 to 70°, 
yet will endure extreme heat. 

It is easily increased by cuttings of the young 
wood which root in any soil if kept moist. They 
may be most conveniently started in vials of water. 
Cut the slips just below the fourth leaf joint, re- 
move the lower leaves without injuring the bark, 
and place about one inch in the water. Roots will 
appear in from five to ten weeks. After an abund- 
ance have formed 'set out the plant in a four-inch 
pot, and place it in a moist, shaded location for a 
fortnight when it may be set in the sun and watered 
freely. If the slip was severed when in the proper 
condition the plant will bloom in a few months. 
Slips made from a growing plant will root and 

bloom sooner than from one in a dormant state. 
6* q 



130 



NERIUM OLEANDER. 



GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Oleander bears pruning freely. To prevent 
an injurious flow of sap sear the wounded part with 
a hot iron. It thrives in a comparatively small pot. 
For a plant four feet in height a tub nine inches in 
diameter and the same depth is ample. To rest the 
plant through the summer, and prepare it for win- 
ter flowering, sink the pot in the open ground and 
give it but sufficient water to keep it alive. About 
the first of September, shift it to a tub or pot two 
inches larger, not disturbing the old soil, and water 
thoroughly. As soon as growth commences place 
the plant on a sunny porch, and give weekly ap- 
plications of liquid fertilizer. Remove before frost 
comes, to a cool room, that the change indoors may 
not be too abrupt. A south window is best until 
the buds begin to open, after which the blossoms 
will remain in perfection longer in a west window, 
than if exposed to the noonday sun. Each flower 
should remain perfect two weeks. The peduncle 
or flower-stalk should not be cut away as long as 
there is a bud at the end. These stems often con- 
tinue to bear blossoms a year or more. The buds 
are apt to blast in the hot dry air of rooms. Fre- 
quent sprinkling, or immersing them daily in warm 
water will in part prevent this. Showering is al- 
ways beneficial to them. The Oleander in its na- 
tive region endures the heat and drouth of an east- 
ern summer, but blossoms in the wet season when 



NERIUM OLEADER OXALIS. I3I 

the rivers overflow their banks and its roots are 
immersed in water. When forcing for bloom they 
can scarcely be given too much water if supplied 
with good drainage, and it may be applied quite hot. 
Wash plants infested with slugs frequently in warm 
soap-suds. 



OXALIS. 

The Oxalis, or Wood Sorrel, named from oxys, 
acid ; in allusion to the acid taste of the leaves, is 
an extensive genus embracing annuals, bulbous 
and tuberous rooted plants and shrubs. They are 
found in all countries. The best known and most 
beautiful of the germs is Oxalis versicolor, a winter 
flowering bulb, very easy to cultivate, bearing clus- 
ters of delicate little white, yellow, rose and crim- 
son blossoms in great profusion and well adapted 
for hanging baskets. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Oxalis should have a soil of equal parts sandy 
loam and leaf-mold. 

Like all bulbs they need plenty of water while in 
growth. 

They thrive in the high temperature of living 
rooms and like a sunny window. 

They are usually increased by offsets. 

The bulbs of the Oxalis, which 'are quite small 
should be planted in early fall, six or seven in a 



132 



OX^Lio PASSIFLORA. 



pot or hanging basket. Contrasting colors placed 
together have a pleasing effect. As soon as growth 
commences, water freely, and by December amass 
of foliage and flowers will be produced. They will 
continue to bloom until June when they should be 
dried off and given three months complete rest 
either by turning their pots on their sides or re- 
moving the bulbs from the earth to a dark dry 
place. The Oxalis is likely to be infested with the 
red spider and should be occasionally immersed in 
soap suds. 

The best varieties for the window garden are 
Oxalis canescens y purple, O. cuneifolia, white, O, 
jlavci) yellow, and O. nmltiflora, lilac. 



PASSIFLORA. 

(PASSION FLOWER.) 

The Passiflora is named from passio> passion, and 
floSy flower ; the several parts of the flower are com- 
pared to the instruments of the Saviour's passion. 
It has become an emblem in the Roman Church. 
The plant is a climbing vine of rapid growth, na- 
tive of Brazil where it reaches a height of thirty 
feet with a stem three or four inches thick. Its 
abundant foliage, handsome palmate leaves, large 
and singularly beautiful flowers renders it an effec- 
tive ornamental climber for bay windows 7)r the 
conservatory. 



PASSIFLORA. 



133 



SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Passiflora thrives in a soil of loam and leaf- 
mold enriched with a little well-rotted manure. 

It requires only a small supply of water and does 
best in a rather dry soil. 

It should have a temperature of from 60 to 75 
degrees and a sunny window. 

The Passiflora is easily increased by cuttings 
rooted in damp sand. 

Cuttings' started in May or June make good 
plants the following winter. They may be planted 
in a dry sunny location in the open ground and if 
carefully taken up in the fall, kept shaded a few 
days and gradually accustomed to the house, will 
make fine window climbers. Train them upon 
strings or a trellis. If a plant is so large that room 
cannot be spared it in the window, winter it in the 
cellar and cut back the old growth well before set- 
ting out in the spring. The roots of large plants 
require plenty of room and are best grown in a 
window box. The foliage is not troubled with in- 
sects. 

Passiflora alata, blue and white. 

P. Cwidea, blue, and P. pfordti, purple. 

P. Tacsouia, exoniensis, brilliant rose pink. 

P. Trifasciata, varigated leaves having a broad band of deep 
rose color through the centre. 
P. Volxemi, crimson and white. 



134 



PELARGONIUM OR GERANIUM. 



PELARGONIUM OR GERANIUM. 

Pelargonium from pelargos, a stork, and Geran- 
ium from geranos, a crane ; their capsules may be 
fancied to resemble the head and beak of those 
birds, are names given to genera of plants of the 
order Geraniacece. As florists disregard the bot- 
anical distinctions between them, and most plants 
belonging to the genus Pelargonium are generally 
known as Geranium we will follow the common usage 
of names. They are principally native of the Cape 
of good Hope. By artificial hybridization, or cut- 
ting out the anthers of the plant intended for the 
female parent before they burst, and impregnating 
the stigmas with the pollen of another an endless va- 
riety of Geraniums have been produced. They are 
to be seen in some form in every collection of 
plants. A New England lady with only the ordi- 
nary window room of a country home has cultivated 
over a hundred varieties. 

The Pelargonium or Geranium in cultivation may 
be divided into four classes having a marked differ- 
ence in their appearance or habit of growth, and in 
order to simplify the subject we will group them as 
follows : — 

The Zouales, including the Silver-leaved, Bronze- 
leaved, Tricolor, and Lilliputian varieties both sin- 
gle and double ; the most extensively cultivated 
class. The beautiful foliage of many of these is a 
bouquet in itself, they are also constant bloomers, 
and may be termed the " marked-foliage " class. 



PELARGONIUM OR GERANIUM. 



135 



The Sweet-scented varieties, as the Rose, Lemon, 
etc. ; grown for foliage rather than flowers. 

Pelargoniums, distinguished for large richly col- 
ored flowers, in every shade of carmine, orange, 
crimson, blackish-maroon, and white, disposed and 
blended in so varied a manner as to defy descrip- 
tion. Though not constant bloomers like the Zon- 
ales, the wonderful beauty and richness of their 
flow r ers renders them highly desirable. 

Ivy-leaved Geraniums, of a climbing or trailing 
habit, forming a distinct class, cultivated both for 
beauty of foliage and flowers. 

SOIL, WATERING, TEMPERATURE AND PROPAGATION 
OF THE ZONALE CLASS. 

They flourish in a strong sandy loam enriched 
with leaf-mold or well rotted manure. 

They require a moderate and regular supply of 
water. Good drainage should be provided. 

The temperature best suited to them is from 45 
at night to 65 during the day, though they flourish 
in the hot air of living rooms. 

They are increased by seeds or cuttings. Seeds 
may be sown on a light soil, thinly covered with 
leaf-mold and germinated under glass. Remove the 
young plants to small pots as soon as they have a 
fifth or sixth leaf, and shift to larger ones as often 
as the roots fill the pots. Cuttings root readily in 
sand, and somewhat less easily in soil, unprotected 
by glass. They require from two to six weeks ac- 



PELARGONIUM OR GERANIUM. 



cording to the condition of the wood, that sufficien- 
tly hardened to snap when broken rooting first. 
When the roots are well started set the cuttings 
in small pots. The varieties which are cultivated 
for flowers should be shifted to larger ones only as 
they become pot bound. Those grown for foliage 
may have larger pots and be supplied with fresh 
soil before they fill them with roots. 

GENERAL TREATMENT OF THE ZONALE CLASS. 

Young plants bloom freest and are most suitable 
for the window ; a succession should be constantly 
provided. Cuttings started in June will make fine 
plants for the following winter. They should not 
be allowed to bloom until November ; from that 
time they will flower constantly if not placed in 
too large pots. Supplied with too much over-rich 
soil they run to foliage. As little earth as possible 
and a small amount of liquid hen-manure applied 
once in two weeks will force blooming. They are 
rarely troubled with insects and require very little 
care except an occasional washing or showering to 
remove dust. 

If old plants are to be used for the window, they 
should be pruned closely and given a soil gener- 
ously enriched with manure. Use rather small 
pots, as they will not bloom freely in a large quan- 
tity of earth. Plants too large for the window may 
be wintered in a dry cellar. Shake off the earth 
and hang them up by the roots. They should be 



PELARGONIUM OR GERANIUM. 



137 



thoroughly pruned when set out in the spring, 
and will make as fine bedding-out plants, as those 
which have been growing through the winter. 

There are a host of named varieties of Geraniums 
and the number is constantly increasing ; it is 
therefore useless to attempt an extended list. A 
few w T hich are known to be fine are given below ; 
there are hundreds of others which equal or excel 
them. 

VARIETIES OF ZONALES CULTIVATED FOR FLOWERS. 

Scarlet. General Grant ; King of Scarlets ; Jean Sisley, white eye ; 
Father Ignatius ; Sir John Moore. 

Salmon. Bertha Fouche ; Md. Soussett, shaded white ; Prince of 
Wales, tipped white ; Amelia Grisseau, margined white ; Chas 
Reust, shaded white; Mrs. Geo. Smith ; Aurantia Striata. 

Pink. King of Pinks, deep pink; Queen of Pinks, pale pink; 
Master Christine ; Maid of Kent ; Md. De Bertrand. 

White. Theresa, carmine eye ; Snowflake, pure white ; Md. 
Wherle, pink eye, a favorite ; Emily Vauchier, red anthers. 

VARIETIES OF DOUBLE ZONALE GERANIUMS. 

Scarlet. Jewell, L'Annee Terrible, Asteroid, Andrew Henderson, 
Lativouia, La Promise, La Vesuve, Princess Teck, Victor Le- 
moine. 

Crimson. Refulgens, La Vengeur, Le Xegre, Emilio Castelar. 
Pink. Basalisk, Admiration, Emily Lemoine, Marie Lemoine. 
White. Aline Sisley, tinged carmine ; George Sand an improve- 
ment on Aline Sisley and the nearest approach to white. 

GERANIUMS CULTIVATED FOR FOLIAGE. 

Black Douglas, foliage yellow marked with a broad chocolate 
zone much resembling Pres. McMahon in its coloring, but its 
flowers are bright pink rendering it quite distinct. 

Distinction, a new variety, marked near the edge of the leaf with 
a very narrow zone of deep black. 



138 



PELARGONIUM OR GERANIUM. 



Happy Thought, large yellow blotch in the centre of the leaf with 
an outer band of green at the margin ; flowers rich magenta rose. 

Marshal McMahon, unequaled by any Geranium of its class 
ground color of the leaves golden yellow, marked with a deep 
chocolate ring. 

Mountain ofSnozv, one of the whitest of silver-leaved varieties. 
The centre of the leaf is bright green, the outer margin marked 
with silvery white, should not be exposed to the noonday sun, 
grows well in north windows. 

Mrs. Pollock, a tvpe of the class of Golden Tricolor Geraniums, 
which cannot be excelled in beauty of foliage. The ground color 
of the leaf is deep green, with a zone of bronze crimson, the mar- 
gin of which is tinted with scarlet : the flowers are dark scarlet in 
good sized trusses. The leaves are much used for bouquets in 
winter. 

GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES OF THE 
SWEET-SCENTED GERANIUMS. 

The Sweet-Scented Pelargoniums or Geraniums 
require the same soil, watering and temperature as 
the Zonales. Being cultivated for foliage only 
should be given larger pots. They are sure to be 
infested with aphis, the remedy for which is per- 
sistent fumigating. 

The principal Scented Geraniums are Apple, Citron, Lemon, 
Nutmeg, Penneroyal and Rose, whose names indicate their fra- 
grance. The Skeleton- Leaved varieties are especially beautiful and 
valuable for bouquet making or decorative purposes. 

Variegated Rose-scented, leaves fringed with creamy white, some- 
times assuming a purplish tinge. 

TREATMENT OF THE PELARGONIUM. 

The Pelargoniums that are commonly known as 
such require a richer soil and larger pots than the 
Zonales but thrive with the same treatment as to 



PELARGONIUM OR GERANIUM. 



139 



watering and temperature. They are propagated 
in the same manner, though cuttings root with 
more difficulty. They should be kept in pots and 
under glass through the summer, as they are in- 
jured by continued rains. They should be changed 
to larger pots as often as the roots begin to mat 
around the sides. The shoots should be pinched 
back until the flower buds begin to form, when 
they should be placed near the glass, and never 
allowed to wilt. They are not constant bloomers 
like the Zonales though often flowering from 
March or April on through the summer. They 
may be guarded against aphis by frequent fumiga- 
tions. 

The varieties of. this class are so extensive, and 
the markings of the flowers so varied and blended 
that it is impossible to describe them or give a list 
of named sorts of any value. 

TREATMENT AND VARIETIES OF THE IVY-LEAVED 
GERANIUM. 

The same soil, watering and general treatment 
given for the Zonales suits the Ivy-leaved Gera- 
niums. If a large growth of foliage is desired the 
roots should not be restricted. This class have 
been hybridized with the Zonales resulting in 
variegating the leaves with yellow, pink, and white, 
and in an approach to those of the Zonales in size 
and color of the flowers. Their foliage is of suffi- 
cient beauty to warrant their cultivation, yet their 



140 PELARGONIUM OR GERANIUM PETUNIA. 



value is greatly enhanced by the beauty and pro- 
fusion of their flowers through the spring and sum- 
mer months. 

Carmine, Diadem ; National, veined with white. 
Pink. Floribunda, Princess Alexandra. 

White. Bridal Wreath ; Innocence, Butterfly ; spotted with rose ; 
Speciosus, violet spotted. 

King Albert, a novelty, having the same habit as the single vari- 
eties, but flowers very double, a beautiful mauve color, lightly 
striped towards the centre with carmine. 



PETUNIA. 

The Brazilian name for tobacco, pehin, is ap- 
plied to Petunia because of its affinity for nicotiana, 
the popular narcotic. The white Petunia was 
found in 1823, by a botanical explorer, in Buenos 
Ayres, and a few years later a purple one was dis- 
covered. From these plain single plants have 
sprung many beautifully variegated varieties both 
single and double, marked with stripes and blotches 
of crimson. The brilliancy and variety of colors, 
duration and profusion of bloom makes the Petunia 
a showy plant, valuable for the window. Some of 
the varieties have a strong and agreeable fra- 
grance. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Petunia thrives in a mixture of sandy loam 
and vegetable mold. 

They require but a moderate supply of water, 



PETUNIA. 



and will grow in a soil so dry it would cause most 
plants to wither. 

The ordinary temperature of the house suits 
them ; they require plenty of sunshine. 

They are propagated from seeds or cuttings. 
The grandiflora varieties bear but few seeds and 
these are obtained with difficulty. The double 
varieties give no seed, except those produced by 
fertilizing single flowers with the pollen of the 
double. The single small-flowering varieties seed 
freely and self sow in the garden. Cuttings started 
in summer in damp sand will make blooming plants 
for the next winter. They require only small pots, 
should be shaded after transplanting and given 
very little water until they begin to grow, and then 
all the sunshine possible. Pinch off the first flower 
buds to induce a stocky growth. Both single and 
double Petunias may be grown in the open ground 
through the summer and potted in fall for winter 
blooming. 

There are hundreds of varieties of single Petu- 
nias, ranging through the shades of crimson and 
rose to pure white, striped mottled, and self- 
colored. 

VARIETIES OF DOUBLE PETUNIA. . 

Acteon, rose, varied with dark purple ; large. 
Ada, purple, crimson and white. 
Admiration, creamy white tinged with rose. 
American Belle, variegated crimson and white. 
Briqjsmaid, white shaded blush; very large. 



142 PETUNIA PHLOX DRUMMONDII. 



Coquette, shaded and blotched violet and purple. 
Elizabeth, pure white. 

Evolution, purple, spotted white ; fringed edge. 

Fimbriata, very large lilac ; fringed margin. 

Aid. de la Vergne, large, blush pink. 

Queen of Whites, white, fine formed flowers. 

Rosalind, violet. 

Sable Queen, purplish maroon. 

Snowball, pure white. 



PHLOX DRUMMONDII. 

The Phlox is named from the Greek, signifying 
a flame, in allusion to the appearance of the flowers. 
Phlox Drummondii was first discovered in Texas, 
in 1835, by Drummoftd, a collector sent out by the 
Glasgow Botanical Society. It is one of the most 
valuable annuals in cultivation and cannot be ex- 
celled in a brilliant and constant display of flowers, 
through the late summer and fail and if carefully 
lifted from the earth on the approach of winter will 
continue blooming a number of Weeks in the house. 
With good cultivation it grows about eighteen 
inches high, but does not stand erect. It flowers 
in clusters or corymbs, in colors ranging from pure 
white to deep crimson, also purple, yellow and 
striped. Crimson and white varieties grown in 
contrast produce a fine effect. 

SOIL AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Phlox thrives in loam enriched with leaf-mold 

and ma nun, 



PHLOX DRUMMONDII — POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. I43 



It requires only a moderate supply of water, and 
is not particular as to temperature. 

It is easily increased by seeds, or by cuttings 
under glass. Seeds may be sown in the open 
ground in May, or early in the spring in a hot-bed, 
or in boxes in the window. Plants may also be 
grown from seeds sown in pots in the summer and 
not allowed to bloom until they are brought into 
the house. They require no special care. 

VARIETIES OF PHLOX DRUMMONDII. 
Alba, pure while. 

Atr opt irp urea striata, beautifully striped. 
Coccinea, deep scarlet. 

Grandiflora splendens, a new variety with large round flowers ; 
bright scarlet with a conspicuous white eye. 
Heynholdi, bright scarlet ; dwarf and compact. 
Isabellina, pale yellow. 
Leopoldii, deep pink with white eye. 
Oculata, white with purple eye. 
Queen Victoria, violet, white eye. 
Rosea, pure rose color. 



POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. 

(TUBEROSE.) 

This plant is a native of the East Indies, and 
was first imported into Europe in 1629. The word 
Polianthes means literally many flowered. The de- 
licious fragrance and beauty of its white wax-like 
flowers make it greatly sought for on occasions 
alike^of joy and mourning. It is stated that five 



144 



POLIANTHES TUBEROSA, 



million bulbs are grown annually in the vicinity of 
New York. The Tuberose naturally flowers in 
August, but by having dry bulbs on hand they may 
be planted and forced into bloom at any time of 
year. Its blossoms are borne in spikes of twelve 
or more florets each. 

SOIL, WATERING AND PROPAGATION. 

The Tuberose thrives in a soil of equal parts of 
sandy loam, leaf-mold and well rotted manure. 

They should have a plentiful supply of water 
when in growth. 

The temperature should never be allowed to fall 
below 50 at night and should be kept as near 70 
as possible during the day. 

The Tuberose is increased by offsets, which un- 
der favorable circumstances make flowering bulbs 
the second season, offsets for propagation should 
be removed on taking up the old bulbs in the fall, 
and stored in a warm dry place through the winter ; 
a temperature less than 50 destroys the flower 
germ. Plant them about the first of June, in well 
manured earth, six inches apart, and four inches 
below the surface ; this depth tends to solidify the 
neck of the bulb and prevent decay. In a few 
weeks they will begin to grow, and by the end of 
October will be matured and ready to bloom the 
next season. Cut off the tops, not too near the 
bulbs, and put them in a warm dry place for the 
winter, or until wanted for forcing. 



POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. 



145 



GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Tuberose flowers but once, therefore the old 
bulb should be thrown away after removing the 
offsets. The failure of this plant to bloom, has 
been a frequent source of disappointment. The 
cause has been discovered to be that the flower- 
germ was destroyed by keeping the bulbs in too 
low a temperature. Select only those which show 
signs of germination from the centre of the bulbs. 

The Tuberose is a tropical plant and where sum- 
mers are short does not always flower before the 
approach of frost. In such latitudes bulbs may be 
planted early in spring, in the house, where they 
should have the warmest location and but little 
water. Remove them to the garden when the 
weather is warm and settled. They may be 
flowered in early winter, by planting the dry bulbs 
in July or August, using seven-inch pots. Set 
the bulb firmly in the soil, half an inch below the 
surface, and sink the pots to the rim in the garden, 
where they may remain until the cool nights of 
autumn. When removed to the house give them 
plenty of water, and never allow them to get dry 
while the buds are developing, as this will cause 
them to blast. 

BOTTOM HEAT AND VARIETIES. 

One of the essential points of succcess in forcing 

the Tuberose is to keep the soil a few degrees 

warmer than the surrounding atmosphere. This is 
7 .10 



I46 POLIANTHES TUBEROSA — PRIMULA CHINENSIS. 



an easy matter in the green-house, when the pipes 
or flues can be used, but it will require some in- 
genuity to form a substitute for this in the house. 
The Waltonian case will answer and the reservoir 
of the kitchen stove, pans of hot water, or pieces 
of stone heated are sometimes used, though a uni- 
form, regular heat is what" is required. A conve- 
nient way for those who have not the time to at- 
tend to the proper cultivation of this plant is to 
buy bulbs with the flower stalks started. 

PpUanthes iitberam plena,) is the species mainly grown ; but the 
single variety is valuable for its earliness, blooming in the open 
ground two weeks before the double. 

Pearl, is a dwarf variety with flowers nearly double the size of 
the older sort. 



PRIMULA CHINENSIS. 

(CHINESE PRIMROSE.) 

Primula, from primus, the first, is in allusion to 
the early flowering of the genus. The Chinese 
Primrose is a small but beautiful and constant 
blooming plant. For nine months in twelve they 
will yield flowers, a single plant producing 500 
florets. They bloom most profusely from Decem- 
ber to May, and with their colors, red, white, crim- 
son, purple, and pink, are of great value for the 
window. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Primrose grows well in equal parts of loam 
and leaf -mold. 



PRIMULA CHINENSIS. 



147 



They should have only a moderate supply of 
water, applied in small quantities daily. If the 
drainage is obstructed and the soil made too wet 
the plant will become sickly. The foliage should 
not be wet. 

The temperature of living rooms suits them. 

They are propagated from seeds, cuttings or by 
dividing the plants as soon as they have done 
flowering. Seeds sown in July, will make bloom- 
ing plants in January. When four or five leaves 
have developed transplant to 3-inch pots and shade 
a few days. Plants should have the morning or 
evening, but never the noonday sun. They will 
even do well in north windows. Cuttings taken 
from side shoots in May, will make blooming plants 
for fall and winter. 

The pots of Primrose may be plunged out of 
doors in June, in a shaded location and very spar- 
ingly watered through the summer. Repot them 
carefully in the fall, and shade a few days. They 
should not be crowded together, or with other 
plants. A window side-bracket is most suitable for 
them. They are never infested with insects. The 
single fringed varieties are best adapted to window 
culture as they are more hardy than the double. 

VARIETIES OF THE PRIMULA SINEUSIS. 

Fimbriate alba, single white. 
Fimbriata alba plena, double white, 

Fimbriata erecta superba alba-violasceus, pure white on opening, 
changing to lilac with reel border, free bloomer. 



I48 PRIMULA CHINENSIS PYRETHRUM. 



Filicifolia alba, white, fern-leaved, beautiful. 
Filicifolia rubra, red, fern-leaved. 

Kermesina splendens, bright carmine, with distinct yellow eye. 
Punctata elegantissima, deep velvety crimson, strongly fringed 
and regularly marked at the borders with snowy white. 
Rubra, red, and Rubra plena, double red. 



PYRETHRUM. 

(FEVERFEW.) 

The Pyrethrum named from pyr, fire, because 
the roots are hot to the taste, is a native of the 
Caucasus mountains ; it is often called Mountain 
Daisy, and is allied to the well-known Chamomile. 
Its bright, delicate green foliage, pure white and 
very double flowers, borne in great abundance and 
remaining perfect a long time, united with ease of 
cultivation, fit it for a desirable window plant Its 
flowers are much used for funeral decorations. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Pyrethrum thrives in a sandy loam enriched 
with well rotted manure. 

It requires only a scanty supply of water, and 
does best in a cool temperature.* 

It is easily increased by cuttings, which strike 
readily in water, or by division of the roots. 

Old plants should be well pruned in March or 
April, and the cuttings rooted for the following 
winter. Both old and new plants may be set out 
in the garden in May. The flower-buds of those 



PYRE THRUM 



: RANUNCULUS. 



149 



which are to be winter blooming should be pinched 
off through the fall. In September pot, shade and 
scantily water them for a few days before brinsrinp* 
into the house. They are half-hardy and will en- 
dure considerable frost. Old plants may be taken 
up with plenty of earth, shorn of foliage and 
wintered in the cellar, though this is not necessary 
in mild latitudes. 

Pyrethrum Golden Ge??i, a novelty, fine for bedding out, large 
double white flowers, continued throughout the summer. The 
color of the foliage is much brighter than that of the old Golden 
Feather. 

P. partkemfolium aureum* Golden Feather, prized for its }'eilow 
foliage. 

P. Parthenium flore-pleno, the double Feverfew. 



RANUNCULUS. 

This plant is named from rana, a frog ; many of 
the species are found in moist places frequented 
by that reptile. It is an extensive genus, mostly 
native of Europe and North America, embracing 
the common field Butter-cup or Crowfoot. A few 
varieties bear a profusion of elegant and diversely 
colored flow-ers, remarkable for symmetry and com- 
pactness, nearly as large as roses and valuable for 
the window garden. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Ranunculus thrives in fresh loam enriched 
with well rotted manure. 

It requires a moderate supply of water, slightly 



150 RANUNCULUS RESEDA 0D0RATA. 

increased when forcing for bloom, and it will flower 
best in a cool moist atmosphere. 

It is propagated from seed, or by dividing. 

The plant has curious tooth-like roots, which 
may be kept on hand in a dry state, for years and 
forced into bloom at any season. For winter 
flowering, select roots that have been out of the 
ground the summer previous, as they will bloom 
better for having had rest. A fine effect may be 
produced by planting three roots of diverse colors 
in each 4-inch pot. Press them firmly in the soil 
half an inch below the surface. Place them in a 
cool shaded location, a cellar or cold frame. By 
planting at intervals, commencing in July, a suc- 
cession of bloom may be produced throughout the 
winter. Early in October, begin bringing them 
forward to the light and warmth. They must be 
shaded from the sun which injures their bright 
colors. After blooming dry off and put away the 
bulbs for future use. 

RaniLiiculus Asiaticics and its varieties are most 
suitable for pot culture. 

Seedsmens catalogues give a large list of named 
sorts. 



RESEDA ODORATA. 

(MIGNONETTE.) 
The name Reseda is from resedo, to calm or ap- 
pease ; the Latins considered its application useful 



RESEDA ODORATA. 



in external bruises. Mignonette is a diminutive of 
the French mignou, darling. The plant is an old 
and universal favorite on account of the delicious 
perfume of its flowers which Linnaeus compares to 
that of Ambrosia. It is principally native of Eu- 
rope and Egypt. In France and Germany it is ex- 
tensively grown in boxes made to fit into windows 
and balconies. When in perfection it makes a fine 
house plant and it will last many years, bearing an 
abundance of agreeable flowers, useful in bouquet 
making. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

Mignonette thrives in a soil of three parts loam, 
one part leaf-mold and one part manure. 

It requires a moderate supply of water, and does 
well in the ordinary living-room temperature. 

It is easily increased by seed which for summer 
flowering may be sown in the open ground like 
that of other hardy annuals : but to obtain flower- 
ing plants through the winter sowings should be 
made in July and September, either in pots or the 
open border. Pinch off the top branches to induce 
a stocky growth, and prune in tree or shrub form 
as preferred, while the plant is young. If a tree is 
desired tie the stem to a stick or wire, when two 
inches high, to keep it straight. Remove every 
side branch till it reaches a foot in height, when 
they may be permitted to grow, but must be short- 
ened occasionally to form a bushy top. The Re- 



152 RESEDA ODORATA RICHARDIA iETHIOPICA. 



seda should be shifted as often as the pots are filled 
with roots. The noonday sun will sometimes turn 
the foliage yellow. 

Parsons Neiv White Mignonette, nearly white ; the flowers are 
larger and the plant much more vigorous than the old sort. 

Reseda Ameliorata, quite distinct from the old large flowered 
variety, its foliage and flowers are much larger; the plant is of 
pyramidal growth and attains a large size. 

R. odorata, Sweet Mignonette, is a fine large flowered variety. 



RICHARDIA ^ETHIOPICA. 

(CALLA LILY.) 

This well known and highly esteemed plant was 
named by Kunth, one of Humboldt's assistants, in 
honor of L. C. Richard, a celebrated French bota- 
nist. It is native of the Cape of Good Hope where 
it was first discovered in 1 73 1 . It is also often 
called the Easter Lily on account of its flowers be- 
ing so much used at the commemoration of the 
resurrection. The Calla is worthy of cultivation for 
the stateliness and symmetry of its foliage alone ; 
its dark shining leaves are borne with a royal grace. 
Its lily-like flowers, a cream-white spathe, enclos- 
ing a golden colored spadix is the gem of any 
collection. It endures much ill treatment and 
never fails to give a rich reward for proper care. 

SOIL, WATERING, PROPAGATION AND GENERAL CARE. 

The Calla grows best in in a soil composed large- 



RICHARDIA iETHIOPICA. 



153 



ly of decayed wood. Peat or leaf-mold enriched 
with a little well rotted manure is suited to it. 

It requires more water when in growth than 
almost any other plant — it is well to keep the pots 
standing in water — and none at all while at rest. 

It is not particular as to temperature, but thrives 
and blooms best in 70 to 75 degrees. 

The calla is increased by offsets from the roots 
which should be removed when the plant is re- 
potted. 

To produce winter bloom, lay the plant on its 
side in a shady location through the summer 
months. In September, when its leaves will all 
have withered, remove the earth from the bulbs by 
washing, and repot them. Set in a sunny loca- 
tion, water copiously twice a day and give an ap- 
plication of liquid fertilizer once a week. It will 
bloom in November, and one blossom succeed 
another until June when the plant must have rest. 
In its native clime it blooms in the wet and rests 
in the dry season. 

FORCING, INSECTS AND VARIETIES. 

A plant flowers better if grown in a pot by itself 
though if the bulbs are not large three may be grown 
in one vessel, separated a number of inches. Two 
flower buds often rise successively from the same 
leaf-stalk, the second will appear sooner if the first is 
not allowed to wither before cutting. The plant 
should not be removed to a cooler room while 



154 RICHARDIA iETHIOPICA ROSE. 



blooming ; such a change may cause the bud to de- 
cay or blast the open flower. A few drops of aqua 
ammonia added to the water which is given the 
plant, once a week, will stimulate growth and 
bloom. To accelerate flowering it is well to give it 
quite warm water and by increasing the heat at 
each application, it will even bear boiling water. 
This is frequently done to force bloom and does 
not injure the plant. 

The Calla is liable to be infested with spiders. A 
vigilant watch should be kept for them, and the 
plant frequently washed with soapsuds which, if 
persevered in, will exterminate them. 

Richardia BLthiopica, the old large variety attaining three feet in 
height ; flowers sometimes eight inches in length. 

Richardia AL'hiopica Nana, a dwarf variety smaller in all its parts 
than the common Calla. In this respect it is more desirable, being 
more convenient to handle than the strong growing species; the 
flower also being much smaller are available for vases, baskets of 
cut flowers, or other decorations. 



ROSE. 

The name for the Queen of Flowers is similar 
in all European languages but the English word 
Rose is attributed to the Celtic rhod y red ; in refer- 
ence to its prevailing color. It is native of all 
regions of the globe from the frozen Arctics to 
Sahara ; where soil and moisture disappear the 
Moss Rose flourishes. Asia has the greatest num- 
ber of species and China has furnished the parent 



ROSE. 



155 



varieties of the house Rose. The effect of cultiva- 
tion to increase and beautify plants is well illustra- 
ted in the Rose. Only four species were known 
in the early ages ; there are now more than seven 
thousand. The wild brier is parent alike of the 
constant-blooming Tea Rose and the hundred leaved 
varieties. 

In the classic ages it was a domestic flower that 
inspired the devotion of all. The Romans w r ere 
wild in their enthusiasm over it. They used it 
alike to decorate their feasts and burials, to crown 
their heroes of war, to heal the sick, to perfume the 
bath, to clear the complexion and to brighten the 
eye ; they slept on couches made of roses, drank 
rose wine, and esteemed the oil of roses more pre- 
cious than gold. In mythology the Rose was 
dedicated to the god of silence and a host in an- 
cient times often suspended a rose over the guest 
table as an emblem of secrecy. Many curious su- 
perstitions and legends of this flower are cherished 
by the French, Germans and Italians. In this 
country its emblematic significance seems to be 
lost, though it is used in vast quantities for pur- 
poses of decoration and display and many florists' 
with large investments of capital and skill make its 
cultivation a speciality. 

SOIL, WATERING, TEMPERATURE AND PROPAGATION. 

The Rose flourishes in widely different soils. 
Equal parts of loam, leaf-mold and well rotted ma- 



156 



ROSE. 



nure are well suited to it. Some florists say a 
foundation of stiff clayey loam increases the sub- 
stance and depth of coloring of the flowers. 

Water regularly and moderately when in growth 
and very scantily when at rest. 

In a dormant state, or while forming working 
roots, they should have a low temperature never 
exceeding 40 at night ; when forcing for bloom 50 
to 6o° at night and 70 to 75 during the day. 

The propagation of the rose is effected by every 
method capable of being applied to ligneous plants, 
but principally by cuttings or layering. Cuttings 
should contain three or four eyes. The wood should 
be sufficiently ripened to show the developeme of 
buds at the axil of the leaf. They are often suc- 
cessfully rooted in pots in which other plants are 
growing ; or they maybe set as deep as the second 
eye in saucers or boxes of sand saturated with 
water. They will succeed best, if protected by glass. 
They may be propagated on a more extensive scale, 
by planting them in October or November, in a cold 
frame in soil composed of equal parts loam, leaf- 
mold and sand, and will be rooted in March and 
ready to pot, if merely kept from freezing thro igh 
the winter. Set the cuttings about two inches 
apart. One thorough watering to settle the soil 
around them will probably be all they will need 
until spring. 

Layering, the surest method of increasing the 
Rose for the amateur, may be done in the open 



ROSE. 



157 



ground. Bend down a shoot of a few weeks' 
growth, make an incision on the upper side nearly 
severing it, at a point where there are green leaves 
both above and below, and bury the cut part an 
inch in the soil, pegging it down. When the layer 
has rooted sever it from the parent plant. If a pot 
is sunk to the level of the rim, to receive the layer 
the important advantage will be gained of not be- 
ing obliged to transplant, as the rose is slow to re- 
cover any disturbance of its roots. These make 
flowering plants the following spring, 

GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Roses for winter blooming should be summered 
in pots to avoid the destruction of the working 
roots, and the consequent check to their growth 
occasioned by repotting in the fall. If plunged in 
earth or sand, frequently shifted to larger pots and 
not allowed to get too dry in the hot days of sum- 
mer they will make a vigorous growth. In long 
heavy rains the pots should be lifted a few hours 
to dry. It should be remembered that if the fine 
white tender extremeties, the growing points of the 
roots, are disturbed by transplanting, or killed by 
the hot sun striking the surface of the pots, or by 
a sodden soil, the health of the plant is' destroyed 
and new working roots must be formed before 
growth can proceed, or the plant be forced into 
bloom. Roses do better in smaller pots in propor- 
tion^ to their size than almost any other plant. 



158 ROSE. 

Roses that have bloomed in the garden through 
the summer need rest. Place them in a cellar 
after potting and withhold water until their leaves 
die. Two months before they are wanted for 
blooming, prune and water sparingly. Let them 
remain in the low temperature of the cellar until 
working roots have formed and a new growth com- 
menced. They may now be brought forward to 
light and warmth and the temperature gradually 
increased to 70 or 75 °. 

PRUNING, LIQUID FERTILIZERS AND INSECTS. 

In regard to pruning : — the finest flowers grow 
upon the new shoots, the old stems should be 
pruned closest. It is a good rule to cut the weak, 
unhealthy branches and a few of the new ones after 
blooming. Growers have diverse opinions in regard 
to pruning roses. A celebrated English florist 
says : — " A rose in a vigorous condition, healthy 
and full of sap requires less pruning than when it 
is of a moderate or weak growth. The same de- 
gree of pruning applied to each condition would 
produce opposite results. Close pruning would be 
the means of improving a weak plant, while it 
would induce a strong one to form wood shoots 
rather than buds." 

A frequent application of liquid' manure is bene- 
ficial to the Rose but care must be used not to 
make it so strong as to cause the leaves to fall. A 
decoction of soot will also facilitate growth. Dis- 



ROSE. 



159 



solve a tablespoonful of soot in two quarts of warm 
water, and apply it to the roots once a week. 

If infested with rose-slug or spider, wash them 
frequently with whale-oil soap-suds, or give them a 
quick plunge several times a day in water heated 
to about 120 degrees. To prevent the appearance 
of aphis fumigate frequently, or syringe both upper 
and under sides of the leaves with tobacco water. 
It is easier to prevent their coming than to destroy 
them when established. The remedy for the com- 
mon angle-worms which sometimes injure the 
roots, is lime-water. 

THE VARIETIES SUITED FOR HOUSE CULTURE. 

The Moss, Damask, Climbing, Hybrid Perpetual 
and several other classes are strong, coarse-grow- 
ing and suited to out-of-door culture. The China, 
Bourbon and Tea which belong to the Monthly or 
Ever-blooming class are the ones most fit tor house 
culture. They are distinguished by their more 
delicate and shining leaves and stems. These 
varieties are descended from the old Rosa Indica, 
the common China or Bengal Rose ; R. odoratatYit 
Chinese or Sweet-scented Tea Rose and R. sent- 
perflorens, the Chinese crimson Rose. By skilful 
hybridization a vast number of named sorts have 
been produced ; only a few desirable ones can be 
given. 

VARIETIES OF THE CHINA OR BENGAL ROSE. 

This class known as the Monthly or Daily Rose, 



i6o 



ROSE. 



is usually stout growing and stocky, leaves gen- 
erally smooth, glossy, fine cut and abundant. They 
were introduced into cultivation in 1789, are half- 
hardy and will endure much ill treatment. 

Agrippi?ta, or Cramoisi Superieur, rich velvety-crimson, very 
double. 

Eels Blush, a profuse bloomer ; flowers large and double, re- 
sembling a tea rose. 

Eugene Beauharnais, bright amaranth, fine form and fragrant. 

Indica or Common Daily Rose, dark blush or rose color; free 
grower and profuse bloomer. 

Jacksonia, bright red, very double. 

La Sicperbe, purple-crimson, flowers always opening well. 
Madame Morel, cream color, pink centre. 
SemperJlore?ts, or Sanguinea, rich crimson, very double. 

VARIETIES OF THE TEA ROSE. 

This class from R. odoratissima, brought from 
China, in 18 10, have a more delicate and graceful 
habit than the China Rose, and want more light, 
care, and a richer soil. 

Adam, bright pink, large and cupped. 
Aurora, yellow, shaded rose. 
Bella, pure white, tea scented. 
Bon Sile?ie, rich pink, large. 

Caroline, bright rosy pink or flesh-colored, large and fine. 
Clara Sylvain, pure white ; double ; very fragrant. 
Isabella Sprunt, bright canary-color, rich tea odor. 
Madame Falcot, orange yellow, very free bloomer. 
Madame Desprez, white, very fragrant. 
Safrano, orange ; an abundant bloomer ; rich tea odor. 
Souvenir (Pun Ami, light lilac. 

VARIETIES OF THE BOURBON ROSE. 

This new and distinct race of vigorous and beau- 
tiful roses are a union of the China with the 



ROSE SALVIA. 



161 



Damask Perpetual. They are hardy south of New 
York and will endure New England winters with a 
slight protection. They are not so suitable for the 
winter window garden as others, but will bloom all 
summer and are fine for bedding out, 

Bosanquet, rich blush, free grower and bloomer. 
Bouquet de Flore, deep carmine, large and fragrant. 
Henry Clay, pale blush. 

Hermosa, light rose, free bloomer, largely cultivated. 
Mrs. Bosanquet, pale flesh-color ; very fine. 
Froserpine, light carmine, very fragrant. 
Queen of Bourbons, rich blush, of a quite dwarf habit. 
Sombriel, blush white, strong grower. 

Souvenir de la Malmaison, flesh-color, very double, splendid. 



SALVIA. 

This plant is named from salvo, to save ; in al- 
lusion to the healing qualities of Sage. It is an 
extensive genus with brilliant colored flowers, 
mainly scarlet, blue and white, grown in gardens 
and suitable also for the window. The flowering 
varieties most cultivated in this country are natives 
of Mexico and Southern Europe. The well known 
culinary Sage is Salvia Officinalis. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The Salvia grows well in a soil three parts sandy 
loam and one of leaf-mold. 

It needs to be watered freely except when growth 
is retarded from any cause. 



162 



SALVIA. 



A temperature of 45 by night and 6o° by day 
suits it best, though it does well in living rooms. 

Most varieties are raised from seed which may 
be sown in the house in March and planted out in 
May, or grown for the window at any season. 5. 
Patens seeds very sparingly and is generally in- 
creased by cuttings, a method by which any of the 
Salvias may be propagated. Remove most of foliage 
from the slips and start them in damp sand. 

Those wanted for the house can be potted, 
plunged in the earth and the buds pinched back 
that the plant may store up strength for winter. 
Before frost bring them in and give them liquid 
fertilizer weekly till they bloom. In May cut them 
back for the out door garden. The size of old 
plants unfit them for the window and new ones 
should be started as required. 

VARIETIES. 

Salvia fulgens variegata, a winter blooming variety, flowers bright 
scarlet, foliage variegated with white. 

S. Heeri, winter flowering, blooms well in a cooi atmosphere ; 
flowers in long terminal spikes, glossy scarlet with a carmine tint, 
one and one-half to two inches in length. 

S. Officinalis Var., a beautiful tri-colored variety of the common 
Sage ; leaves white, green, and pink blotched. 

S. Patens^ flowers a rich shade of blue ; its fleshy roots may be 
preserved like a Dahlia through the winter. 

S. Rosea, a distinct winter-flowering variety with rich rose-colored 
flowers, borne in spikes six inches in length. 

S. Splendens, Scarlet Sage, flowers brilliant scarlet, attains a 
height and breadth of six feet. 

.9. Splendens Alba, pure white, rather dwarfer than the scarlet. 

.V. Splendens Gordonu, dwarf variety of S. Splendens. 



SAXIFRAGA. 



163 



SAXIFRAGA. 

Saxifraga named from saxwn, a rock, and frangere 
to break, in allusion to the supposed lithonthriptic 
qualities of some of the species, is a native of both 
temperate and frigid zones. It is usually found 
growing over rocks. The species used for house- 
culture is commonly called from its habit Straw- 
berry Geranium. Its trailing tendrils reach a length 
of several feet and bear curious tufts of hirsute 
dark green leaves with silvery veins. Its clusters 
of delicate white flowers are unimportant ; the 
plant is cultivated for its beautiful foliage. 

SOIL, WATERING AND GENERAL TREATMENT. 

Saxifraga thrives in a soil of equal parts sandy- 
loam and leaf-mold. 

It requires a moderate supply of water, slightly 
increased when the plant is making rapid growth 
and diminished when in a dormant state. 

It grows best in shade, and wants a rather cool 
atmosphere. 

The plant is readily increased by seeds or div- 
isions of the roots. Small plants should be re- 
moved as they form around the old one. An appli- 
cation of liquid fertilizer once in two weeks stim- 
ulates a rapid growth. The plant is admirably 
adapted to growing in hanging baskets in north 
windows, and needs very little care. 

Saxifraga Sarmetitosa, is the variety commonly grown for hang- 
ing baskets. 



164 



SEDUM. 



SEDUM. 

(STOXECROP.) 

The name Sedum is from sedere, to sit ; the 
plants are found growing upon stones, rocks, walls, 
and roofs of houses, and look as if sitting there. 
They are interesting succulent plants, native of 
Europe and Northern Asia. The hardy species are 
adapted to growing over rock or rustic work, orna- 
mental mounds or old stone walls. The tender 
kinds are admirable for hanging baskets or vases 

SOIL, TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

Sedums grow best in a mixture of sandy loam 
and fine brick-rubbish well enriched with rotted 
manure. 

They require an abundant supply of water and a 
rather high temperature. 

They are easily increased by cuttings or div- 
isions. 

Give the plants fresh air frequently and a full 
exposure to the light Care should be used to let 
no water touch the leaves. Repot them in fresh 
soil every year. 

Sedum Sieboldi, a fine trailing plant of easy growth, for hanging 
baskets. It has a peculiar habit ; from a central crown appear a 
number of slender branches that attain a length of eighteen inches 
with leaves m groups of three at regular intervals, and large clus- 
ters of flowers at their ends. The flower-buds are a long time in 
developing. After blooming the stems die down and a new growth 
from the root- immediately succeeds. The plant with ?ood culture 
will improve every year. It needs a somewhat shaded and shel- 
tered location. 



SENECIO SCAXDEX3. 



165 



SENECIO SCANDENS. 

(GERMAN IVY.) 

The name Senecio is from senex an old man ; 
the receptacle, or summit of the flower stalk, is 
naked and resembles a bald head. Senecio Scan- 
dens is called an Ivy, probably from its hederaceous 
habit, the leaves are similar in form, but they are 
of a much lighter green, of an entirely different 
texture and lack the conspicuous veins of the He- 
dera. Its rapid growth of vivid green foliage 
which may be easily twined about any object ren- 
ders it one of the most available plants for house 
decoration. A strong plant will growin one winter 
around three sides of a room and festoon windows, 
doors and pictures, imparting to it a cheer: ness 
and grace without cost or trouble. Its flowers 
borne in clusters of a bright yellow color resem- 
bling those of the Golden Rod, but are not parti- 
cularly striking. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AXD VARIETIES. 

The plant thrives in loam enriched with leaf- 
mold. 

It grows best in a temperature from 6o° to 70 , 
but endures the common house atmosphere. 

It should have a plentiful supply of water when 
growing rapidly and less when growth is checked 
from any cause. 

Senecio Scandens is easily propagated, rooting 
frerely in soil, sand or water. 



166 SENECIO SOLAN UM PSEUDO-CAPSICUM. 

It may be grown in vases of water or in vials 
suspended behind pictures or mirrors, but much 
more rapidly and luxuriantly in soil. Its foliage is 
very tender and it should be handled without 
touching its leaves. It thrives best in partial shade 
and should not have the noon-day sun. Insects 
never trouble it. 

Senecio Macroglossis, & variety coming into use, much more re- 
sembles the English Ivy than Senecio Scandens, in the leaves hav- 
ing a darker green, and similar texture, thickness, conspicuous 
veins and mid-rib. 



SOLANUM PSEUDO-CAPSICUM. 

(JERUSALEM CHERRY.) 

The derivation of the word Solanum is uncer- 
tain. The genus includes a great number of widely 
different species, some dangerously poisonous, as 
the deadly Nightshade, others exceedingly valuable 
as the common potato, Solanum tuberosaum, dis- 
covered in Peru, in 1597, which although it now 
constitutes a large portion of the food of civilized 
man, was very little known until the 17th century, 
and has been extensively cultivated only within the 
last hundred years. The Jerusalem Cherry was 
introduced from Madeira nearly three centuries ago 
and was seen in every collection of plants. It was 
highly valued for its beautiful glossy-green foliage, 
and brilliant cherry-like fruit, but has lost its for- 
mer popularity. In England, where much atten- 



SOLANUM PSEUDO-CAPSICUM. 



167 



tion is paid to table decoration, plants with bright 
berries are in great demand, and much more care 
is given to its cultivation than with us. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The plant thrives best in sandy loam, enriched 
with well rotted manure. 

It requires a moderate supply of water, with 
plenty of sun and air, and is not particular as to 
temperature. 

They are increased by seed, or by cuttings root- 
ed in sand under glass. Seed should be sown in 
pots in April, and transplanted to the open ground 
in a rich soil and sunny location, as soon as the 
weather is warm enough. If they thrive they will 
be in fruit the next winter. Pot them before frost, 
carefully water and shade a few days, and place 
them in a sunny window. They require only ordi- 
nary care. 

Solatium Ciliatum, a species from Porto Rico, superior to all 
others as a table ornament. It has beautiful dark green, glossy 
foliage, prickly stems, and bears a profusion of large, brilliant, 
scarlet berries having a delicate bloom ; height eighteen inches. 

S. Hybridum Herdesnoii, a variety with freely branched growth 
12 to iS inches in height, with small green leaves and creamy white 
blossoms, succeeded by a profusion of erect cone-shaped fruit of a 
brilliant orange color. 

S. Jasmhicides, a pretty climber, with dark green foliage and 
white flowers in large clusters ; leaves variegated with white, the 
edges having a purple tint ; a rampant grower ; fine around a 
window or to cover a trellis. Will bloom all winter. 

Sr Pseudo-Capsicum Var. t leaves bordered with creamy white. 



STEVIA. 



STEVIA. 

The name Stevia was given this genus of plants 

in honor of Peter James Esteve, M.D., professor of 
Botany at Valencia. They are principally natives 
of Mexico, from whence they were first brought in 
1798, and are extensively cultivated by florists for 
their white feathery-like sprays of flowers, admir- 
ably adapted for mingling with bright colors. The 
Stevia has foliage similar to the Eupatorium, but a 
more delicate an 1 feathery flower. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

A rich garden soil or sandy loam containing some 
leaf-mold, suits the Stevia. 

Give it plenty of water and a low temperature. 

The plant is easily increased from seeds, divis- 
ions or cuttings, 

Seeds started in spring, or cuttings rooted in 
early summer, may be potted, plunged in the earth 
and the buds pinched off until November, and make 
fine early winter-blooming plants. They should 
have as low a temperature as possible without freez- 
ing them in November. In the spring cut the plant 
well back and repot in fresh soil ; if intended for 
another winter, the pots may be plunged and buds 
pinched back as before. 

Stevia com fa eta, snowy white, blooming earlier and continuing 
longer in bloom than any other ; best from November to January. 
S. serrate, white, flowering during January and February. 
.9. serrata, var., leaves variegated with creamy white. 



THUNBERGIA. 



169 



THUNBERGIA. 

This genus of plants, named in honor of Charles 
P. Thunberg, a celebrated traveller and botanist, is 
mostly native of Cape of Good Hope and East In- 
dies. They are free-blooming climbers, adapted to 
a warm location in the garden, but very much bet- 
ter suited to the house and conservatory. The 
flowers are white, buff, or orange, generally with a 
dark eye. The plant starts slowly at first, but when 
it begins to run, makes a rapid growth and may be 
used for hanging baskets, if a climbing rather than 
a trailing vine is desired. 

SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Thunbergia succeeds well in a mixture of 
sandy loam and leaf-mold. 

It requires a moderate supply of wa :r, and 
thrives in the ordinary temperature of the house. 

They are readily increased by seeds, or by cut- 
tings started in sand. Seeds may be sown under 
glass early in spring for summer flowering, or in 
August, in pots for the house. They will begin to 
bloom w T hen quite small, but the early flower-buds 
should be removed until the plant is of the required 
size, as growth stops, if they are allowed to bloom 
too early. They may be grown in pots and trained 
to a trellis, or in baskets, and be allowed to either 
climb or trail. 

Tfycnbergia alata, buff, with white eye. 
T\ alba, white, with dark eye. 
T. aurantiaca, bright orange, dark eye. 
T. Bakerii) pure white. 



170 



TRADESCANDIA. 



TRADESC ANTIA. 

This plant is named in honor of John Tradescant. 
gardener to Charles I. of England, where it was in- 
troduced from North America in 1629. It has re- 
ceived many common names in different localities, 
as Wandering Jew, Joseph's Coat, Jacob's Ladder, 
Air-Plant, etc. It is extensively cultivated and 
valuable for the endurance, rapidity of growth, and 
brightness of the satiny foliage displayed in some 
of its varieties. It will live and thrive under treat- 
ment from which most other plants would die. 

SOIL, TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

Tradescantia thrives best in a mixture of loam 
and leaf-mold. 

It should have plenty of water and is not partic- 
ular as to temperature, though it does best in a 
warm location in partial shade. 

It is easily increased by cuttings which root and 
will grow for months in water. Two or three vari- 
eties grown in vases make a pleasing ornament. 
Frequent showerings increase the brightness of its 
foliage. 

Tradescantia aquatica, very small green leaves for aquariums, 
hanging baskets, etc. 

T. Crassula, strong growing, with white flowers. 

T. Discolor, a strong growing sort, the leaves home upright, the 
underside violet-purple, the upper light green, suitable for centre of 
baskets or vases. 

T. Kerens Vittata, bright green, striped white. 

T. Vulgaris^ drooping, with bright glossy green leaves. 

T. Zebrina, leaves striped with silvery white on a dark ground. 



TROPiEOLUM. 



171 



TROPiEOLUM. 

The leaves of the Tropaeolum resemble a buckler, 
and the flowers an empty helmet, hence the name, 
from tropaion, a trophy. They are natives of South 
America, are extensively cultivated in gardens and 
have long been a popular favorite. The seeds of 
T. majus are pickled and used as capers, to which 
they are preferred by some. The roots of T. tuber- 
osum are eaten in Peru. The plant is sometimes 
called Nasturtium or Indian Cress, and has the 
same antiscorbutic properties as Water Cress, which 
is one of the Nasturtiums. Some species of this 
beautiful genus may be found alike in the costliest 
conservatory and the poor man's garden. All the 
varieties are of rapid growth and free bloomers, 
none are destitute of some beauty, while the greater 
number are remarkable for their bright, rich vel- 
vety colors of yellow, orange and red. In 1842 
T. axzreum, a beautiful blue, was discovered in 
Chili. It had been supposed that there could not 
be a blue flowering plant in the same class with 
those of red, yellow or cognate colors. The dis- 
covery of a blue Trapaeolum was, therefore, an ex- 
traordinary event. 

Tropaeolums may be divided into three classes. 
First, those with tuberous roots as Tropceolum 
azureum. Second, those with large round leaves, 
and large, showy, often coarse flowers, as the 
varieties of T; opceolum majus. Third, those with 



172 



TROP^OLUM VERBENA. 



small, delicate, regularly formed flowers, and a 

climbing, rather than trailing habit, such as T. 
Lobbianitm, named from M. Lobb, who first collect- 
ed it in Columbia in 1843. The latter is the vari- 
ety suitable for house culture, and whose treatment 
only is given, It may be grown in pots or baskets, 
but requires much soil and room for its roots. 

TREATMENT AND VARIETIES OF TROP^OLUM 
LOBBIANUM. 

They thrive best in a mixture of sandy loam and 
leaf-mold. In too rich, soil grow an excess of 
foliage. 

Give them plenty of water with good drainage, 
and a temperature of about 50 to 70 degrees. 

They produce seed sparingly, but are easily in- 
creased by cuttings in sand, or soil under glass. 

Keep them a little pot-bound to prevent them 
from producing leaves so abundantly as to hide 
their flowers, and apply liquid manure occasionally. 
They are troubled but little w T ith insects. 

Caroline Smith, spotted. 

Litti Smith, orange-scarlet. 

Giant of Battles, brilliant carmine. 

Napoleon III., yellow, striped with vermilion 

Queen Victoria, vermilion, scarlet striped. 



VERBENA. 

The English name vervain and the Latin verbena 
are supposed to be derived from the Celtic ferfaen. 



VERBENA. 



173 



The plant is principally native of South America. 
The three oldest species were introduced from Peru, 
Buenos Ayres and Brazil, from 1818 to 1834; from 
these have sprung many hundreds of varieties, and 
the Verbena has become the most popular bedding- 
out plant of the day. Its flowers are in every 
color except yellow. The qualities of a perfect 
Verbena are, roundness of form without indenture; 
petals thick, flat, bright and smooth ; the trusses of 
bloom compact, and standing out from the foliage ; 
the flowers meeting but not crowding each other, 
or changing in the sun. The plant should be com- 
pact, with short, strong joints, either distinctly of a 
shrubby habit, a close ground-creeper, or a climber. 

SOIL, WATERING AND PROPAGATION. 

A soil of sandy loam and leaf-mold in equal parts, 
will suit the Verbena. ✓ 

The plant grows on dry hills in South America ; 
it wants only a moderate supply of water, good 
drainage and an even temperature of about 50 de- 
grees. Too much heat and moisture cause mildew 
and decay of the roots. 

Verbenas are easily increased by seeds, cuttings 
or layers. Cuttings for w T inter-blooming plants 
should be made of young, healthy shoot's, such as 
will break on being bent, taken late in July or early 
in August, rooted in damp sand, and potted in small 
pots as soon as the roots are half an inch long, 
which they will attain in about two weeks. If the 



174 



VERBENA. 



roots grow long and become hardened before re- 
moving from the sand the plants will be slim and 
weak. Cuttings strike so readily that laying is not 
advisable. Self-rooted layers form roots so low 
down that they will not produce as healthy plants 
as cuttings of younger growth. 

Verbenas seed well if the plants have not been 
too long propagated by cuttings. Seeds should be 
soaked in warm water over night before planting, 
and may be sown early in spring in shallow boxes, 
filled*with leaf-mold and sand, and covered with a 
thin layer of the mold. Set them out when an inch 
and a half high in boxes of similar soil, two inches 
apart, or, a better method is to use 2-inch pots and 
plunge them in sand. Set those designed for bud- 
ding out in the open ground, as soon as the weather 
is warm enough. They will bloom in three months. 
It is well to pinch off the first flower buds and let 
the plants become strong before blooming. From 
these seedlings make cuttings of the most desirable 
"varieties for winter bloom. 

It is important that the house Verbenas be fumi- 
gated once a week as a preventative for the aphis. 
Tobacco smoke, it is thought, has also a tendency 
to exempt them from black rust, the work of a 
minute insect, sometimes called the " Verbena 
mite" which is most destructive in a high tempera- 
ture, hence the importance of keeping them in a 
cool room. When young plants are brought into 
the house, they should remain a few weeks without 



VERBENA 



. VIOLA ODORATA. 



175 



fire heat, and never have a temperature above 50 
degrees until they commence to bud. Give them 
water during this season only by sprinkling when 
they become too dry. When buds appear they may 
be brought forward to the sitting-room window, and 
placed near the glass, there they may have plenty of 
sun. Prune them back frequently to check off 
straggling growth. Plants that have bloomed in 
the house will not be as vigorous for bedding out 
as new plants raised from seed or cuttings. 

The constant improvement in Verbenas and vast 
number of named sorts render it impossible to give 
a list of varieties of any value. One grower pro- 
duces thirty new names a year, and lists 100 named 
sorts, none of which are found in other florists' 
catalogues. 



VIOLA ODORATA. 

(SWEET VIOLET.) 

The Sweet or English Violet is characterized by 
its long, trailing, leafy runners. Its leaves are 
heart-shaped, and flowers so deliriously fragrant that 
a single one will perfume a bouquet, or a room, with 
its delightful aroma. They are in great demand in 
large cities during the winter months ;• a hundred 
thousand square feet of glass are used in growing 
Violets for the New York market, and some florists 
make it an exclusive business. They may be grown 
in-cool rooms in the house. 



I76 VIOLA ODORATA VIOLA TRICOLOR. 



SOIL, GENERAL TREATMENT AND VARIETIES. 

The Violet requires a rich soil to bloom luxuri- 
antly ; equal parts loam, leaf-mold and manure will 
answer. 

The supply of water should not be excessive, and 
they should have good drainage 

A temperature from 45 to 65 suits them best. 
If grown in a room heated to 70 the flowers will 
be small and the stalks slender. 

The Violet produces little or no seed. They are 
propagated by divisions of the roots, or by cuttings 
taken in June and raised in wet sand under glass. 

When forcing for bloom the runners and all 
fading leaves should be cut off as soon as they ap- 
pear. The plants require an unusual depth of soil, 
and should be grown in deep pots or boxes. A 
tea made of rotten wood is a good fertilizer for 
them. 

Dotible Blue Neapolitan, the variety most cultivated, 
Double White Neapolitan, double white flowers. 
King of Violets, large double blue, one inch in diameter. 
Queen of Violets, blush-white, flowers very double. 
Russian Violet, light blue, single, but very large, fine and exceed- 
ingly fragrant ; blooms from September to May. 
Shonbrun, single blue, flowers very prolific. 



VIOLA TRICOLOR. 

(PANSY.) 

The Pansy is said to have been introduced into 
cultivation in 181 2 by Lady Monck. It was known 



VIOLA TRICOLOR. 



177 



in its old-fashioned days by many names, as Three- 
Faces-under-one-Hood, Herb Trinity, Love in Idle- 
ness, Johnny-jump-up, Kit-run-about, and Heart's 
Ease, and universally loved, not only for its frag- 
rance and beauty, but its emblematic significance 
of faithfulness. In the hands of the florist, the 
Pansy has undergone such changes in form and 
color, and is so much increased in size, that we 
scarcely recognize in it the friend of our childhood. 
The essential points of a perfect Pansy are now 
considered to be, that its form should be a complete 
circle without notch or indentation ; petals large 
and broad ; the eye clear and well defined ; the 
colors rich and vivid, and of a velvety appearance ; 
the size not less than an inch and a half. The 
principal color of the lower petals should be alike, 
and the markings or pencilings on the ground color, 
bright and distinct and retain their character with- 
out running or flushing. 

The Pansy, though not so fragrant as the Sweet 
Violet, takes more kindly to living-room tempera- 
ture, and endures greater change of atmosphere. 
It has the same fondness for shade, and may be 
grown in north-west windows, where it will flower 
abundantly during the dark days of winter. 

SOIL, PROPAGATION AND TREATMENT. 

Pansies thrive in equal parts loam, leaf-mold and 

well rotted manure. 

They want plenty of water ; a cool temperature, 
8* 12 



i 7 8 



VIOLA TRICOLOR. 



They are easily propagated by seed, cuttings, or 
layers. Seed should be saved only from the finest 
varieties and sown in April in boxes of leaf-mold 
covered with glass. When little more than an inch 
high, transplant those designed for the window in 
deep boxes or pots. Those for winter-flowering 
should only be allowed to bloom once that the 
finest may be discovered and preserved. Pinch off 
the buds and cut the tops back until fall and they 
will make strong, healthy plants for winter. 

As seed is not certain to come true, choice vari- 
eties may be increased by cuttings. Cut off three 
inches of the ends of the shoots directly below a 
joint, strip up the lower leaves and root them in 
wet sand under glass. Shade from the hot sun. 

Layering from plants grown in the open ground 
is easily done. Sink a few pots filled with compost 
conveniently near the old plant. Make an incision 
at a joint, half severing a new shoot. Fasten this 
point down in a pot and cover with soil. When 
rooted they may be severed from the parent plant. 

The largest blossoms are produced by young 
plants. To keep them thrifty and blooming freely, 
do not allow them to seed, but pick the flowers 
before they fade. If exhausted by over-blooming, 
cut off the plant a few inches above the surface of 
the ground, this will check growth and allow time 
for recuperation by the formation of new roots. 
Liquid manure is beneficial ; they are not troubled 
with insects and need little care. 



ADDITIONAL LIST OF PLANTS. 



The following descriptive list embraces either 
rare greenhouse plants, or annuals which are adapt- 
able to house culture, but whose treatment is not 
considered essential to the present work : 

Achimenes, beautiful bulbous plants for green- 
house or conservatory in summer, of dwarf, com- 
pact branching habit, with a profusion of clear 
crystal-like flowers in bright colors, which are in- 
jured by the least exposure to the sun. They bloom 
about three months. The bulbs should be dried off 
and kept warm through the winter. 

Allamanda, a valuable green-house plant, having 
large, deep, yellow flowers four inches in diameter. 
It can be trained to climb or be grown as a shrub. 
It blooms nearly the entire season. 

Aloe, an extensive genus, formerly very common. 
The different: species present a great diversity in 
size and habit, as well as in the shape of their leaves 
and character of the flowers. Some have stems 
several feet in height, while others are stemless, and 
rise but a few inches above the surface of the earth. 
In all the species the leaves are thick and fleshy, 
in this respect resembling the Century-plant, which 



i8o 



ADDITIONAL LIST OF PLANTS. 



is frequently called the American Aloe. They are 
natives of South Africa and of the East and West 
Indies. Among those cultivated for peculiar foliage 
the Aloe variegata or Partridge-Breasted Aloe, is 
especially beautiful. Its specific name is derived 
from the peculiar markings of the variegation, re- 
sembling those on the breast of a partridge, the 
white lines being transverse on the leaves, and the 
green color running into them in a beautifully pencil- 
led manner. Aloe verrucosa^ or Warty Aloe, is cul- 
tivated for peculiar foliage as well as beautiful 
flowers. The leaves of this species are curiously 
superposed in two rows, of a dark green color, thick- 
ly covered with smalLexcresences or warts. The 
flowers are red, and borne in simple racemes. 

Ampelopsis Quinquefolia, the well-known Vir- 
ginia Creeper. Its dense foliage and drooping, 
graceful festoons, so charming and luxuriant in its 
natural state, becomes dwarfed by change to the 
hanging basket, into a little gem that cannot fail to 
elicit admiration. 

Anomatheca, flowers during the summer, and are 
very showy, colors pink and scarlet. 

Armeniaca vulgaris, or Thrift, also commonly 
called Sea Lavender or Sea Pink, narrow grass-like 
leaves and clusters of little pink flowers, extensive- 
ly cultivated as a border plant, makes a valuable 
house-plant in winter by reason of its hardiness and 
profusion of bloom. 

Babiana, a very handsome genus of Cape Bulbs 



ADDITIONAL LIST OF PLANTS. 



181 



with hairy, plaited leaves and brilliant flowers ; 
colors, dark blue, dazzling crimson, white, purple, 
lilac and pink. The plant is subject to attacks of 
the red spider, which should be carefully guarded 
against, for it is almost impossible to dislodge them 
from the hairy leaves. 

Cedronella cordata, found from Pennsylvania 
southward along the Alleghany Mountains. Valu- 
able for hanging baskets, bearing recemes of delicate 
flowers of a beautiful purplish blue. As a trailer 
it has a very pleasing effect, its leaves diminishing 
in size, and the space between them elongating to- 
wards the ends or the sprays. 

Clerodendron Balfoitri, a climber of great beauty, 
or susceptible of being trained as a shrub ; flowers 
of a bright scarlet, with a calyx of pure white, borne 
in trusses or panicles six inches across; blooms 
most profusely in the winter months. 

Cisstis Discolor, a beautiful climber, its leaves 
shaded with dark green, purple and white, having a 
rich velvety appearance like that of Begonia Rex. 
The plant requires a high temperature to develop 
the coloring of the leaves, but must not have the 
direct rays of the sun. 

Dentzia, a small shrub, bearing a wonderful pro- 
fusion of double white flowers, the back of the petals 
tinged with purple or rose in some of the varieties. 

Gleclwma Jiederacea, Gill-over-the-ground, or 
Ground Ivy, is a hardy creeping or trailing ever- 
green, growing about hedges or walls ; suitable for 



ADDITIONAL LIST OF PLANTS. 



rock-work, and may be used with good effect for 
out-door hanging baskets or vases, as it grows rap- 
idly and trails four or five feet. 

Gloxinia, are handsome summer-blooming s;reen- 
house plants, with rich and varied coloring of the 
flowers. The bulbs should be started in spring and 
after blooming all summer, require a season of 
rest. This can be done by gradually withholding 
water from them. After they are dried off, they 
may be kept in a warm, dry cellar. 

Gypsophildy a delicate-foliaged, free-flowering 
plant, growing four inches high, easily raised from 
seed, and suitable for baskets or boxes. G. Muralis, 
pink flowers, and G. Paniculata, white. 

Lapagevia Rosea, one of the most beautiful vines 
known for cool conservatories or rooms, is an 
evergreen continuing in bloom a greater part of the 
year, leaves ovate-acuminate, two inches long, the 
stem green and slender. The flowers are three 
inches long, tube-shaped, of deep rose color out- 
side, delicately marbled with a lighter and darker 
rovse within. It is best propagated by divisions of 
the roots or by seeds, as cuttings make weak, short- 
lived plants. It does best in sandy peat, well drain- 
ed, kept moist, and at a low temperature. 

Laurestinus, a free-growing, free-blooming, ever- 
green shrub, with small white flowers in large flat- 
tened panicles, blooming from February to May. 
They should be grow n m large pots and watered 
plentifully. 



ADDITIONAL LIST OF PLANTS. 



Lophospernum, are elegant climbers, with beauti- 
ful foxglove-like flowers of a red or rosy carmine, 
very effective for conservatory decoration, and may 
be used for hanging baskets. 

Lysimachia Nummidaria, or Money-wort, is admir- 
ably adapted to drooping around the edges of vases 
or hanging baskets, its graceful sprays often falling 
four feet, which in June are covered with bright 
yellow flowers. It grows best in partial shade. 

Muhlenbeckia complex a, a beautiful trailing plant 
for hanging baskets, flowers very small, succeeded 
by a pure white fruit appearing much like a flower. 
The long wiry branches of symmetrical growth are 
produced in great abundance. It endures the dry- 
ness and changing atmosphere of dwellings. 

Nerine Undtdata, a very pretty bulbous plant, 
bearing umbels of flowers of a rosy, lilac color, the 
petals beautifully undulated or crisped on the edges, 
and of a glistening appearance. Blooms in Octo- 
ber and November. They may be planted the last 
of August, three in a quart pot, in a soil of two- 
thirds sandy loam and one-third well rotted man- 
ure. When the leaves die off the pot should be 
turned on its side and remain without watering till 
the season for repotting comes. 

Nierembergia Gracilis, a delicate, slender plant, 
bearing an abundance of whitish flowers, tinged 
with blue or lilac ; blooms the entire summer, and is 
fine for hanging baskets or vases. 

Nierembergia Riviriaris, an herbacious perren- 



ADDITIONAL LIST OF PLANTS. 



nial; of creeping habit, flowers pure white, with 
yellow disc ; fine for hanging baskets. 

Ornithogalmn Aureum, one of the finest bulbs 
for the green-house ; flower stem six or eight inches 
high, the flowers of a deep golden yellow, having a 
varnished appearance and lasting a long time. 

Othonna crassifolia, a suculent plant excellently 
adapted for hanging baskets or vases, somewhat re- 
sembling some varieties of Sedums, endures the 
dry air of living-rooms, flower yellow. 

Panicitm Variegatum, a variegated grass of creep- 
ing habit, valuable for baskets or vases. Its style 
of growth is peculiarly graceful, the color of its 
leaves dark green, white and rose. It attains a 
diameter of two feet in a few month's growth. It 
grows best in partial shade, though it requires 
plenty of heat. 

Pilea Serpyllifolia, (Artillery Plant) leaves grace- 
ful, frond-like, always in flower which produce a 
snapping sound when water is thrown on them. 

Pittosporum, an old fashioned plant prized for its 
fragrance rather than beauty of flower or foliage. 
Blooms from February to May, and thrives with 
very little sun. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





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